Dauntless Drivetrain Change

 

After several attempts of measuring, bending, cutting, grinding, spot welding,  then deciding I didn't like it . .   I ripped it out,  started over, and tried again.     Making compound bends is not easy. haha

 

In the final design,  I used the 1/8" thick cross piece, as always planned,  but added a .09 side leg,  Then attached some sheet metal to that.

    I had to cut the cross piece in half.  This was the only way I could get the welded the tool box floor past the transfer case.

 

Spot welded test fit.

 

 

 

Still need to do some "trim" pieces around the outsides,  finish welding,  and make a seat "perch".  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One thing that I noticed in yours and Millennium Falcon's build is that neither of you had to modify the floor other than where the shift cover was.   As seen above,  I had to cut out the floor behind that.

 

It had me wondering what the difference was?   One definite reason:

 

1) in measuring today,  the Dana 300 is "taller" than Dana 18/20 . .  approx. 1"  . .  this is measuring from centerline of output shaft to top of mounting flange.

 

And a possibility?:

 

2) is mine stuffed higher?   The lowest point of transmission case (at the drain plug) is a little less than 3" below the frame rails.   This was as high as I felt comfortable,  without risking other issues.  It put my custom crossmember about 3/4" higher than stock.

Hope to continue the top cover soon  . .  (the even more complicated jigsaw puzzle). 

 

Today I started on the floor and tranny cover . . forward of the transfer case.   Reminder that I cut out the floor to dimensions of M38,  which gives a bunch of access to drive train from the top if needed.

As Ol'Unreliable said a few months ago ->  Jigsaw puzzle time!   

I must have started and stopped a dozen times,  but this is the beginnings of the design I think I am going with.  Some of the front is spot welded up,  and the rear is mocked up with some pieces held together with magnets.

A wider view after tacking up the rear . .  basically building from outside in  . .   and inside out  . . filling in between.     I have rudimentary skills,  but hopefully it will turn out looking decent.     

I am hoping to make it look somewhat like the factory would have done in M38 if it had a SM420 and D300, stuffed up into the floor.

It will be a five piece cover,  that can be removed fairly easily.

It is always cool to see new guys come to forum.  Especially with your enthusiasm.   Thanks for compliments on Wilson's build.  I am a little humbled compared to some of the high quality builds on this site. 

If you read from beginning to end,  then you saw a lot of indecision and change of direction.  In the end, I went with most of the parts I had collected over the years.  If I was starting totally from scratch I might have done different (not sure what )  but I don't regret how it turned out.  

One thing I would love to be able to click my fingers and try,  (but reverse if I did not like),  would be to change axle gears to maybe 4.10.   I really like the 3.73 when on the open road.  Cruising at 55-60, with the engine just loafing along, is so nice.   But I don't like the big gap between gears.  I think I mentioned in this thread before,  that is unavoidable when going from 7:1 to 1:1 in three shifts. 
I know what 4:10's would feel like on the open road,  because they would be similar to my previous setup with 5:38's and overdrive. (a little too much RPM),  but the gaps might feel a little less severe,  and a lower crawl offroad would be nice!   

Can't wait to meet you also,  hopefully in May,  although that might be doubtful with the way things seem to be going. 

That top is 25+ years old.  Hope I don't jinx anything,  but I am amazed it is still surviving.  

I have had Wilson over 30 years,  back before the days of Internet, and so much available info.   Back then, I knew that "Army" Jeeps had tool holders,  and my ax fit,  so I assumed that is what it was for.     I have used it many times on trails.    

Thank for comments!