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Dauntless Drivetrain Change |
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drm101 
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Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1469 |
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 Posted: 07 Apr. 2020 at 1:49pm |
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Nice Work! It look like a quite a puzzle. You could buy some fancy racing shoes, or some wrestling shoes. Both work well in tight quarters and the ladies are always impressed when you put on your racing shoes to drive your Willys.
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen" The less the Power the More the Force |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 4:21am |
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I have started a few projects in past couple months, looks like it might be time to get some of them moving to completion.
 There is a good chance Wilson and I will be going to OH, for a substitute "Reunion" and "Picnic" in a few weeks.  . . . some off-roading at a park not far from where the Spring Reunion is normally held.Projects started earlier, but not finished: - Tranny tunnel cover - Walck's springs, needs "rebound straps" in front, because I remove a couple leaves - Tire/gascan carrier - Skid plate, original was under-designed, beat up at Rubicon a couple years ago, then again at obstacle course, this past summer, at local "Jeep Jam" - Aluminum radiator that I got a couple years ago, but have not taken time to install. (this one might be a long shot, with all the non-Jeep things going on in life) edit: added skid plate
Edited by JeepFever - 19 May 2020 at 4:29am |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 30 May 2020 at 4:32am |
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Well, I ended up working on the list in reverse order.
 I have not had much time for Jeep wrenching, and decided that a radiator I got 2 years ago needs to go in. (long story that I might share later)Photo of the Griffin aluminum radiator roughed in. It is a tight squeeze, but I think it is going to work.  I had to cut out the stock "tabs" from cross-member, and the bell-crank steering bracket, otherwise the radiator would have been too tall, and hit the hood. I made some new "tabs", allowing the radiator to set lower. The photo above is with the radiator setting on these tabs. (tack-welded for now to test fitment) In this position, it clears the Saginaw steering shaft, battery tray, hood, and of course the fan! Time to finish-weld the brackets in, (tomorrow) |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 660 |
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Posted: 30 May 2020 at 2:02pm |
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Looking good Ron! Nothing like scrambling before a deadline! I'm in the same boat - Grasshopper is all apart. I decided to do the Tracker disk brake conversion before Southington. We'll git-r-done!
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 31 May 2020 at 4:35am |
I agree, nothing like waiting to last minute.  In my defense, I planned to start this weeks ago, but keep getting pulled away.Today was example of same scenario. I start working on Jeep . . my wife announces that she wants to do "yard sale" today. So . . guess who has to get all the tables out of shed, make sign, etc. etc. ? . . then younger son wants to use my table saw for a project, with my help, . . then find out older son's 2 girls are spending the afternoon, and an over-nighter. (love the grandkids, but this leaves no time for Jeeps) Even with all that, I was able to get the new radiator hooked up "temporarily" (I used the old hoses, but not a good fit). Hopefully I can find some in upcoming week. Good news is that nothing leaks, and no matter what I did on test run, I could not get temps to go above 180 deg (the rating of thermostat). (mid-80's ambient). This is with no fan shroud, so I am thinking with a shroud (later), there is no way Wilson will ever get too warm. |
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 660 |
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Posted: 31 May 2020 at 4:48am |
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Just came in from the barn after working on the Jeep since 7:30 this morning and saw your post. Glad your making good progress but "Happy wife = Happy life"! I got the entire 4 wheel disk brake conversion done except for 3 brake lines. I'll finish that up tomorrow then start in on some of the smaller stuff. I'm anxious to see you and Wilson this weekend - just picked up a 71 CJ5 with the dauntless as a drive train donor.
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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Gaffer
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Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 173 |
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Posted: 04 June 2020 at 7:47pm |
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JeepFever,
I was just looking at the new radiator you are installing and noticed the spacer you have on the fan. I noticed it because I have that exact same spacer on my 225. I put mine on because I swaped to an HEI distributor. Looks like you have one too. I was thinking I would try and make one shorter instead of the off the shelf spacer and not push my fan too far forward toward the radiator. When I saw your spacer it got me thinking again... If your fan didn't completely fix the cooling issue. Once you get the radiator in and begin testing it may be worth while if you try the original fan again. It may give you more room between the radiator and fan. If you had a shorter spacer you would pick up even more room. Looking forward to your report on the radiator. |
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-Gaffer
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JeepFever
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Posted: 05 June 2020 at 3:47am |
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I actually thought that having fan closer to radiator was a good thing? (pull more air thru the radiator, less air getting sucked in from the side.
I plan to make a shroud at some point. On this cross-flow, there is a lot of heat exchanger above the fan not being fulling utilized. Even without a shroud though, this radiator seems to have no problems keeping engine cool. We got some weather to make a good test. It has been in 90's past couple days. Driving Wilson at 60 mph, or idling thru woods on trails, or just plain idling, it never got much above 180 degrees (or if it did up to 185 or so, it would shortly drop below 180, the thermostat was not too consistent at times) It would go above 180 when turning engine off, but would drop below 180 immediately after starting. We will be doing some fairly extensive offroading this weekend for further testing results.
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Gaffer
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Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 173 |
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Posted: 05 June 2020 at 2:33pm |
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If there is no interferance then no issue. After I had my spacer on and really flexed up my commando I heard the fan making some slight contact. Keep those in your back pocket if you run into any issues. Really enjoying your build.
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-Gaffer
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AKoller
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Posted: 05 June 2020 at 6:28pm |
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Ron, I don't have a Griffin radiator but the one I have from Summit looks identical to yours. After installing it I ran it for a few months with the belt driven fan and no shroud. I can say I never had any heating issues. The warmest I ever saw it get with that setup was about 195 degrees out on the trail on a near 100 degree day.
I had the same thing going on as you. My fan only covered the bottom 2/3rds of the radiator. So just for an experiment I ordered a 16" electric fan that is rated at 3500 cfm off eBay that is controlled by a temperature switch. The fan kicks on at 185* and off at 175*. This electric fan covers all but the corners of the radiator core. Since installing this setup I've never seen it go over 185* except last fall in Colorado. Heading up Mt. Antero it creeped up to 220*. After looking into it when I got home I found my timing was off by about 7 degrees which I believe was my issue. I wired a LED indicator light in the dash to tell me when the fan is on because I could never hear it kick on going down the road. By doing this I learned that at any speeds greater than about 25 mph the fan never kicks on. I guess I'm forcing enough air through the radiator that the engine never hits 185*. That kind of surprises me because I almost always have my chaff screen on because I think it looks cool.  I figured that the chaff screen would block enough air that the fan would need to run but apparently not.I guess I say all of this for 2 reasons: 1. Gives you another option if you'd like. 2. Installing the electric fan was much easier that making a fan shroud. |
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1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 08 June 2020 at 2:53am |
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Ron, Closer to the fan is good thing until you really start flexing - like you do sometimes!. Motor mounts give a little and regular body mounts give a little (maybe not 2A mounts, however). It is not unheard of for the fan to hit the radiator and chew a hole in it (going through water will sometimes deflect a fan a fair amount. Since an electric fan is mounted right to the rad, whereas a mechanical fan is mounted to the engine, the electric fan can sit real close.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 08 June 2020 at 5:29am |
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The fan is about 1" away at nearest point. This past weekend, there was no contact, and we probably flexed as much as we will ever do
(also, I never plan to go into water, up to fan  )An electric fan would be a good option for sure, but I want to keep Wilson somewhat stock in "appearance", and electric fan "sound" takes it beyond that. Purely a subjective thing.I am happy with performance of new radiator this past weekend of whe. Ambient temps were only in 70's, but Wilson was rarely above 180 all day (not counting when engine was turned off) . . in the times it did go up to 190 or so, it came back down to 180 or less, relatively quickly. It think it might actually be fun to build a shroud, at least at top of radiator. This should help quite a bit, when ambient temps get higher. Edited by JeepFever - 08 June 2020 at 5:46am |
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Beach Bum
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Posted: 09 June 2020 at 5:26am |
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The fan works best if the tips of the blades line up with the shroud rear edge. Half in half out. I know, it doesn't quite seem right but in fact it is. Fan blades closer to the radiator just ain't better. That said, if you are not going to use a shroud then all bets are off.
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Rick G
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Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Posted: 09 June 2020 at 4:28pm |
Exactly right👍🏼 Electric fans are another story, however.
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JeepFever
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Posted: 11 June 2020 at 8:05pm |
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Around the campfire at Southington I was asked "What's next for Wilson?" Southington forced a couple immediate "nexts" 1) the frame-mounted pivot stud for the clutch torque-tube broke  As you can see it was a time bomb just waiting. In another thread, Akoller suggested a roller chain setup, so I ordered one. Should be here soon. 2) In a dumb move, I damaged the flip-out windshield . . . broke the glass, and bent the frame. Thankfully, the frame was easily straightened on a press, and I picked up the replacement glass panel this morning from local glass shop. edit: windshield is fixed, it was a little tedious getting the old glass panel out of frame, and new one in. The seals were holding on tight, even with some lube. Beyond that, are some intermediate tasks, I need to finish: - radiator and shroud - tranny tunnel cover - rubber boot at Saginaw steering shaft is shot - license plate bracket for tire carrier - Finish installation of new springs - rebound straps - need angled shims on rear, to get pinion lined up with driveshaft Of course the question of "what's next" really was inquiring about longer term upgrades, and I really did not have any thoughts at that moment. BUT . . every time we go on a challenging adventure like recently, I start thinking about upgrades. Southington got me thinking about a few of those "possible upgrades" 1) fuel delivery . . when trying to climb one of the rock walls, at about the steepest point, the engine stalled out. I remember thinking, "how did I let that happen", but in reality, I don't think it was my fault, but that we reached the limit of carburetor. It would not re-fire, and I had to be winched off. I was cranking the starter in gear to help the winch. When the nose dropped down some, the engine started popping, then fired up with a plume of black smoke out the exhaust. Time for the 2150 conversion? haha . . I actually plan to wait to see what Brian does with Elmo, if they go with fuel injection (that I can duplicate), might go that route. 2) gears . . when going across the rock pile by camp. Waddle and JPet made it look easy with 2 lockers and 100:1 gearing. I made it across, but was on the brake a lot trying to slow down, or worse -> using clutch. 69:1 is too fast in that situation. I have been toying with idea of going from 3:73 to 4:10 in axles. I know that is not much difference, but would help, and still not be too much engine rpm going 60 mph. 3) locker . . I really like the limited-slip TrueTrac for 98% of Wilson's use, but it can get in trouble on rock piles. I was thinking about trying something different, but then got the suggestion of cutting brakes. I might have to give that a try. Just when I thought I was getting close to being "done" with Wilson. Edited by JeepFever - 27 June 2020 at 5:06am |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 27 June 2020 at 5:21am |
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To fix the clutch linkage . . instead of just replacing the broken torque tube stud, I decided to go with the AA roller chain conversion . . unfortunately it was not a simple bolt-in . . details here -> https://www.thecj2apage.com/FORUMS/topic47301.html
An unknown issue became apparent during the clutch linkage install - > both motor mounts were shot - > https://www.thecj2apage.com/FORUMS/topic47375.html Both of these issues have been taken care of in past few days. Replaced the rubber boot on the steering shaft today. The old one had deteriorated to nothing. This is the boot that covers the joint at the steering box. It was not fun. Makes me wonder if there was an easier way to replace it.
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Barry S
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 660 |
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Posted: 27 June 2020 at 3:48pm |
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Wow! That pivot stud breaking seems to have gone from "no big deal" to opening a giant can of worms! In a way though, it's good because your discovering them at home instead of on a faraway trail. Your'e doing a great job working through the challenges. Nice job on the clutch and engine mounts. Thanks for sharing!
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1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729 194? CJ2A 04893/194304 1946 CJ2A 46745 1946 CJ2A 36723 1945 MB 413665 1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487 |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 28 June 2020 at 4:30am |
So true . . when I first realized why the clutch was not working, I thought it would be easy fix -> replace the stud . . but things got crazy after that. I am happy with how everything turned out so far, even though it all took way more time than expected. I will be watching your build thread, to see what you do with clutch linkage and motor mounts.
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Barry S wrote: