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Dave's Kubota swap

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Sammamishcj2a View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 Feb. 2017 at 1:37am
Like many people here I can't seem to stop tweaking the '47. I spent most of my time returning it to more a stock form and rust elimination...teaching myself to weld in the process.
Old Willys was a Washington vehicle and so there was very little rust for the abuse it had received over the years. It came with a L134 engine that ran pretty good. I just noticed a few weeks ago that it had a Ford MB head. The "F" was hiding under the oil filter bracket. It did run a little hot but that was addressed with a new radiator and I was happy until last summer when I saw V2203 for sale on Craigslist...😊
I got the v2203 for a great price $200 knowing that it was a big risk as it was not running but to be honest I love the challenge. Long story short, I bored out +.5MM and rebuilt the engine (new used crankshaft, pistons, rings connecting rod etc)and learned a ton abot Kubota diesels in the process. Total cost was under $1400. Buying a used v2203 might be cheaper but I know that it is now super solid "new" engine that should run for many...many years. I didn't want to pull the L134 until I got the Kubota running.

The weather was finally warm enough and I had some free time and so I took advantage of the long weekend.

I pulled the running L134 to start the prep for the v2203. I'm just waiting on a F134 bell housing. I have a Audi turbo I got off of a Craigslist for $100 and plan to run a intercooler. Pictures to follow...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb. 2017 at 10:36pm
Looking forward to the pictures! ClapSmile
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb. 2017 at 1:35am
Sounds like fun, I don't think you can beat a Kubota engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 2:37am
Sorry about the delay...I came down with the flu just after posting.

I'd like to start off by thanking the people on this forum for the inspiration and all the great posts. My goal with my posts is to fill in a gaps.

Finding the Kubota v2203:
I have spent the past 6 months casually looking at craigslist for a v2203. One popped up about an hour and a half away from me. The seller was given the motor by his work as it was pulled from a loader that had an engine swap.
The only thing he knew about the engine was that the owner of the loader didn’t change the air filter and that dirt/soil got into the intake. That is obviously not a good sign. He partially disassembled it but got stuck on the large nut on the pulley. I obviously couldn’t see it running. He made it evident that he basically wanted it out of his garage. I bought it took it home and started the disassembly.

Before doing that I needed a service manual:
http://www.utcccs-cdn.com/hvac/docs/2000/Public/02/62-10865.pdf

That's where things got a little scary.


Edited by Sammamishcj2a - 06 Mar. 2017 at 5:49am
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My initial observation is that the engine condition is that it is a bit warn but not damaged. I do not see any crosshatching on the cylinder and I did an old trick of filling the cylinder with a little WD40 and it drained through. It also looked like the engine sat as there were ring marks on the cylinder. The valves on the head looked in really good shape.

It needed a new crankshaft and connecting rod and all new pistons and rings. I bought a rebuild kit from Kumar Bros
http://www.kumarbrosusa.com/kubota/kubota-parts.html
The new used crankshaft off of ebay.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 3:01am
Next big challenge was finding a machine shop. I had no clue that most machines shops refuse to work on diesels. The Kubota dealer was absolutely no help.

The best advice I received was from:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/

Eventually I lucked out and found a shop in Seattle called Cam Grinders that would do the work. Their site said small jobs accepted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 3:20am
I reassembled everything with the Kumar Bros instruction manual and cross-referenced the Carrier manual linked above.

I ordered Greg's Overland Diesel adaptor kit and setup a test bed for the engine. I hacked things together with a apple cider jug full of diesel and she fired right up. I ran into the house super excited and told my wife and kids. They thought that I was crazy.

Time to pull the L134.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2017 at 4:33am
Pulling the Flathead was pretty easy.
Pull the grill, and one fender, then drain the radiator and coolant from the block.

I used 2 straps, one on the front the other between the bell housing and the the oil pan skid plate. I unbolted the bell housing from the block with hoist attached. I double checked that everything was free and out she came?

Edited by Sammamishcj2a - 27 Mar. 2017 at 1:57am
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Removal of the bell housing from the transmission was a bit more difficult. There's not much room the remove the driver side top bolt. I did it the hard way 1/8 turn at a time with a crescent wrench.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2017 at 5:02am
You will need a F134 bell housing. I won one on eBay. Power washed it, scrubbed it down and gave it a coat of black paint. Here's a trial fit:
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Time to remove the old engine mounts and clean things a bit.
The mounts were tougher than I thought to remove. They were riveted and welded in place. I ended up using a angle grinder to cut the heads off the rivets and then punched them through and then carefully cut the welds. A bunch of banging with a BFH and two crowbars and in a few hours they came out. I also had a second battery mount to remove.
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I took advantage of the situation to clean and I rolled the jeep outside and then cleaned everything out with simple green and a power washer. There was caked in dirt and grease within the frame next to the steering box that must have been there for years.



Edited by Sammamishcj2a - 06 Mar. 2017 at 5:34am
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Now you need room for the larger bell housing. Greg's instruction suggests either hammering it out or cutting. I decided that hammering would be easier and if I was careful I could make it look good. You only need a inch or so on the top right facing towards the cab. The dent is above the gas pedal within the cab.
Installing the bolts in the new bell housing was a bit easier as I was smarter. That forth bolt that was a PIA to remove was easily installed by lowering the transmission with a jack just a little bit to allow a ratchet with a long extension to reach it.

This is how high you must hammer in within the engine bay. The original michigan yellow clearly shows where I hammered.


Edited by Sammamishcj2a - 31 Mar. 2017 at 5:36am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 5:22am
Once you weld in the new engine mount brackets you will need to trim the bolt on the mount so that it is easier to clear them. I also slightly jacked up the bell housing to ease the angle.

I also installed a filter and ran my fuel lines. I ran the return line through a rubber grommet in the firewall under the dash to the tank in a clear vinyl line. I'm not sure if I'll leave it this way

I then had to fabricate a battery tray. I probably took too long in doing this and went through a few design ideas. I ended up creating the final one out of angle iron and welded it to part of the old willys tray that remained and created a new mount on the rear as it was integrated into the old flathead engine mount that was removed.

Here's what everyone wants to see. https://youtu.be/fJ25SI5P11Y

It lives.

Next thing to do is the throttle pedal and some kind of throttle assembly. Then on to the turbo...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2017 at 2:48pm
Looking good! You are making great progress. SmileClap
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
2003 Cadillac Seville
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JakeJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2017 at 3:55pm
That looks awesome! You are going to love it. I have had my Kubota for a few years and absolutely love driving it. Have you installed the turbo yet?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammamishcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2017 at 10:24pm
I had a tough time with installing the new accelerator pedal. It took me a few trys and a bit of thinking to figue things out.
The problem was that the end of the accelerator arm would hit the bell housing. Moving it up or down didn't seem to matter. I hacked up the firewall and had to cut out and build and replace the sheet metal.
I asked Greg for more reference pictures and was still confused. That night I went to bed and it came to me. Remember how I hammered out the firewall instead of cutting? This changed the angle of the gass pedal section of the firewall.


Edited by Sammamishcj2a - 27 Apr. 2017 at 5:30am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2017 at 11:00pm
I also had a bit of a tough time locating the throttle pedal. I put some extra rubber spacers under the front body mounts and that helped. Moving it down a bit also helped. Mine hit the bell housing in the original location that I cut the hole. Later on, I switched to later model brake and clutch pedals to gain a bit more room too.
I thought I had documented my troubles with the throttle pedal in my build thread but I didn't....sorry about that...might have saved you some trouble...:(
 
Your build is looking good though!
 
 


Edited by Lemield - 26 Apr. 2017 at 11:08pm
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
2003 Cadillac Seville
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