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DJG's 1947 CJ-2A NA Kubota Diesel Swap Build!

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RustyAutoholicGuy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 3:23pm
Originally posted by Lemield Lemield wrote:

It is quite amazing to me where these little Jeeps will fit in a garage.....and it's even easier with those dollies....:)

The dollies have bee a live saver! I love those things! Anyway for some updates! I've changed the direction of this build slightly, not by much, but I will be doing the following to the CJ-2A now!

  • V1903 Kubota Swap 
  • Add Turbo Setup for the V1903 (Still trying to sell stuff to get the funds for this)
  • Rebuild the T-90 
  • Find a 30% overdrive
  • Replace all the wiring
  • Replace Suspension (Considering a 1.5" lift to accomidate slightly taller tires)
  • All new Fuel Lines
  • LED Headlights and Taillights
  • Disc Brakes all the way around
  • Replacing the front Dana 25 with a Dana 27
  • Replacing the rear Dana 41 with a Dana 44
  • Install locker in Dana 44
  • Look for possible locker for the Dana 27 (I can dream)
  • Find more comfortable seats
  • Install roll cage
  • Install seat belts
  • Replace all the gauges 
  • Fix all the slop in the steering
  • Paint the CJ-2A
I've been putting a ton of miles on my 06 Jeep Liberty CRD, and it's climbing up in miles fast, so I've decided to help reduce the maintenance cost on the CRD, I want to build the CJ-2A to be able to do all my driving needs except for interstate driving, I'll use the Liberty for that. But for running all my quick errands, or going to see family, etc, I want to drive the CJ-2A. 

I found a deal for a set of Dana 27/44 axles that have 4.11 gears in them, which will help keep the engine RPMs lower for the V1903, and I want to get a 30% overdrive so I can cruise at 55mph with the V1903 and not be revs the heck out of the engine. I do plan on wheeling the CJ-2A, I never plan on doing anything too hardcore (Yes I know it's Jeep, and that will change, it's just a Jeep thing), I know I'm on the smaller end of the 03 engine series, but I'm hoping with the turbo setup on the V1903, I can cruise to 60mph and use overdrive to keep the RPMs down. 

If anyone has any knowledge on how much the overdrives reduce RPMs, could you point me to it? I've done some searches and the results have been very confusing to me, I know third gear on the T-90 is a 1:1, so I'm trying to figure out what the overdrive would would do so I can calculate my RPM speed with my current tire setup and gear ratios in the axles. 

I'm hoping to start removing the engine, transmission, and transfer case this weekend/next week!

Thanks
DJG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 3:28pm
DJG
When I was looking at different options for my rig, a bunch of really smart people came to my rescue with all kinds of charts and info. Check it out on this thread.
 
 
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

DJG
When I was looking at different options for my rig, a bunch of really smart people came to my rescue with all kinds of charts and info. Check it out on this thread.
 
 

Thank you smfulle! I'll be reading through that thread here in a little while!!!

-DJG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 3:39pm
My goals were a little different than yours, but I think you can take the info and make good use of it. I was going for lower crawl ratio, keeping stock power plant, and having more gearing options for road and trail as provided by the overdrive.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2016 at 3:47pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

My goals were a little different than yours, but I think you can take the info and make good use of it. I was going for lower crawl ratio, keeping stock power plant, and having more gearing options for road and trail as provided by the overdrive.

Yeah I'm beginning to see that, so yeah all that information is going to be helpful! Great looking CJ2A btw and again thank you for pointing me in the right direction for all that information!

-DJG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2016 at 7:12pm
Hey Jeepers,

Started my disassembly of my CJ2A over the weekend, didn't get as far as I liked, a surprising amount of broken bolts because of rust (yeah I should have figured that). Here are some quick pictures:


Before I touched anything:


Afterwards:


And a close up of the hood and parts taken off. I knew the paint on the hood was bad, but I had no idea how bad, I literally peeled off the driver side of the hood paint by hand, it looks like there was no primer, so I will be fixing that since I plan on changing the color of the CJ2A anyway. 



Also I've been ordering and searching for some new parts for this build. I think I have a set of axles lined up for the CJ2A, I will be changing the gearing to 4.11 vs the 5.38, and I also ordered a complete wiring harness online as well, because my harness has been hacked already and it's very brittle so I figured a new harness would make the entire CJ2A more reliable by replacing it. 

Thanks!
DJG


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 2:49am
4.10 will be too high with a 30% overdrive if thats what you still have planned. 4.56 would be much better imho. Maybe even 4.88. All depends on if you want to do offroad or not,and how big of tires you want. 4.56 with stock tires wouldnbe good, 4.88 with 31" tires would give a good cruise. With your smaller engine, you will likly need either an intercooler or be sokehwat conservative with the fueling even with the 4.56.   Up long steep hills, my v2203 will max out the egt in OD with stock gearing and stock tires. This is with no intercooler and proba ly not perfect injection timing.

Just my two cents. I still owe the calculation spreadsheet, but here is another good site. http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/speed.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 2:58am
If you play around a bit with that site, a max speed of 65 at 2800 rpm would be a good starting point. The kubota likes 2200-2400 cruise in my opinion. If you can hit 55-60 in that rpm range, you will be at the peak power and fuel econ spot. 65 would be the max you would ever want to go I think. That is, unless you are really going for all out performance with an intercooler and not so conservative egts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2016 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by pjensen641 pjensen641 wrote:

4.10 will be too high with a 30% overdrive if thats what you still have planned. 4.56 would be much better imho. Maybe even 4.88. All depends on if you want to do offroad or not,and how big of tires you want. 4.56 with stock tires wouldnbe good, 4.88 with 31" tires would give a good cruise. With your smaller engine, you will likly need either an intercooler or be sokehwat conservative with the fueling even with the 4.56.   Up long steep hills, my v2203 will max out the egt in OD with stock gearing and stock tires. This is with no intercooler and proba ly not perfect injection timing.

Just my two cents. I still owe the calculation spreadsheet, but here is another good site. http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/speed.html

Originally posted by pjensen641 pjensen641 wrote:

If you play around a bit with that site, a max speed of 65 at 2800 rpm would be a good starting point. The kubota likes 2200-2400 cruise in my opinion. If you can hit 55-60 in that rpm range, you will be at the peak power and fuel econ spot. 65 would be the max you would ever want to go I think. That is, unless you are really going for all out performance with an intercooler and not so conservative egts.

Hey pjensen641,

Thank you for all the information and the website! Both are extremely helpful since I'm still in the early stages of this build! 

Yeah I've been playing around with the numbers, and oddly enough if I keep the tire size I have, 235/75r15, on the CJ2A now, go with 4.10 gears and a 25% overdrive, I can cruise at 55mph at 2030rpm with 3rd gear Overdrive. The only down side is I would have to use overdrive to go between gears, but that doesn't seem to be a huge problem I don't think since my engine isn't going to be a HP/torque monster or anything. 

I don't plan on this CJ2A to be an all conquering off-road rig, mostly I just want to go around my grandfather's farm and my own property, mostly dirt roads and fields, nothing challenging. I really don't want to add a roll cage to this CJ2A, so I want to keep it rather simple and more recreational honestly. 

I am planning on going with an intercooler setup, just found out I might be getting a turbo setup from a friend that abandoned a build it he was doing, not sure yet what the turbo is, but it's free so I'm not complaining yet. 

Let me know if I've gotten anything about the gearing and cruising wrong!

Thanks
DJG


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2016 at 8:02pm
Looks like your numbers are correct.  I think the 25% OD is better in your case.  You will likley end up having to downshift to Direct up hills.  Since the OD isnt so tall, you wont be quite as far down on top speed when you pull back to DIR.  Looks like you would be able to wind it up to 2750 RPM and maintain 55mph in Direct.  That makes a good hill pulling gear.

As far as using Overdrive between gears, I do it all the time.  The T90C makes 2nd to 3rd shift difficult without splitting gears.  I normally accelerate in 2nd OD, clutch in-pull OD to neutral-shift trans to 3rd-pull OD back to DIR.  That save the OD syncros from having to downshift and match a huge speed differential.  When downshifting, I coast way down and double clutch the OD to get back to direct drive.




Edited by pjensen641 - 26 May 2016 at 8:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daniel_Buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2016 at 9:31pm
I've just put on over 2500 miles on my Kubota Willys in the past few days driving to North Carolina.   2200rpm at 55mph is a VERY comfortable rpm and speed.   Plenty of rpm left to hit 60 or 65 easily. Though I mostly keep it at 55.

I have 4.10 gears, no overdrive, and 33" tires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2016 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by pjensen641 pjensen641 wrote:

Looks like your numbers are correct.  I think the 25% OD is better in your case.  You will likley end up having to downshift to Direct up hills.  Since the OD isnt so tall, you wont be quite as far down on top speed when you pull back to DIR.  Looks like you would be able to wind it up to 2750 RPM and maintain 55mph in Direct.  That makes a good hill pulling gear.

As far as using Overdrive between gears, I do it all the time.  The T90C makes 2nd to 3rd shift difficult without splitting gears.  I normally accelerate in 2nd OD, clutch in-pull OD to neutral-shift trans to 3rd-pull OD back to DIR.  That save the OD syncros from having to downshift and match a huge speed differential.  When downshifting, I coast way down and double clutch the OD to get back to direct drive.

Thanks pjensen641!

That information has been fantastic! I also just found your thread where you posted all your data/findings on turbos and what would be good to run. Trying to get through all of it now, I have a friend that is supposedly giving me a turbo he never used, not sure what it is yet, so I'm not sure I can even use it, but I'm trying to find that information out. 

What do you think the max boost pressure is we can run on this 03 series diesel engines? I know I'm going to have about 35hp and just around 90ish ft/lb of torque, I'm hoping to get a turbo installed that will put me closer to 50hp and hopefully over 120 ft/lb of torque, which I realize I might be asking for a lot here, I still haven't been able to figure out how much turbo's normally add to the these 03 Diesel Engines so it's a bit confusing. 

Originally posted by Daniel_Buck Daniel_Buck wrote:

I've just put on over 2500 miles on my Kubota Willys in the past few days driving to North Carolina.   2200rpm at 55mph is a VERY comfortable rpm and speed.   Plenty of rpm left to hit 60 or 65 easily. Though I mostly keep it at 55.

I have 4.10 gears, no overdrive, and 33" tires.

Daniel,

I glad to hear you made to NC and it went so well! I've been looking forward to hearing how your trip went! Did you ever try calculating your MPG btw? I've been curious to see what kind of mileage you've been getting in your Jeep!

How are the shift points between gears? I'm worried about trying to run 33" tires without an OD with my V1903 since I'm on the low end of power, I was thinking spend the money on the OD to help out my V1903 as much as possible. 

Did you take any photos of your trip as you went?

-DJG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2016 at 8:01pm
My calculations for the 2203 showed about 70 HP and 170 lbf with about 14.5 PSI of boost.  The 1903 should make 60HP and 140 ftlb with similar boost.  I have heard of some people running 20-25 lbs of boost, but that was intercooled.  Keep in mind, the higher the boost, the hotter you will heat the air.

Using my spreadsheet, you will need 8.75 lb/min of air (or 0.05 m^3/s or 3 m^3/s for metric units).  That is how turbos are sized, by mas air flow.  You'll want to find a compressor map and make sure that 8.75 lb/min is at the upper end of the peak efficiency.  That is going to be a tiny little sucker!  The other data point you will need to read a compressor map is the pressure ratio.  This is a number that defines the boost in multiples of atmospheric pressure.  Atmospheric pressure  is ~14.5 psi above absolute vaccum.  Therefore 14.5 Psi of boost is 14.5 psi atmospheric plus 14.5 or 29 psi, a factor of 2 times atmospheric.

I think an IHI RHF3 for a V2003T would be a good size.  The Garett GT1544 would be a little too big, and you would likely get some turbo lag.  You might look for a primary turbo from a sequential system or something.  

If you find a data plate on the one you were given, post it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2016 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by pjensen641 pjensen641 wrote:

My calculations for the 2203 showed about 70 HP and 170 lbf with about 14.5 PSI of boost.  The 1903 should make 60HP and 140 ftlb with similar boost.  I have heard of some people running 20-25 lbs of boost, but that was intercooled.  Keep in mind, the higher the boost, the hotter you will heat the air.

Using my spreadsheet, you will need 8.75 lb/min of air (or 0.05 m^3/s or 3 m^3/s for metric units).  That is how turbos are sized, by mas air flow.  You'll want to find a compressor map and make sure that 8.75 lb/min is at the upper end of the peak efficiency.  That is going to be a tiny little sucker!  The other data point you will need to read a compressor map is the pressure ratio.  This is a number that defines the boost in multiples of atmospheric pressure.  Atmospheric pressure  is ~14.5 psi above absolute vaccum.  Therefore 14.5 Psi of boost is 14.5 psi atmospheric plus 14.5 or 29 psi, a factor of 2 times atmospheric.

I think an IHI RHF3 for a V2003T would be a good size.  The Garett GT1544 would be a little too big, and you would likely get some turbo lag.  You might look for a primary turbo from a sequential system or something.  

If you find a data plate on the one you were given, post it up.

Hey pjensen641

Thank you so much for the information! I'm planning on running about 15lbs of boost with an intercooler setup on my rig as well! 

So just a general update! I haven't been taken pictures but I got the front end basically taken apart. I got the fenders, grill, and hood all off. I also got the engine out. This was the simplest engine removal I have ever done, I did it by myself in about 3 hours while taking breaks as well. 

Also I had a heck of a time getting the front grill off, that turned out to be a much bigger chore than I was expecting, I ended up having to drill out the driver side support bolt to remove the grill. 

I will post more pictures and updates this week as I get more time to work on the CJ2a!

Thanks
DJG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2016 at 3:22pm
Hey Jeepers!

It's been a while but I wanted to post a couple of updates! I don't have photos at this time but I'm going to have some soon! I've had some personal life crap that has taken up way too much of my time the last two months but I'm finally getting it all wrapped up this week and next and I can go back to working on my CJ2A!

The engine has been removed, and the entire front end has been disassembled. Also I've gotten a new set of axles for the front and rear with 4.10 gears, a turbo for the V1903, and a whole slew of parts like new clutch, parts to convert the rear axle to disc brakes, and I'm putting in a locker into the rear end of the CJ2A as well. 

I've also started taking out all the current wiring and gauges and I've started work on all the paint on the body as well!

I'll post more updates soon!

Thanks
DJG47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2016 at 4:16pm
Hey Flatties!!!

So this is going to be a bit of huge image dump but I'm finally making some progress on my CJ2A. 

Been working on removing all the electrical and removing bad paint and applying primer!







I wasn't sure on the color  so I decided to try two different colors on each side. I made a mistake with going with a black primer though so when I tried painting it with a Camo Sand color but I did not like the results after two coats of paint! While it looks okay in this picture, it looked really white and I just didn't like the way it looked:



So on the other side I tried a Rustoleum Hammered Copper color that has some small metallic flakes in it and I really liked how it came out. 



First coat on the hood of the Hammered Copper 





Currently still working on getting the rest of the CJ2A primed and ready for paint. I've removed all the electrical at this point. I'm going to be removing the T-90 Transmission and Dana 18 transfer case in the next two weeks so I can start rebuilding both of those units. 





I was hoping to be further along in this project than I currently am but life always seems to throw curveballs at me! I'm still Jeeping forward and hope to get all the paint done this month and then I can focus on getting the T-90 rebuilt and getting my V1903 installed in the CJ2A!

Thanks
DJG47


Edited by DieselJeepGuy47 - 04 Oct. 2016 at 4:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RustyAutoholicGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2018 at 7:52pm
Wow it's been a long time since I've worked on my CJ-2A! First off my kids have named her Peggy, all my Jeeps have names, so she has been designated Peggy! 

This entire project has slammed to a halt because of a divorce and custody battle that is finally almost over, and several renovations and projects finished on the house, specifically my kids now have bed rooms in what was the garage in all the previous pictures. 

However now it continues!!!! So my major design at this point is do I still with the T90 manual transmission or do I go with a Chevrolet TH350 automatic transmission. Two factors are determining this point, first is the fact that I'm not the best at clutching off-road, and I prefer to do slow low gear obstacles. 

Second since I started this project I had gotten my CJ-5 working which I have been using to wheel with my family. I've also acquired a 2006 Wrangler with an automatic transmission which my wife and kids all prefer to go wheeling with me in because I can can left foot brake reducing the jerking and rollback on takeoff. 

So I'm trying to decided right now if I should go with a TH350 vs sticking with the original T90. I'm leaning more towards a TH350 because I can put in a manual valve body and I've read I should be able to still use the overdrive with the automatic transmission so I should be able to cruise highway speed if I so desire, but I think for my what I like to do off-road, the TH350 should work well. 

Any and all opinions are welcome! 

Thanks
Grant
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2018 at 5:10am
Sorry to hear to about the bumps in your road. Getting the kids a bedroom was probably a good call! I'm putting a TH350 in my Kubota powered CJ3A, but it will be a big hassle. I'm starting from the ground up, so I had options, like placing the axles a little further apart and moving the grill.
As I'm sure you are aware, the biggest obstacles to swapping the 350 are length and the oil pan. I addressed the length issue (I hope!), by moving the axles, tucking a Civic radiator into the grill, and moving the engine forward. The 03 Kubotas have tapped holes all along there sides, so it's not that tough to make motor mounts that mount further back on the engine and yet the same place on the frame.
Avoiding the oil pan may be trickier. I'm running the Dana 300 transfer case. My Novack adapter allows the case to be clocked. I will likely have to clock the case down to get under the 350's oil pan. The added advantage for the D18 would be clocking the transfer case down would allow a much better angle on your rear driveshaft. My centered rear output and centered rear axle does not benefit from clocking.
It certainly can be done, but it ain't gonna be no bolt-in!
Good Luck.
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