Drip, Drip, Drip |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1483 |
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Posted: 09 Apr. 2018 at 1:24am |
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I had a nice day with the Jeep. I hitched up the M416, returned some parts to AutoZone and went to Home Depot for a few bags of lawn fertilizer. I had to mow the lawn already.
I just looked under her and found a nice puddle of GL1. This is new and it is coming out fairly decently. Damn. It appears to be coming from the parking brake drum. So, I'm assuming it is the transmission main shaft oil seal. So, how much of a PIA is this to fix? Special tools? Hints & tips? Garbage parts to watch out for? Part number? Anyone want to come over and do it for me Ha. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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I haven’t even done my own yet!
So I’ll pass on doing yours... good one though
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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GL1 from the parking brake drum? Transmission main shaft? IMO it's more likely to be the transfer case rear output seal or yoke, or both. If the yoke surface is grooved or pitted these will leak. Many folk have had success sleeving these with a speedi sleeve. I haven't done this myself with the transfer case in the vehicle but I don't see why you shouldn't be able to remove the parking brake drum (you would need to do this anyway to clean it up), pull the yoke, and inspect the surface and the seal at the same time. Sleeve the yoke and/or replace the seal, put everything back together. PITA? Probably. Hints and tips? Drain the transfer case first. I'll do it for you if you pay my airticket...
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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sgt kohler
Member Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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I did mine on my 46 and it wasn't all that hard to do. you will have to drain the fluid so now would be a good time to change the other gaskets that may be leaking in that area. I actually installed the complete emergency brake drum assembly that had been removed on mine. I found a few good used parts and redid everything. works like a charm and no leaks.
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Drip, Drip, Drip.
Here is a long thread on this topic from last Spring. My recommendations; Replace the seal and the yoke. Use a double lipped seal. Polish the new yoke's seal surface with some 1200+ grit sand paper to make sure it is smooth. Use RTV on the splines and the outer edge of the seal where it mounts to the case. Really Clean the oil off of anything you want RTV to stick too. Put some grease on the rubber part of the seal before you assemble it. If you pull the parking brake - make sure to use thread sealant on the bolts when you reassemble. Lots of opportunity for things to leak. Seal everything. It is not a hard job - just becomes a pain when you have to do it 3 or 4 times because a week later it is drip, drip, dripping again. Stev |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1483 |
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Yeah, I meant the transfer case output shaft.
Stev, I had not thought of the yoke having a grove in it. Probably easiest just to order one and replace it rather than deal with this again. Thanks for the link. It looks like you certainly have experience here. Any tips to getting the yoke off? Do I need an impact wrench or a puller? Thanks, Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Hard to say if you will need a puller or an impact wrench. In my experience they usually come apart with out the need for either. But that all depends on how tightly they where put together by the last guy.
Stev
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Agree with Stev. I took yoke and brake off mine in a campground, in the dark, holding a flashlight in my mouth and using borrowed tools and it came apart ok. I had to hammer and pry on the yoke some to get it out. The torque on the nut is supposed to be something like 220 pounds so it can be tight. Impact wrench can be very handy when they are. Rust and gunk can come into play as well.
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1483 |
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Well, it looks like Ron Fitzpatrick has all the parts and the better double lip seal, plus he is on the west coast. I'm going to give him a call and get everything I possibly need plus an extra seal because I will probably screw one up.
I just looked under her. I'm surprised how much leaked out. She went from nothing to a nice leak in one day. I hope it does not turn into a major pain. I wish the rear main leak had the same prospects for an easy repair. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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dluber
Member Joined: 24 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 817 |
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I agree with Stev, replace the seal and the yoke. I found my yoke to be worn and pitted when I removed it from the jeep. I didn't use and special tool, but I did use a short piece of pipe union and cap to tap the double lipped seal into place.
Edited by dluber - 10 Apr. 2018 at 1:58am |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1483 |
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I like that idea. I was just thinking about what I would use to get that seal in.
For clarification, when referring to the yoke, is this the correct part: I see the service manual referencing the use of a puller to get the drum off. Am I going to have some grief getting the drum off? I know I will need to adjust the shoes in. While I have this thing drained, what other seals can be easily replaced? I have already done the trans shifter housing and the PTO tale off plate. I'm wondering if I should also do the front output shaft seal. Is that a complete can of worms or something easy that I can do at the same time? I think I might have a very small drip here. Nothing like the rear but I'm wondering if it is just going to pop the next day. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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dluber
Member Joined: 24 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 817 |
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I believe that is the correct part, but I ordered from a different source and it was a 116714 CROWN Output Yoke (Rear). If you notice, the 116714 number is also referenced on your source. There is a round paper gasket that goes in before the double lipped seal. I ordered my seal and gasket kit from rfjp.com.
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Tom in RI
Member Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 1124 |
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Instead of a replacement yoke I have used a Speedi Sleeve p/n 99156 to refirb the old yoke. Sealant needs to be put on the cleaned yoke and inside of the sleeve before they are assembled.
My biggest PIA has been removing the old seals. Originals were made super tough! Maybe there is some type of seal removal tool but I drilled a bunch of holes in the old seal to make it weak before pulling it out. There's now oil on the e-brake shoes so take time to clean everything while it's apart. You had good advice on using sealing all the bolts and mating surfaces. For the bolts Permatex #2 works and you can take it apart in the future.
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1483 |
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I ordered all the parts tonight. I got everything to do both ends. I might do the shift rod seals too.
For those that replaced the rear output flange (yoke), did you have any issues with the dimensions of the replacement parts being different than the original? I have seen a couple posts on other sites indicating there was a need for shims. Thanks, Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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I did not have any issues. Yoke fit it the seal and on to the spline, the seal fit into the transfer case.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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The shims are only used for adjustment of end play in the shaft and go between the output cap and the case. You will not be messing with this. No need to worry about them.
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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1947-cj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Sep. 2015 Location: MISSOURI Status: Offline Points: 670 |
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I've always heard if there isn't oil under them there isn't oil in them.
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RICH
1947 cj2a (Toy From Hell) |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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"I've always heard if there isn't oil under them there isn't oil in them."
Actually, you can get them sealed up. If they are well maintained they will not drip. You don't have to live with a mess on the ground.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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