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Early CJ2A engine/GPW engine

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Bruce W View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Feb. 2011 at 12:12am
Thought I'd run this up the pole & see if anyone salutes----
I have an early CJ2A engine(CJ*2A10222), complete, PO says it was running well then picked up a rod knock so he took it out. I got it with the GPW that I bought from him. I would like to trade it for a rebuildable GPW engine.
  I was told over on the G503 that at about the time my GPW was built, Ford was having some trouble producing enough engine blocks, so some GPW's were built with Wilson Foundry (Willys) blocks. The head and all else was Ford. If I don't find a GPW block, I will use this one. Might be a nice change from all the "perfect", numbers matching, all "F" marked GPW's.   BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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lowenuf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2011 at 8:42am
Ford did use some Wilson foundry blocks, but they carried MB serial numbers, ground off, then replaced with Ford numbers...
 
GPW blocks/engines are out there, but commanding big money before rebuilds, if interested, i will shoot a note of someone that i know that has a completely rebuilt GPW engine that may be ready to sell it.....
 
your engine is a very early 45 2A engine, delivered in a 45 serial numbered around 10200...
 
my 45 #10163 has it's original engine, and it is #10170.....
45 #10163 ACM #188
45 #10749 ACM #951 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 F/R, D-20 twin stick
46 Bantam T3-C #8117
72 C10 Fleetside 355ci, 700r4, 12-bolt w/3:73's


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sean View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2011 at 10:40am
Bruce:

I would like to get all the casting details from that engine.  Will be sending a PM this morning.
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2011 at 11:53pm
Originally posted by lowenuf lowenuf wrote:

Ford did use some Wilson foundry blocks, but they carried MB serial numbers, ground off, then replaced with Ford numbers...
 
 
 
SmileI wasn't aware of that, and wondered about the advisability of grinding the CJ2A number off or leaving it--- guess I could grind it off & put my GPW ser# on thereWink
 
  I have looked around some, and have found out about GPW blocks bringing large $'s, not to mention that one needs to be quick on the trigger to get one.
  Me buying a rebuilt engine would be akin to a cobbler buying shoes... Thanx for the thought tho, Low.
 
Sean, I've answered your PM, and will get you more info when it warms up a little. (about -8*F out there right now, WC probably about -15)                 BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mullen46cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb. 2011 at 10:41am

PM sent.

Bruce Mullen   Harrisville, WV       

46 CJ2A column shift SOLD 07-15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb. 2011 at 10:53am
Bruce:
Quote Sean, I've answered your PM, and will get you more info when it warms up a little. (about -8*F out there right now, WC probably about -15)
Got it, thank you!  Wait for it to warm up!  I'm not in any rush (it's below zero here too, and I won't even go outside LOL)

If you do decide to grind off the CJ s/n, get a photo first please!

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb. 2011 at 12:23am
I'll get you a foto either way!  BW
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2011 at 4:56pm
Bruce,
 
I have a GPW block that was in my 2a when I got it. It was seized up. It's the one the engine plate I sent you came off of. I took it apart and sent the block to the machine shop. They said it needed to be sleeved. When they did the rough bore on # 4 the cylinder caved in a little at the bottom. A hole about the size of a quarter broke through from the water jacket. As you know, I got a different block and am on my way to getting it put back together.  Question is, is this GPW block I have any good to anyone?  Here's the # GPW259679. Do you think someone would want to try and save it?
 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2011 at 5:05pm
Bruce I have a GPW block with no guts or caps if you have any interest.. That and Stans internals would make a nice motor. It will need a full rebuild.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2011 at 10:34pm
   Stan and F Bill, I PM'd ya both, but, Bill, your mail box is full!   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2011 at 11:49pm
Bruce,
Thought I'd put some photos of the hole in my cylinder here just to see if there were any other opinions on it. Sorry to kind of hyjack your trade thread.
This is from the bottom/crank side.
 
 
Here's how it looks from the top.
 
Machinist thought we could sleeve it, bored it and this hole showed up. He didn't think he could fix it with a sleeve with this much of hole. I just don't want to send a WWII engine block to the scap if there is someone who thinks they could save it. I don't have space to keep it for very long though.
 
Bruce, I'll pm you with some other parts details.
 
Stan


Edited by smfulle - 08 Mar. 2011 at 11:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2011 at 11:59pm
Cry
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar. 2011 at 8:45am
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

... Thought I'd put some photos of the hole in my cylinder here just to see if there were any other opinions on it ...
Search the G503 forums.  The same situation has been encountered by a few over there, and they have been successfully sleeved.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom in RI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2011 at 8:02am
Agreed,
Do not scrap that block.  It is very likely that it can be saved and live on.
Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47goDevil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 5:29am
Tom in Ri,
 tell us the process if you can , of how one would go about that himself if faced with that dilemma . 
  Thanks . 
  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom in RI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 8:23am
Hi 47Go
I'm not a machinest but I have found machine shops that take on these challenges and are successful..  My GPW block was cracked in lots of places and the machinest who does my engines has a sub whose only business is cast iron block repair.  A couple of years back a friend blew up his 1967 corvette 427.  It was not a minor explosion.  Parts flew out the side of the block and pan and most of the internals were turned to scrap.  He found a machine shop that was willing to take on the repair and they used a bunch of techniques to bring the block back from the dead including use of some kind of cement around a hole in the cylinder.
The best I could say is find a machine shop that takes on these types of jobs of restoring old or industrial engines.  They are out there!  You will not have luck going to the shops that specialize in modern volume production repairs or tweaking of rice rockets. I wish I could help further but as mentined there have been some experiences like yours on the g503 board so that might also be a great place to post.
Good luck and we hope you can save it!
Tom  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47goDevil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 10:25am
we've talked a bit on here about slight cracks, i forget where or when .  i've got a friend involved with the hit and miss engine . he's got a blacksmith friend who i've run my questions by but to no avail .  i'm looking to repair a good size crack on a model A block ,  from the water jacket to the valve chamber .   i'd hate to rebuild this block and have that happen again .   out here on the edge there isn't too many folks willing to take on those challenges .  from my understanding it takes a superheated block and the right makeup of a liquified steel in the correct facility .   those are hard to come by , so far . 
  i appreciate the information, if more is available by all means do tell .   maybe start a thread on just that , it may bring a show of hands , successful stories . 
  thanks Tom . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 12:04pm
GoDevil, you can't pin the crack with Lock n Stitch pins and then install a new valve seat? Did that myself on a model A years ago...well actually I had the Babbit Pot guys do it.

Edited by F Bill - 16 Mar. 2011 at 12:06pm
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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