Electric Fuel Pump

Hello Everyone:

Ironman,

I put in a low pressure electric fuel pump to resolve vapor lock issues on my 3A a couple of years ago. I put a switch under the dash so I can turn it on when necessary as well. Make sure that the electric pump is a flow thru so when you don't need it, the manual pump will still pump thru the electric pump. The electric pump does a great job when we are in the mountains of Colorado. I wish I didn't have to run an additional pump but I have never been able to resolve the VL issue and I have done a number of preventative features to try and fix the issue. Some guys never have a problem but for me the electric fuel pump did the trick. During the FCT in Colorado I saw guys pouring water on their mechanical fuel pump to cool things off and it worked great. Be sure and put a fuse in line and some type of switch to turn off and on. I hope I never roll over so I did not have a kill switch in the event that happens. If I did roll over the EFP would not be my first concern!

Hope this helps. Just my 2 cents worth.

Edited by tumbleweed - 12 Apr. 2018 at 4:20pm

I know a bit about electric pumps having used them on 5-6 different vehicles. The first thing to know is you are nuts if you do not install a Oil pressure Safety switch in the power circuit. The way the safety switch works is when cranking the engine the power goes straight to the pump. As soon as you let off the Key (or starter button) the power switches to being routed through a pressure switch that will open (sh*t off the power) if the Oil Pressure drops below 5-7PSI this prevents the pump from running if the Needle/Seat valve in the carb is held open either due to something like a roll over or if debris were to get stuck in it AND the engine is no longer running.

You should also run a Pressure Regulator to make sure the Pump is delivering the  recommended pressure to the carb. With some of the smaller/cheaper pumps this is less of an issue as they only operate at low pressures.

The inlet on the Electric should be at or blow the pickup at the tank (electrics do not SUCK fuel well they are designed to PUSH fuel) The back of the Riser is a good place to mount the pump. Make sure the mount has some rubber vibration dampening as well as it is BEST to run flexable fuel line into and out of the Pump.

Its also a VERY good idea to run a fuel filter just prior to the pump. It can even be screwed directly into the pump in many cases.

In my own case CHUG will be running a Holley Red electric fuel pump to a Shut off valve (to allow filter service with fuel in the tank as the filter will be below the level of the tank) to a Summit Racing serviceable 40 micron filter then with the line running inside the frame rail to a Holley Pressure regulator set to 2.5lbs (the Weber DGV carb I am running likes that pressure) then on to the Carb. I have made a blocking plate to remove the mechanical pump from the engine (along with the push rod)

Not at all suited to a stock jeep but I thought I would explain how I have chosen to run my fuel supply system. 

Link to the Post where I show the Holley recommended wiring circuit for an electric pump.

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/uploads/6692/pressureswschamitic.jpg


Edited by Mark W. - 12 Apr. 2018 at 6:15pm

Thanks to everyone who has responded to this thread. I have been schooled in the art of EFP !!! Now all I have to do is put all this knowledge to work. I will let everyone know how it works out when complete. Again thank each and every one of you for your help.