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Elmo

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Oilleaker1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 July 2018 at 11:50pm
Love what you guys do. Thumbs Up Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baja 4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 4:08am
Anything lately?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bridog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:01pm
Yes, we have gotten some work done on Elmo. About a month ago we cut the toolbox out. We did it by just drilling out the spot welds. Then we used the plasma cutter and cut it out in a couple of different chunks. A couple of weeks ago we finished filling holes! We did it just as we usually do by welding them shut with a chunk of aluminum behind the hole. If they were too big to do that, we would make a patch and weld it in. Due to different size holes in the dash, we would use a small washer, weld it in place, and then fill the center hole. Then, just last week, we started getting ready for the rock sliders. Our idea is to use 3" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" wall rectangular tubing. To make room for the tubing we cut the bottom 2 1/4" off of the side of the tub, then bent a 3/4" lip in, and then we will weld the tube to that flange. So that night we got the passenger side cut. We then used 2 pieces of flat iron and clamped them on both sides 3/4" up and used a hammer to bend the lip. Also last weekend my dad, sister, and grandparents went to Fall Willy's Reunion. There they found a good solid CJ3B windshield frame with minimal rust for $40 that they bought. That is all the progress for now, and we look forward to seeing many of you at FCT. -Dylan















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep. 2018 at 8:09pm
Those trail rocks won't stand a chance against Elmo! Wink I love that you are saving him and returning him to use. Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 4:31pm
Just a reminder Brian in case your not up on 3B peculiarities...
Be sure to use 3B pivot brackets on the windshield not Low hood pivot brackets.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 5:39pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Just a reminder Brian Dylan in case your not up on 3B peculiarities...
Be sure to use 3B pivot brackets on the windshield not Low hood pivot brackets.
 
Fixed it for you!
Bob

Flatfender wannabe
'71 Ford Bronco
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep. 2018 at 6:54pm
Yeah I know.
 I should be going straight to the boss and just skip the helpers. Ha Ha Ha !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bridog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 12:36am
Between Jeeping trips we were able to finish Elmo’s rock sliders. First we cut and bent a flange on the driver's side of the tub to match what we had already done to the passenger's side. Starting with (2) 42” pieces of 1.5” x 3” x 3/16” wall rectangle tubing we notched, bent, and welded them to match the bend in the body at 22” back from the front. We then drilled a series of 1/4” holes in each flange we bent on the tub, 27 in each flange to be exact. We then clamped the tubing to the tub and marked 3 holes on each slider that we later drilled and tapped. This allowed us to temporarily bolt the rock sliders into place. Once we get all done we will plug weld all 54 holes, securing the rock sliders to the tub. Trying to keep the original look, we decided to retain the drain holes by sleeving the rock sliders. To build the sleeves we wrapped some 3/16” metal around (4) pieces of 3/4” rod we cut and welded together. Once we had the sleeves fabricated we slotted the sliders and welded them into place. After the drain holes were done we cut the front of the sliders to match the tub/fender line and capped them.   Next we copied the original steps onto (4) pieces 3/16” plate, cut them out, spaced them 1.25” apart, wrapped the outside with some more 3/16” plate, and welded them into place. Our final task on the sliders was to finish the back of them where they meet the rear fender. This was done by cutting them to match the fender line and capping them with some more 3/16” plate.











When Ward came back for Rockfest he brought me a few goodies including a 225 odd-fire that we are hoping is in good shape.

Our next step is fabricating a frame. The 2” x 3” x 11ga and 2” x 4” x 11ga tubing has been ordered and we are currently finishing the design details.

-Dylan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 11:05am
Wow, Dylan, this is very cool!  Your dad had told me about Elmo, but I wasn't aware of this build thread.

Nice work so far!  Love those rock sliders, may have to borrow that idea for Targhee! 

Jack


Edited by jbjeeps - 03 Nov. 2018 at 11:09am
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote windyhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 1:19pm
Cool project, love seeing the Little helpers hard at work!  Your boy looks like he knows what he's doing!    EFI on a Odd fire is getting much easier. lots of info on ECJ5.  I'm planing to convert my 225 3B as well.
'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B
'59 CJ6
'65 CJ5
'67 CJ5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bridog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2018 at 10:50pm
Here is another little helper!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bridog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2018 at 10:16pm
We got some work done on Elmo’s frame. Two weeks ago we used the 48’ of tubing to cut the frame rail pieces. Then last weekend we welded them together. The frame is set up for a 85” wheelbase with Jeep YJ springs. The rails are 2x4” in the middle and 2x3” on the ends. The frame will flare out to a 36” rear from the 30” front. We also made a rear bumper out of 2x3” tubing that is 50” wide. The next step is to weld on the bumper and some temporary crossmembers.
-Dylan









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2018 at 11:48pm
Very interesting update there Dylan and helper.
Looks good...
I like the way your angle cut  the transitions from from the 4" to the 3" tube.

That tube should be ideal for spray arc technique.
Can you turn your amps enough up to get a smooth spray arc with your mig ?

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 12:58am
Men of steel!
Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD"
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
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teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 1:03am
85" wheelbase and YJ springs = awesome ride! Thanks for the update!
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sonoblast77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 5:08pm
With the yj springs do you have to weld wider spring perches on your axle tubes? And do you have to use the boomerang style shackles with the yj springs conversion? Just curious, i thought of changing to them, i just dont want the extra lift that comes with the boomerang shackles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bridog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 3:55am
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

That tube should be ideal for spray arc technique.Can you turn your amps enough up to get a smooth spray arc with your mig ?


I Googled "spray arc welding" and even watched a YouTube video of it. That is not the method I welded it with and I doubt that the Millermatic 185 has high enough output voltage to weld with that technique. But if it did and I used the correct shielding gas for that method, I would probably just blow through the 11ga wall tubing.


Originally posted by sonoblast77 sonoblast77 wrote:

With the yj springs do you have to weld wider spring perches on your axle tubes? And do you have to use the boomerang style shackles with the yj springs conversion? Just curious, i thought of changing to them, i just dont want the extra lift that comes with the boomerang shackles.


I am just a "round spring" guy, learning about these flat springs If you still want my opinion though it would be good to use wider spring perches, but not absolutely necessary. Not sure how the best way would be to modify the passenger side front axle mount to accept the wider spring. Maybe the casting could be clearanced another 1/4" with a grinder? Dylan is thinking he wants to narrow a Dana 44 for the front to match the rear and I think most of them are set up for 2 1/2" wide springs. No boomerang shackles, just going to make some basic ones.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 4:17pm
Dip Transfer vs . Spray Arc

Yeah, I do agree that 11 gauge is getting pretty thin for the "spray arc" technique.
Takes a steady hand moving fairly quick at minimal gap.
Thin backing stock would be ideal.
And most small gauge or hobby type mig machines cannot adjust to get it right.

I've built lots of truck frames and other parts  that way using the older transformer type machines. 
Spray arc produces a very strong weld that needs no grinding to look really nice.
And zero spatter..

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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