Emergency brake adjustment |
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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Posted: 31 July 2019 at 2:08am |
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I pull the brake hand out as far as I can. Crawled under and there is no slack anywhere in cable, linkage, and lever but when pushed, the Jeep rolls with no resistance. I haven’t pulled the drum yet. What should I be doing or looking for to make the emergency brake function properly?
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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Gerry,
Do your internals look like ralf's, posted here? The Service Manual, Section P, covers the steps.
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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1947-cj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Sep. 2015 Location: MISSOURI Status: Offline Points: 670 |
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Adjust your brake shoes!
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RICH
1947 cj2a (Toy From Hell) |
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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shoes are adjust all the way out then backed off a bit so not rubbing the drum.
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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Could it be the lever? It has quite a bit of movement before moving the shoe. Can this be adjusted? I checked the manual but it is not clear to me check/adjust the lever.
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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The cable system has some anchor points. If the cable isn't held in place by these anchors, it will seem to be too long to engage the brake. One anchor is on the firewall, right after the cable comes through the firewall. The other anchor is on the passenger side of the transmission mount/center support.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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Can I adjust the e-brake cable length?
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Online Points: 3400 |
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Adjust the shoes through the holes in the drum. The adjuster is on the left side.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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47 deuce alpha
Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2017 Location: Midland Texas Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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I may have had about the same problem with my e-brake. The shoes were good but when I pulled the cane to set the brake it would not quite engage. It seemed like i just needed a couple more notches on the cane. If I removed the return spring and moved the actuating lever by hand the brake held good. I built a short bracket and bolted it to the actuating lever that would let me adjust the length of stroke. Maybe you can see by the photos. So far it has worked great. |
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1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735 1949 Ford 8N 1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup Half the distance takes you twice as long. |
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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I have a lot of free movement in the operating lever before it moves the brake shoe. If I tighten the nut on the long bolt shown in the photo will that take the slack out of my lever? It looks like that may be the lever adjusting nut referred to in the manual. The manual text and photo are not that detailed to me. Can that adjustment be made without pulling the drum?
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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I’m referring to nut and long bolt in Ralfs photo from earlier reply.
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Short answer is...no. Did you make sure the cable is properly anchored at the firewall and the transmission mount? If not, nothing else you do will matter. This is the anchor bracket mounted on the firewall... This is the anchor bracket mounted below the transmission... |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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That isn't a typical place to adjust. It is known that several cables exist and are different lengths (along with 2 types of cane handles). You should compare cane attachment and your cable length to others that have original cables to see if yours is correct for your model. On my cable, I have a yolk at the end of the cable that attaches to the arm (you can see that in athawk's 2nd image). That yolk is threaded and adjustable. If your cable has this yolk, and it's all the way to the stop and you still have slack, your cable may be too long.
Edited by Rus Curtis - 01 Aug. 2019 at 4:25pm |
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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It's also called a clevis. Shown in the 3rd photo in Rocketeer's post in this thread... This is about the only thing you can use to adjust the cable length, but again, it won't matter if the cable isn't anchored.
Edited by athawk11 - 01 Aug. 2019 at 5:11pm |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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47 deuce alpha
Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2017 Location: Midland Texas Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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I had exactly the same problem on mine. There was free movement in the handle before it would start to engage the brake. The end on the cable would pull up against the housing before the brake was fully set. As per the photo, I started with a 2" long piece of 1" wide flatbar and drilled 4 holes in it. I then drilled 2 holes to attach a 3/8" cable clamp to the flatbar. The cable clamp attached to the brake cable just behind the eye. I then moved the actuating lever to take up the free movement and bolted it to the flatbar in the correct hole. This will allow the adjustment in cable length that you are looking for. As long as your cable is properly connected at the anchor points you won't need to pull the drum or mess with the cane or cable. Before I did this I spent a lot of time trying to adjust the brake. |
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1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735 1949 Ford 8N 1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup Half the distance takes you twice as long. |
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gerrym
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2011 Location: Ontario Canada Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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I might have to try this setup. Do you recall the hole spacing on the flat bar? Yes the cable is anchored properly at the firewall and transmission ends as shown in photos and yes I do have the yoke fork and clevis as shown in the photos with brake cable adjusted all the way to stop. Thanks all for the photos they really help. So maybe my cable is too long.
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47 deuce alpha
Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2017 Location: Midland Texas Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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Before you do anything else you need to be sure the brake is adjusted as Terry said. The easiest way i have found to do this is to jack up a rear wheel and disconnect the brake cable and return spring. Then you can move the actuating lever by hand, make your adjustment and roll the tire to see if the brake is holding. Saves a lot of climbing in crawling under and yanking on the cane. |
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1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735 1949 Ford 8N 1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup Half the distance takes you twice as long. |
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47 deuce alpha
Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2017 Location: Midland Texas Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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I drilled 5/16" holes (for 1/4-20 bolt) 1/4" apart edge to edge. you will also have some adjustment where to cable is clamped to the flatbar if needed. As you can see the return spring is attached in the cable eye. Be sure the cane is all the way down before making the connection below. |
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1947 CJ2A 90419
1947 CJ2A 127735 1949 Ford 8N 1955 Kaiser Willys Pickup Half the distance takes you twice as long. |
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