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Epoxy Floor Paint

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Buzz View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Aug. 2014 at 12:56pm
Just curious if anyone has utilized an epoxy floor paint for their garage.  Curious which brands folks like, don't like, etc.

Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug. 2014 at 6:31pm
I have never used on my garage but I have used it.   The only draw back is when wet it is a little slick  even with the bumps.  Very durable   A few friends of mine have it in their garage where the have fine cars.  If anything is spiled it wipes right up   no dust off of the cement to sweep.  I have used a commercial type  but most arer the same.  The paint/glue mix [epoxy] then the color paint chips then the 2 layers of sealer laquer.  3 layers are more dureable .  Lightly sand before each layer.  No one that I know regret doing it.
Forgot to mention   use a breather and ventilate area when putting it on.  Don't ask.Big smile
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Does10s Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug. 2014 at 7:36pm
I used the brand "U-Coat-it" on our garage floor back in 2006 and it's still on without any peel-up on the inside of the garage.
The area just outside of the garage doors, to the edge of the pad, that's exposed to the elements, has peeled. It's just the clear coat/sealer that's lifted. The base coat/color is still there.
 
The kit comes with silica (sand) to sprinkle around while the paint is wet to increase the texture and provide some wet traction.
But I don't recommend using it. It really makes it difficult to sweep!
Just use a lot more of the color flakes! This will provide a nice texture for wet, walking traction, but is easier to clean. And it looks good!
 
Our garage would be considered a "working garage". Floor jacks, welders, grinders, plenty of cars in and out, all sorts of floor coating abuse opportunities....and the coating is still there!!
Later,
Will
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2014 at 12:54am
When my shop's floor was poured, the contractor talked me into a sealer coating over it. It was a professional grade sealer and applied as per directions. As mentioned before; when wet it was slicker than snot. Each time a floor jack was moved it left tracks, jack stands left marks, torch cutting left marks, etc. When I got around to pouring the rest of the floor, the sealer wasn't applied and I don't miss it. Other products may yield a better result.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2014 at 1:20am
We did a student auto shop floor with epoxy back in the 80's....It was great stuff and wore well with all the abuse that floor got. I'd do it again. I think it was something from the local paint manufacturer, I don't even know if Passano Paint is still around.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damar2yxr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2014 at 2:06am
Hmmmm. I had a professional do my garage with an industrial product that has worn well.....but for DIY I have used Rustoleum garage floor epoxy and it has worked awesome in my pole building. Here is the caveat........preparation is EVERYTHING! The floor must be dry! The floor must be grease free! The floor needs to be etched! The absolute best floor to do is a fresh, non sealed one that has cured, dried and not been used much. Not in the cards for most of us. You can buy concrete cleaning products so go ahead and get on your hands and knees and scrub! Muriatic acid works really well for etching....just be careful! do it during a dry time in the summer. The kind I use had little flecks that you would sprinkle on to give it some texture and color variance. Afterwards I applied a clear coat which I highly recommend since this gives the paint a really high sheen---it makes it a snap to clean and is more durable. I am not a big fan of the anti skid sand additive...maybe by the door but I have found it to be a hindrance to cleaning....but I also understand with wetness and snow it can be slick.
Another cool option is concrete stain. It gives great results but with less work and is more forgiving. Check it out at your local BIG BOX store. Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PapaC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2014 at 4:20am
Ditto on the stain. I've also seen people get real fancy with that stuff on patios and carports and if the house is on a slab even cut grooves in it with a skill saw and diamond blade and made it look like fancy tile.

You'd still need a durable epoxy clear coat on it for protection but it's not too slick like some of the water sealers when wet.

Honorable mention, the right kind of concrete makes amazing counter tops when finished with stain and epoxy.


Probably tougher and definitely more stain resistant than granite.
I would love to have the same type finish on my shop floor as I've got on my home made countertops .



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2014 at 3:11pm
I wil be working with fresh concrete as my new pole building is just about finished.  Concrete has not seen any vehicles and has cured for 60+ days.  Thanks for everyone's input.  I'll post pics once I have made a decision and applied.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct. 2022 at 8:16am
Just one man's opinion - depends what you are using the shop for. Are epxoy floors nice - sure. look great. seem to last. But for my dollar - if you are dealing with fresh concrete, a high quality sealer is all you need. 

I did this on my prior shop and it was fantastic. Nothing penetrated the concrete. Spills wiped up. color and sheen remained consistent for 15 years. I would reseal every five years or so in the heavy traffic areas. But it never really needed it. More a preventative measure. 

I'll have to look in my old files and see if i can get the name of the product. But a quick search netted some industrial type sealers for reasonable money. 

Just an option for you.
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