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Exhaust valve stuck open |
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Bman61490 
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2017 Location: Cleveland Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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 Topic: Exhaust valve stuck openPosted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 8:37pm |
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Working on a 49 Willy truck with the L4. Got it fired up but only ran on back two cylinders. I suspected a head gasket so pulled the head. The #1 exhaust valve is stuck open. I have hit the inside with alittle pb and soaked it in MMO oil. I can tap it down with a hammer and it will come back up as I turn the engine over, but it stays up after that. Image is during the intake stage of #1. What can I do to free this? Don't want to rip into it any further. Thanks!
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Online Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 9:12pm |
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Keep soaking it, and keep knocking it down and pushing it back up. Eventually it will close easier, and then begin to close on its own. Be aware though, you run the very real risk of bending that valve by hitting it. I would use a soft (wood) drift and be very careful to hit it dead center, and gently. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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smfulle
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Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 9:25pm |
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What Bruce said.
Also might want to check the spring and make sure it is not broken of otherwise compromised.
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Bman61490
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2017 Location: Cleveland Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 11:06pm |
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So after i tap it back down and i turn the engine by hand it opens up with what seems like no resistance, it just wont go back down. Should this hint towards it being a spring issue? if it is the springs, The intake and exhaust manifolds must come off to access them correct? Basically is this a pull the engine out and fix it or could it be done without removing it? Thanks for your help guys!!
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 12:01am |
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You do not need to pull the manifolds to acces the valves. Remove the two bolts, then slide the cover out the front. You will need to twist the cover a bit...and it might help to disconnect the top radiator hose.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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danover321
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Joined: 30 May 2012 Location: Smithville, MO Status: Offline Points: 357 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 1:35pm |
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You need to remove the valve and run a wire brush through the guide in order to achieve free travel. If your going that far, pull all the valves, check the tolerances, and lap the seats prior to reinstallation. Valves and springs are cheap!
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44 Willys MB 379XXX
45 Willys MB 459XXX 46 Willys CJ2A 38008 46 Willys CJ2A 38136 47 Willys CJ2A 97474 US Army Active/Reserve 1989 to 2005 Desert Storm, Bosnia, Kosovo, Iraq Invasion 2003 |
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Joe DeYoung
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 5:24pm |
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Normally I would agree to touch up the valves as that has big paybacks on performance, but looking at the apparent poor condition of the #1 cylinder, I would not put a lot of time or money in that engine unless addressing the cylinder wall.
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Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife. |
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stude-a-willys
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Joined: 02 Sep. 2014 Location: Conifer, CO, US Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 5:57pm |
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Don't want to rip any deeper into the motor.
I've freed up stuck valves BruceW style too. Lots of lubricant on the stem. Move camshaft lobe out of the way, Tap it down, crank it back up, move cam out of the way, tap it down, crank it back up until it operates 100% reliable.
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Studebaker re-powered CJ2a
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 7:21pm |
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I too had success using Bruce's technique. The motor is a runner...but it smokes like a chimney. Ya'll might remember me from the Black Hills Run this year.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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smfulle
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 8:01pm |
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I thought you did that on purpose to chase away the skeeters.
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RICKG
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Joined: 08 Jan. 2015 Location: so idaho Status: Offline Points: 1941 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 8:36pm |
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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danover321
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Joined: 30 May 2012 Location: Smithville, MO Status: Offline Points: 357 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 1:52pm |
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Using the simple method listed above to free the valve will yield short term results; however, without cleaning the residue from inside the guide, the valve will only become seized again in the near future. Why not do it right the first time?
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44 Willys MB 379XXX
45 Willys MB 459XXX 46 Willys CJ2A 38008 46 Willys CJ2A 38136 47 Willys CJ2A 97474 US Army Active/Reserve 1989 to 2005 Desert Storm, Bosnia, Kosovo, Iraq Invasion 2003 |
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smfulle
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 3:41pm |
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Of course doing it right the first time is the best way, but not always the right way. Here's why I say that: 1. Limited funds: if one's project budget is limited and they wait until they have the funds to "do it right" the wait might be forever. 2. Limited time: Same thing if you only have a limited amount of time to work on a project, and you start out to "do it right" you may never finish. 3. Biggest reason (in my opinion), you can have a ton of fun flatfendering in a Willys that smokes a bit, or has rusty floorboards, or a broken windshield, or whatever. If you wait to drive your rig until you can fix it right you might never drive it. We have seen tons of people join this forum full of enthusiasm, who blow their jeep into every little piece and then never have the time, or money, or endurance to finish the job right. Make it run, stop, and light up, then fix the problem that bugs you the most over the winter when flatfendering is not so fun anyway. Don't get me wrong I love to look at a perfectly restored Willys, for a few minutes. Then I want to get back in my rusty, dusty, way less than perfect rig and hit the trail with my flat fender friends, most of whom have less than perfect rigs too, but all of whom are having the time of their lives. Everything that I said above does not apply if your main enjoyment in this hobby is the restoration, the detail, the hunting for period correct and numbers matching parts. I really admire the guys that do that, but my joy comes with the windshield down and the sound of that fan whirring as I raise some dust and see some stuff that the folks on the freeway are oblivious to. That's why I don't always do it "right" the first time. Your mileage may vary.
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 3:50pm |
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Well said, Stan.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Online Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 4:52pm |
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All that know me here will agree that I'm of the "Fix it right, fix it once" group. But in a case like this, a stuck valve "fixed right" would probably wind up being a complete rebuild. The PO did not ask about what to do with his engine, he asked how to get that valve to close. Yes, it would be best to remove that valve and clean it and the guide. And probably replace the valve, and the guide, and grind the seat, and while we're at it, check the rest of the valves and guides, and.....
Another member here came to me a few years back with a similar problem - each cylinder had one valve stuck open. I freed up the valves and got his jeep running, and he drove it for two years, and then we did the rebuild that I had told him was coming. By that time he was enjoying the jeep so much that he had no problem agreeing to the rebuild. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Bman61490
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2017 Location: Cleveland Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: 22 Nov. 2017 at 3:54pm |
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Thank you everyone for the help, After trying every trick provided to me i finally just removed the valve, cleaned it and cleaned the guide. Dropped the thing back in, button it up and it fired up and purred like a dream! Got the guy so excited he bought another willy!!
Now problem #2, overheating. The Willy overheats, and actually continues to get hotter when it shuts off, then wont restart until it cools down. I replaced the thermostat and noticed that the exhausted manifold spring does to close all the way. Also, I am leaking coolant from the water pump gasket so Im concerned that might be an issue as well? Any advice helps. Thanks!! |
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 22 Nov. 2017 at 4:38pm |
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It's normal to see the temp rise after shut down. The coolant is no longer flowing, and the fan isn't turning.
My experience with overheating has mostly been a timing issue, but there are a number of things that can cause this. Gummed up radiator or engine water galley. Failing water pump. Failing radiator hoses, bad thermostat or no thermostat. There is a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. Is it leaking from this weep hole? If so, it's time for a new water pump.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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athawk11 wrote: