E-Z out woes

Hey all... I did try to search first (maybe not very good at it, or just upset and rushing cause I just did this)

Edited by DocHoff - 10 Sep. 2017 at 11:58pm

Good luck. I've always managed to survive things like this.
A friend has an auto repair shop and locks up the carbide drill bits in his desk drawer so they don't "Walk off". They will drill through a drill bit or an Easyout. A lot of machine shops have them but they aren't going to loan them out.

There is no tool so misnamed as an EZ Out...there is nothing easy about it...

If there is ANY consolation to this situation, at least you didn't break off the stud closest to the firewall...damned near impossible to get to with any tools to extract a broken stud. (Ask me how I know!)

If you have access to a Dremel, I would start by getting the top of the broken mess as flat as possible because the next step is going to require that you center punch the flat spot as close to center as you possibly can.

Next, some intense heat just enough to get the stud/EZ Out a dull red. Try not to direct the heat to the block. Let it cool.

Drill the center of the stud/EZ Out trying not to get off center using a 19/64 or if you are somewhat off center, a 9/32 drill bit. The object is to get as much of the broken pieces out of the hole as possible. This hole will need to go all the way through the broken pieces to the interior of the water jacket. If you have access to a carbide bit, it might make it a little easier, but I would caution you that carbide, while it does drill harder materials is also very brittle. High speed steel drill bits may get duller quicker, but they are a lot more forgiving as far as breakage is concerned. If you are certain that you have hit the exact center of the broken parts you could possibly use a Letter "M" drill bit to clean up the hole a little larger.

After you have center drilled the broken pieces, apply some more heat, just enough to get it hot... not red. Let it cool. This is to relieve some of the stresses in the broken parts. Apply some PB Blaster or Kroil to the area and let it soak for a few hours applying some more at hourly intervals.

Using the largest straight cut EZ Out that will fit the full length of the hole, tap it into place and very gently apply pressure on the EZ Out being very careful to keep the pressure applied evenly with no side to side pressure. Gently tap the end of the EZ Out while applying gentle pressure. Hopefully, the broke part will give up and come loose.

If not, heat it gently again, but not red, and try more PB Blaster after it cools. This could take several tries over several days. PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE...

If the stud has come out, clean the hole up with a 3/8" x 16 tpi tap.

When going back with new studs, make sure the two outer studs are longer than the rest and that you use #2 Permatex on the threads that enter the block.

There are 7 studs. 3 are 1 1/2" long (oem p/n 300143), 2 are 1 3/4" long (oem p/n 632159), and 2 are 2 1/8" long oem p/n A-564)

Good luck...and you have my very deepest sympathy...

Please tell us your method of removal so that others may learn technique from your experience...

Hooray!

there is nothing like success to make you want to never do that again, lol.  Congrats!

Art,

Art,

I've never used Kroil...Do you recommend liquid and an oil can or spray bottle for best results or an aero spray can.