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Father son project cj2/3

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srlbotanical View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srlbotanical Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2018 at 11:19am
Love this thread. Nice job all around. 

It's work like yours that inspires me to keep plugging away on The Good Dog...


Steve
1948 CJ2A - The Good Dog
1997 TJ - The Trail Rig
2001 XJ - The kids ride
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Millennium falcon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan. 2018 at 6:30pm
Thanks guys... Ive gotten so much inspiration from others on this forum.....Im glad I can return the favor. I dove a little deeper into the transfer case today. The intermediate gear had one big rusty spot on it from where it sat out above the oil line for years. I had some good gears in the garage I was going to swap. When I pull the gear is noticed The intermediate shaft, and bearings were toast. I was going to swap shafts and bearings from another case I have but I realized this is a 1-1/8 case.... I had a good case with gears in it with 1-1/4 shaft so I went with that. So Im really only using the bearing retainers from the original case. The original will now be used for parts.  I cleaned all the small parts and scrapped all the old gasket material off (that was a job)! Then I hit all the machined surfaces with a large flat file to knock down any burrs and high spots. It is pretty much ready for re-assembly. I am waiting on one seal to get here but I have enough to get started. Then I will move on to the trans. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2018 at 8:00am
I started re-assembly last night. I installed the oil pan, and front bearing retainer. I left the the interlock pill out. I really like being able to run 2 wheel low. I really spent a lot of time prepping all the parts and surfaces for gaskets/sealers. I know it will still leak, but I did my best. I dont have a parts washer so this was a slow process. I cleaned each part with my bench mount wire wheel, then I soaked everything in solvent to get rid of any left over dirt/grease. I installed the rear bearing retaining with the original amount of shims that came with this case. The bearing retainers are from my original case, so I assumed pre-load would be off. First shot was it was a .016. I will pull a few shims and re-check. I know the case looks pretty crusty, but its in good shape and I will make it look better soon. Its whats on the inside that counts... :) 








 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2018 at 11:34pm
Set the pre-load at .005 and called it a day! Here is a peek..... its almost done. Just need to install brake drum, flanges and shifters. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2018 at 11:36pm
I have this little guy  in my CJ5 at the moment, but have been kicking around the idea of putting in in this jeep.....Hmmmmm.....what to do! 

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Rick G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2018 at 11:53pm
Originally posted by Millennium falcon Millennium falcon wrote:

I have this little guy  in my CJ5 at the moment, but have been kicking around the idea of putting in in this jeep.....Hmmmmm.....what to do! 


Seth, you definitely don’t want to install that in your jeep!  You’ll want to send that to Texas for safekeeping.Wink
1947 CJ2a #119929    "Gus"
1951 CJ3a #451-GB1-24268   “Some Assembly Required”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 12:43am
Originally posted by Rick G Rick G wrote:

Seth, you definitely don’t want to install that in your jeep!  You’ll want to send that to Texas for safekeeping.Wink

Seth,
Don’t do it. That guy in Texas is fun to wheel with, and a good guy, but he definitely WON’T keep your overdrive safe. Smile
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 4:47am
Yes, exactly save yourself some shipping, I'll store it for you!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2018 at 8:11pm
Moving on to the trans.... My goal is to make one out of this mess.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 1:57am
T-Case is dunzo! I think it tuned out pretty good.....too bad no one will ever see it. haha! 

I spent a few hours tonight disassembling all my t-90 cases... Not super stoked about any of it. None are the parts are as good as I had hoped. Eg. My best input shaft has a chipped tooth and my best main shaft has zero pitting and bearing surfaces look good, but the output splines are sloppy because someone ran it with the output gear nut loose.... So I guess I pick the best of the worst! haha! Buying new major parts just isnt financially possible right now. 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 6:29pm
I need some advice. I have 4 output shafts to work with. They all have some sort of issue. I need help picking the best one. What is the most critical surface. Im guessing its the bearing surface where it meets the input shaft?? I do not have money to buy a new one at the moment. So one of these will have to do for now. 


This one has a really nice needle bearing surface on the input side, but someone ran it with the output nut loose so the splines are wore....big deal? yes/no?




The other 3 have some wear on the bearing surface, but look ok otherwise. I checked all the surfaces with a micrometer and they are all super close. I am going to chuck them up in the lathe with an indicator and see how round they are. Any input is appreciated. I know buying a new one is the ideal option...I will eventually. :) 






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2018 at 9:10pm
I'd go with the third one down in the first pic.  Synchro hub sliding area looks good and the input end isn't too bad either.  That is, as long as the rear bearing isn't loose on its surface.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2018 at 11:56pm
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

I'd go with the third one down in the first pic.  Synchro hub sliding area looks good and the input end isn't too bad either.  That is, as long as the rear bearing isn't loose on its surface.
Yes i agree the third looks the best and if there is wear on the yoke spline that can be remedied with some low strength locktight
lets go for a rip eh bud

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2018 at 1:05am
I did indeed go with the 3rd one down... It had the best bearing surface and the least output spline wear. Everything went together well. I watched ricks videos and learned a lot. Time will tell if I did it right haha!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2018 at 3:17pm
Drive train is done and ready for install. Before i do, I am going to clean and paint the cross member and skid plate... The bell housing also needs paint. The clutch and pressure plate look brand new, but I'm not sure about the pilot bushing so I think I will just replace it with a new one just in case. Im really happy with how the transmission turned out.... I inspected and checked everything with a micrometer and and the "feel" test. I used ricks video tip on checking to make sure my second gear was fully engaged. It was perfect. My output shaft surfaces were within spec and I found two new blocking rings in my magical box of parts. I found a "second gear" that passed visual inspection and the inner bushing had the smallest ID of all the ones I could chose from. I used my telescope gauge to compare them. And now my output gear fits tightly on the shaft so hopefully the nut will stay tight now. It was the best I could do with the parts I had on hand. 





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2018 at 8:49pm
Looks pretty good from here!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2018 at 10:55pm
Thanks! too bad no one will ever see it. I guess I will know its there. :) 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan. 2018 at 4:57pm
Me seal came in the mail so I was able to wrap it up. Its all done and installed. I found a good use the old input shaft. I cleaned and painted some odds and ends too... Put the skid plate in the press and squished it flat... cleaned up the cross member as well. Weather is looking good for this week. I may try to start priming. I still need to iether go back to stock springs or remove some leaves from these. Go over the driveshafts and install them. Figure something out with the rear calipers. Make new brackets??? Go back to drums??? not sure yet. 









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