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Flywheel and clutch install

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ralf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Flywheel and clutch install
    Posted: 11 July 2010 at 4:33am
Before you start this step, go to the link posted two posts below so the crank shaft flange will be correctly aligned with the flywheel or you could be 180 degrees out. (faint arrow on the crank flange should point up and faint arrow on flywheel near center should point up)

Crank shaft flange.  Dowel pin/bolts marked in white:



Dowel pin close up:


Flywheel timing marks:  (note new pilot bearing)


Flywheel bolt through crank shaft flange.  These can't be removed or replaced without removing crank shaft.





Slide open end wrench behind flywheel to snug nuts.


Torque to 41 foot pounds:



Clutch disk marked "flywheel side":


Using spare input shaft for alignment tool:


Pressure plate snugged to flywheel, only 14 foot pounds torque.  Then remove alignment tool.



From left to right: Transmission bearing retainer, release bearing carrier, release bearing (throw out bearing)  Clutch spring on Passenger side and clutch fulcrum on drivers side of carrier:


Drivers side release/throw out bearing with clutch fork fulcrum.  Fork fingers fit behind top and bottom tabs on carrier (between tabs and transmission bearing retainer)with indent on fork riding on fulcrum.






Edited by ralf - 09 Dec. 2010 at 12:36am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote porsskar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2010 at 3:43pm
Great to see this in this form, now I can understand it!
Sten from Finland
1947 CJ2A serial 94118
1949 8NAN Ford tractor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2010 at 12:30am
Here is the link to the photo of the crank properly positioned for fly wheel install.

http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/techtips/alignmarks/index.html
1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor

1941 J-3 Cub
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote all4jpn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2010 at 1:17am
we need more of these articles..thanks so much
46 cj/06 lj/ and mb/2a/38 hybrid project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champaigne24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2010 at 3:32am
 i was going to post a question about installing  the pilot bushing when i notice the above post on flywheel clutch install ,fantastic that will the next step for me and you really demistified the procedure i have one question do i need to burnish the pilot bearing ?like it shows in my jeep book.
ps i have a1946 go devil ready for mycj3a god willing and the economy haha.anymore links are appreciated.
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ralf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2010 at 3:43am
Good question. don't have answer.  Some one who is a real mechanic will have to help us out.  All I did was put the bearing in the freezer and the flywheel in the oven. (When my wife wasn't home)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champaigne24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2010 at 6:24am
my flywheel is on already does any one have any comments a bout installing the procedures  for the bushing. can i use an similar size socket and gently tap in place ?should i "BURNISH "inside id?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sireland67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2010 at 12:23am
Originally posted by champaigne24 champaigne24 wrote:

my flywheel is on already does any one have any comments a bout installing the procedures  for the bushing. can i use an similar size socket and gently tap in place ?should i "BURNISH "inside id?
 
I would freeze the bushing, and remove the flywhell and heat it in the oven, the bushing will drop right in with little or no force.  Yes you can tap it in with a similar size socket.
 
Every clutch that I install I take the the shop to have it surfaced anyway, so just give them the bushing, they normally will not charge anything if you have the flywheel surfaced.
 
Caution, before installing the bushing, check to make sure it will slide on the end of the transmission first, I have seen more than one bushing that was either too loose or too tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champaigne24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2010 at 5:23am
calipers would be handy .whats to loose .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champaigne24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2010 at 5:29am
my flywheel is machined  did get some slight rust from exsposure in the garage before putting the old clutch on to protect the clean surface .what do you use  do to clean the surface  light oxidation only you know .will the new clutch clean it with use?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2010 at 10:11pm
I don't think a little rust will hurt.  You may want to hit it with steel wool and some fast drying solvent.  It gets wet and will rust after installation anyhow.
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1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor

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1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor
1942 Clarktor WW2 tug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2010 at 11:11pm
THANKS FOR SHARING    RALF   Thumbs Up

STILL GOING TO TELL YOUR WIFE @ THE OVEN  !!!   Wink
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www.eastcoastwillys.org
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champaigne24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2010 at 5:21pm
thats good to know about the cleaning.will do just that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike in oregon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2013 at 3:28am

 



Edited by mike in oregon - 25 June 2013 at 8:01pm
MIKE IN OREGON
President of Oregon Flat Fender Club.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KC-10ENG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 July 2014 at 5:25pm
Just a question about the flywheel bolts and their orientation. When I removed my motor only the dowel pins were installed. The 4 other bolts were put in with the nuts on the motor side not the flywheel side like in the above pic. The motor is currently at the machine shop. Do I need to take the bolts to the machine shop and have them installed into the crank?

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2014 at 4:47pm
The bolts are special bolts that are supposed to be inserted on the engine side of the crankshaft. They have both shallow heads and large and long shoulders that don't allow slop between the bolt and the crankshaft flange and the bolt and the flywheel.


Edited by samcj2a - 15 July 2014 at 4:49pm
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexBillHS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug. 2014 at 5:35pm
Good info - I have been all over the web looking for the torque - I never would have guessed 14 pounds.  I have done them before just guessing, I know I cranked them down real good - a lot more then 14 pounds.  I have to hunt for a manual at Gilbert.  I thought I could find one on-line, a free download
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexBillHS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2014 at 4:56pm
Ok - I found my old Chilton manual  - IT SAYS torque the clutch to 25 pounds.  Where did the 14 pounds come from?  Good thing I can reach the bolts trough the access cover
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