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Make Your Own Canvas Top

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jpet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2020 at 3:10am
Rear Curtain:



The main panel is the same size as a 2A rear curtain except for the added tail so that it can be used at the back of the half cab or the back of a full canopy.

I’ll make clearer drawings tomorrow. Sew the reinforcements around the edges.



I do my windows different than the originals. The originals are a thicker poly, the binding goes around the poly, then the whole thing is sewed to the outside of the curtain. I put the binding on the curtain:



.... then I sew a piece of poly to the inside:



Finally I trim out the excess around the perimeter:



The reason I do it this way is because I think it looks better from the outside, it leaves no open edges on the inside, and it is much easier to replace the poly if it every needs to be.



.... more
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2020 at 3:22am
The tail piece is 20” x 36”. I’ll post a drawing tomorrow. Flip the rear curtain with the back side up. Lay the tail as shown the edge of the tail should be 5” from the bottom edge of the curtain:



... then lay this 6” tall reinforcement piece over the tail and sew it down:



Once this is finished flip the assembly so that the outside is up and sew the 4 straps to the curtain (prints later). After this is finished fold the tail downward and sew it as shown:



Finally, install the grommets:



Now that the grommets are install, you can transfer their locations to the half cab:



CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2020 at 4:12am
Totally awesome work!
There is just nothing as neat as a canvas topClap
Thanks for sharing 
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2020 at 1:23pm
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2020 at 2:38pm
I continue to be duly impressed with your work, Jeff, and that only pales to your willingness to share it Thumbs Up
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob Bell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2020 at 7:36pm
I am getting ready to start my top ... I have a very very ancient complete top to use as a guide, plus of course Jeff's wonderful work and diagrams.
I am going to start with just the three piece top, as I live in California, and most of the time the weather is pretty clement.
I scored 7 yards of 18oz olive drab canvas - wanted to buy 10 yards, but they only had 7 available, and the price was great - $175 with free shipping.
I've been looking around for black fasteners, and wondered if anyone here had any quantities to sell, as I really don't want to buy 100 when I just need 50. I figure I can salvage a few from the old top ....

And a very heartfelt thanks to Jeff for his wonderful work.

Bob Bell
1946 CJ2A 35116
1951 Cj3A S/N unknown at present
Used to own CJ2A 10011.


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1951 CJ3A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2020 at 11:45pm
I think I’ve found a source for good gray colored canvas:



It’s darker than these original examples but that’s not to say that it will fade some. It’s definitely more gray than olive drab. . .... Anywho, it conforms to the same specs as the military OD other than color.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2020 at 2:15pm
Here are some pics of the the soft top installed on Joe's DJ:









It looks a little wrinkly in the pics but I promise that if it sits outside for a day you will see that all go away. That's one think I like about using cotton is that it will conform to the geometry of the bows.

I'll post some more patterns soon.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2020 at 2:57pm
The rear roof assembly techniques can be seen on page 2:
Make Your Own Canvas Top (page 2)

There are also drawings. Here is a drawing of the roof piece to the rear roof assembly:



Rear_Roof_Top_3A.pdf

If you are using cotton, you may add 1/2" to the length. I've said this before, and I will say it again, I can not stress enough that you should use these roof dimensions as a guideline. Same thing with the front roof. The best way to do this is:

1. Cut front roof piece and leave it extra long.
2. Sew the front face piece with coping to the front roof assembly
3. Install the roof piece on your jeep and drag it back over your bows
4. Use your front bows as an edge to mark a cut line. Leave 1/2" for a 5. hem and maybe a little more for shrinkage.

After the front roof is finished with zipper installed, you can use this same procedure for the rear roof. Make the roof piece first and leave it extra long. Sew the zipper to the front, then install everything on the jeep. Use your bows to mark the cut line leaving 1/2" for a hem.

Most jeeps are a little different. The windshield may tilt a little forward or back. The bows may tilt one way or another. If you just blindly cut your fabric to the drawings and make the pieces without checking, they may or may not fit.

I think my daughter has convinced me to turn this into a full business. If I have made you a canopy in the past, and your pictures are not on this forum, can you please take some pictures and email them to me or post them in this thread.

jpet@frontiernet.net

I will set up a website soon to separate any business dealings from this thread to be compliant with the rules of the forum. Thanks!
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bridog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2020 at 2:01am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I think my daughter has convinced me to turn this into a full business...

That is exciting newsThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2020 at 1:38pm
I hope this doesn't sour you on your Jeep hobby. I also am wondering about the manley scent of your washer and dryer-----LOLLOL-------or maybe you have a separate set to condition the tops out in the shop.

You may need a special top with rock sliders eh?????? Wink

I believe the demand for Willys Jeep Tops and professional service is always going to be there for you. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2020 at 4:23pm
Jeff... It seems to me that the top fit should be good so long as the windshield is set up to its proper angle. Right ?
So I'm wondering how could you possibly mass produce tops if each jeep were unique?

Regardless I'm very impressed by the quality, detail and looks I see in your tops.
I'm usually a hard cab kinda guy but would absolutely love to have one of your complete 3A tops.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2020 at 4:48pm
Jeff,

That is simply Awesome to hear.  You might consider also taking on some of the other early Jeep "armor up" options, disc brake backing plates (3/8 and 1/2"), spring sliders, skid plates (like the PTO or triple thick transmission version with a parking brake guard), Rear tire mounts and so on.  That stuff is available for modern Jeeps but the rest of us are fabricating one offs or making a run of 10 sets it is just to hard to keep momentum.

Best to you in this venture!

Stev 

edit : simply


Edited by Stev - 28 Jan. 2020 at 7:24pm
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2020 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Jeff... It seems to me that the top fit should be good so long as the windshield is set up to its proper angle. Right ?
So I'm wondering how could you possibly mass produce tops if each jeep were unique?...
The same as all the other top makers I guess. It's up to the individual to make sure their geometry is within an acceptable range. This is the very reason, I do not install the curtain fasteners in the bottom of the doors. I let the end customer do this.

.... That being said, I plan to offer custom designs. I only need a handful of dimensions and I can recreate the geometry in 3D so my plan is to be able to do custom work without needing the vehicle in my shop.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2020 at 1:22am
Quote That being said, I plan to offer custom designs.
That alone should give you a monopoly.. Ha Ha Ha !
Myself I'm still considering a 3A build with a 20" frame stretch just behind the seats.

Good luck then... and I hope it pans out for you. 
If its something you really like doing that should make all the difference.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2020 at 8:19pm
Here are the dimensions for the side curtains:



3A_Side_Curtain.pdf
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob Bell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2020 at 1:30am
This week we will be fabricating the front side curtains that go around the top bows behind the driver & passenger seats. 

These are for a 2A and they have the door handle attached to the curtain, NOT the door. The handles and associated parts are then attached to the upright rods that go between the lip of there body tub and the horizontal rod that goes from the windshield to the first top bow. The doors close upon these upright rods.

The two handles (inside and out) are riveted together. 

It would appear that I will have to grind off the rivet head to split the handles before we can fit the new fabric. Then the parts will have to be reattached over the canvas, with a new rivet. Or am I missing something?

Assuming I do have to remove the rivet, my question is: Is there a supply of these rivets? I haven't ground off the tip yet, but imagine the shank must be square in order to operate the handle.

Best,

Bob
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1951 CJ3A
Used to own 1945 CJ2A 10011
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2020 at 3:02am
These pictures are blurry (thanks photobucket)

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/top-bows-doors_topic8599_post72818.html#72818

.... but I think you can see that it is a pin with two steps and a flat milled on it.   You have to grid the mushroom head off. Some people just put a weld on them. Some tap a small hole in the end and screw a button head into them.   
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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