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Axle clunk on tight turns

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Splam View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 1:14am
When I turn sharp to the right I am getting the clunk or cracking from the left front axle when in 4 wheel drive.  I have done a search on this topic and found that I should the shims on my hubs.  I removed on shim and am now at 60 thousands but still get the clunk.  I have read that you should set the degree of turn, how do I measure this?  What should I check it my turning is not to tight and I still get the clunking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 2:03am
Try reading through this thread.
 
The .060 is only for the rzeppa shimming. Bendix must be determined individually. Determine if ends are threaded or not and the type of axles used. Best to check both sides as sometimes there are different axles installed over time.
 
WFB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 3:13am
Depending on the make of the axle shaft, the turning radius can be different. You need to check what style shaft you have in there and quite possibly adjust the steering stops accordingly.

The turning angles (articulation) of each type are:

Rzeppa 29 degrees
Spicer   27.5 degrees
Bendix  23 degrees



You can see there can be quite a difference. Vernco has some good info here:

http://www.vernco.com/frontaxle/id374.htm

http://www.vernco.com/frontaxle/id374_turn_limit_caution.htm

http://www.vernco.com/frontaxle/id373_turn_limit_with_seal.htm

Larry


Edited by rocketeer - 13 Jan. 2016 at 1:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Splam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 5:48pm

Larry

Thanks for the links, I have looked through them but my axle is installed and I do not want to stand my jeep on its nose of tail to use and angle finder!!!!!!   I was hoping someone could measure from the spring to the tire when turned all the way.  If someone has theirs adjusted correct that should get me close.  I would adjust to the 23 for the Bendix and check to see if I still had the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brachus12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 6:02pm
Did you read that last link that jpet posted?? It describes a method of measuring while the axle is installed.

The turn limits can be checked even if the axle is already installed on the vehicle.  The following pictures show the left turn limit being checked.  The edge of the leaf spring is used as a reference plane for the straight ahead position.  The steering wheel is turned fully so the knuckle contacts the turn limit bolt.  The shoulder of the tire will be compared with the leaf spring.  The difference will be used to determine the angle.  It is very important that the tape measure be held at a right angle to the leaf spring.  Looking aft, the distance from the tire's shoulder to the leaf spring is being measured at the front:


Edited by Brachus12 - 16 Nov. 2009 at 6:04pm
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http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y119/brachus/Willys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 6:52pm
After the above measurements, calculate the angle using your trigonometry skillsCry.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Splam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2009 at 7:40pm
Roger that!!!!!  I think I remember how that is done, I knew I would need all that knowledge my catholic nuns instilled in me back in 19--- well never mind.  If all else fails I guess I can use a builders protractor to measure off the springs if they are perpindicular to the axle, I have never really looked to see if they are.
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bob777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2009 at 12:26am
The symptoms you describe sound similar to how mine acted in a tight turn, most distressing at the time. Turns out the Bendix axle ends had severe wear. New Spicer axles solved the problem. The "races" on both the drive axle and driven axle were flat worn out. On Bendix axles these cannot be repaired.
 
Check axle types on Seans web page, he gives a excellent description of the various axle types with photos and a "how to" figure out what you have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Splam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2009 at 12:52am
Well I pulled both axles tonight and found my problem.  My short side is a Rzeppa that has a broken cage that retains the balls.  Two of the balls and part of the cage was laying in the botton
of the housing.  It did damage the retaining screws and the cap which they retain.  I am not sure I will be able to get the screws out without drilling the heads.  Does anyone know where to buy parts or are they no longer available.  I do have a couple of  rolling frames so I may just pull one of those apart to see what axles are in them.  My long side is a Bendix and it is fine. 
I wonder what caused this to fail, anyone ever seen it before and if so did you find the cause?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2009 at 2:30pm
Recently rebuilt my rzeppas. Sean steered me to Pete Debella who has NOS kits available to rebuild two rzeppa axles. Nice kits in original box covered with cosmoline. If you have the threaded end rezeppa axle?, they have a pilot pin (included in the kits BTW) if this pin fails the joints could fail as you described. If you are using two different axles you must set both stops for the one with the least turning radius. You  haven't said if your ends are threaded or not. There are differences that must be considered between threaded and non-threaded axles also that can contribute to failure. 
 
WFB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Splam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2009 at 3:00pm

Both my axles are threaded.  Where is the pin you are refering to that may have broken and caused the problem, I did not see it.  Who would I contact to purchase the rebuild kits?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov. 2009 at 3:15pm
Splam
 
Read through the thread I posted the link to earlier. Lots of good info there w/photos. Here's a link to the rebuild kit:
 
The pilot pin goes through the center of the joint. Kinda looks like an hourglass type shape. It helps keeps the two axle halves centered in the joint. Do you have a mechanics manual? It is invaluable in rebuilding each of the different joints with drawings of the parts involved.
 
WFB


Edited by westforkboyd - 17 Nov. 2009 at 3:26pm
'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule
'39 Ford 9N
'55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle
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