Cj2a Power Steering conversion help!!

I have a 47 Cj2a that I am putting a saginaw p/s conversion on and I need help. If anyone who has done could post pictures of how you have your tie rods hooked up, your power steering hoses ran and your steering column shafts running to the p/s gearbox PLEASE POST them. Im not sure how to get all of this hooked up. Thanks...

For HIS glory

I'll try to get some of mine tomorrow. I didn't do it, it was converted before I got the 48. I've had it since 2001 and it has always performed great. It has the power box but no pump hooked too it. Handles great with 31x10.5's, no wobble at speed ever!

Rob H.

1948 CJ2A
bits and pieces of three 3A's
1967-72 Chevy C/10 kinda combined them LOL

VertIgo wrote:

If anyone who has done could post pictures of how you have your tie rods hooked up, your power steering hoses ran and your steering column shafts running to the p/s gearbox

In other words....you want the ones of us who have done this to take all the fun out of it for you.

right?

By typing in Saginaw Power steering swap at Google, I got 2,980,000 hits in 0.27 seconds. There's probably even a picture or two in there.

edit.....

Putting Saginaw Power steering swap jeep narrows it down a bit.

Edited by rocnroll - 28 Apr. 2010 at 8:27pm

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"

rocnroll wrote:

VertIgo wrote:

If anyone who has done could post pictures of how you have your tie rods hooked up, your power steering hoses ran and your steering column shafts running to the p/s gearbox

In other words....you want the ones of us who have done this to take all the fun out of it for you.

right?

By typing in Saginaw Power steering swap at Google, I got 2,980,000 hits in 0.27 seconds. There's probably even a picture or two in there.

Here is one link that Roc's search googled up. It has pictures.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa167/PhilC64/FJ40/P2100004.jpg&imgrefurl=http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/273969-my-saginaw-power-steering-swap.html&usg=__X74P6Y_vvuZf_lcbxKuyqsISEhM=&h=768&w=1024&sz=92&hl=en&start=8&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=nH7sIZAxrixPQM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3DSaginaw%2BPower%2Bsteering%2Bswap%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1

Mike in Mississippi
2006 Jeep Rubicon
1946 CJ2a #49667
1946 Bantam T3-C #7909
1 UNDERSTANDING Wife

"2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 rights will make a left".... Gallagher

I second the thought on checking the early CJ5 page

Here you go step by step with pictures.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/howto/3326/index.html

- Matt

It can also be done without using a two hole knuckle. (as in compyellow's example)

Here's Mattew's link made 'clickable'.....a good one.....bunch of pictures! http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/howto/3326/index.html

Clicking on the ninth picture down will show what compyellow is referring to. Using this does basically the same as the two hole knuckle....although there are some that like the 'top steer' option the knuckle can provide.

Mine is roughly the same as these conversions except mine is a springover which would confuse the issue somewhat in regard to the way the linkage looks but not really in the way it works. Mine is almost identical to compyellow's except I used a 4" dropped pitman arm.

Most all of these steer you (did I just say that?) toward Advance Adapters parts primarily because they are magazine written but they DO have good products. The conversion can be done without all their fancy mounting plates and such if you have some 1/2" steel plate laying around and some fab skills...........AA parts are GREAT to use, if you want to work that into your budget though.

Edited by rocnroll - 28 Apr. 2010 at 8:56pm

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"

For HIS glory

Convert to high steer. Then your tie rod goes into the top of the steering arm hole with the castle nut on the bottom. Those holes are tapered so you have to drill them round then insert a tapered bushing from goferitoffroad, 2 for $30 + $4 shipping. The old school way is to use a reamer to reverse the taper far enough to drop the tie rod end in. This will help keep your drag link closer to parallel with your tie rod. I ordered 3 bushings today because my tie rod only clears my springs by 1 1/2 inches. I am not going to hang my Saginaw box untill I have the tie rod up on top then I can position my Pitman arm and measure for the independent drag link.

1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor

1941 J-3 Cub
1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor
1942 Clarktor WW2 tug