Calling all Leftys!

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Topic: Calling all Leftys!
Posted: 03 Feb. 2024 at 6:26pm

Thanks!

Bob W

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Posted: 03 Feb. 2024 at 5:26pm

unfortunately, i can't answer that for you as the original tub has been replaced. the front gusset w/ ACM number was removed from the original and grafted onto the replacement.

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Posted: 02 Feb. 2024 at 5:00pm

Willy Wonka wrote:

hey Lefties Smile

here's another one

Pat. Tag 177739

Did it have a Body Tag below the Patent Plate? If not were there 2 drilled holes for a body tag?

Thanks!

Bob W

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Posted: 02 Feb. 2024 at 11:42am

hey Lefties Smile

here's another one

Pat. Tag 177739

ACM Number 167812

new tub converted to lefty

this one has one 10 leaf spring on the left side in the rear.

not sure if that was factory or not, but it's staying that way

Edited by Willy Wonka - 02 Feb. 2024 at 11:45am

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Posted: 19 June 2023 at 6:48pm

thanks :-)

Stev

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Posted: 19 June 2023 at 4:52pm

The hole is only on the drivers side just like the rest of the CJ2As.

Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

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Posted: 19 June 2023 at 12:37pm

does the access panel above the left tail light move sides on leftys?

my body has big holes on both sides and i'm wondering which is correct.

thanks!

Bob W

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 7:44pm

WillysWally,

Since you are in Western PA perhaps you are close to me, I am near Monticello, NY. That is my kit in the photo on the CJ-3B Page. Stop by sometime and take a look at it.

Bob

Bob W

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 5:54pm

Good Afternoon Joe:

Bingo! That is exactly what I was looking for. As I mentioned I am a wood treater and am very familiar with the various preservatives that might have been used back in the day.

Both Pentochlorophenol (Penta for short) and creosote will leave the wood looking dark to black in color after it is treated, particularly in that era. I was suspicious that it might have been Penta. As a wood preservative Penta is on its way out the door. Since the mid 80's or so it has been classified as a restricted use pesticide and was available only to commercial plants. It was used primarily for treating utility poles and their associated cross arms. Over the next year or so all of the remaining stocks of Penta will be exhausted.

Copper napthanate, that you mentioned is about the only true wood preservative that is available to the regular consumer. The wood will turn green in color due to the copper that is in it. The copper is the primary biocide that spoils the milk as it were, so that the fungi and other decay organisms wont eat it. Although the species of hardwoods that you listed may have had Willys blessings, my recommendation would be to either use red oak or "white soft maple" as they have the best chance of getting meaningful penetration with the copper napth. The reason you want to use red oak and not white oak is the same reason that they make whisky barrels out of white oak. The red oak would leak, hence getting better penetration in red oak than the white oak, which doesnt leak. White soft maple is the sap wood portion of soft maple. We have actually done some research on white maple and can get decent penetration and retention on it with another water based preservative. The longer you soak it the better.

The copper napth wont actually seal the wood, so you might want to paint it with either a good acrylic enamel or the spar varnish.

From the pictures of the kit that I saw on the link that was provided, ya, it looks like a dark board, some nuts bolts washers and some spacers, not all that difficult to put together.

Thanks again for the information.

Regards,

Walter

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 2:34pm

Wally - 670504 is an outsourced kit and does not seem to have individual parts for each component. (no separate part number for the board)

but:

Most wooden willys spacers specify:

Oak

Yellow Birch

Beech

Hard Maple

Soft Maple

Pecan

Hickory

Elm

Ash

Preservatives specified:

Dipping for 5 minutes in wood preservative and grain sealer

Preservative to contain a minimum 5% Pentochlorophenol

or minuimum 1% phenolmercuric oleate by weight

in accordance with US ARMY SPec 3-186 type 1

I usually use copper napthanate.

Or another option:

Edited by Joe Friday - 26 Feb. 2023 at 2:52pm

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 1:38pm

Good Afternoon Everyone:

In addition to Jeep CJ2A fever I also suffer from a severe case of Dodge WC fever as well. I have done 2 Dodges and one Ben Hur steel trailer in which I used a high quality marine grade polyurethane spar varnish on the wood that was easily seen and a good quality, tinted wood primer and a Gillespie paint for the top coat where the wood was exposed underneath. I did not use the water based formulation of either the spar varnish nor the paint primer. I am a bit old fashioned that way.

One of the two dodges was a WC 53 Carryall and the oak was used on the rear floor area. The tops of the three wooden panels were done in the spar varnish and the bottoms were painted. I would partially discount the performance of the spar varnish due to its being in an enclosed cab. However, it is not a hangar queen having made the 2012 Alcan Convoy and last years Great Smoky Mountain Convoy. It also makes it into the Pennsylvania central mountains for a weekend or so each year.

The other one, a 1945 WC-52, has even more wood on it as well as being a convoy veteran of both the 2012 Alcan and the 2015 Bankhead Convoys. It too makes it to the PA mountains on a regular basis. After 11 years, the wear and tare on it is more of the mechanical nature due to dragging gear and other stuff in and out of the truck. While it could certainly use a new top coat it is only needed to smoothe out the scratches that have accumulated over time. The '45 models were the ones with the composite beds where the outer sides were made of steel, but the inner sides and the tops of the rear fenders, grenade box lids, all serving as troop seats, were all wood. My reasoning for doing the the exposed tops as wood is that the clear finish automatically tells the story -- its wood! In short the story tells itself.

The reason I suggested the Spar Varnish as a reasonable substitute is that I suspect that yes, they will be out there in the mud, the blood, and the beer when we are out and about with the jeeps, but I cant help but think that the majority of our jeeps are kept at least out of the weather, under some sort of roof when not in use and would then expect a similar performance out of the spar varnish.

Regards,

Walter

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 10:00am

I agree with the oil approach.....lay it in a pan of used motor oil and let it marinade for awhile.

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 9:53am

WillysWally wrote:

Good Evening Bill:

Many thanks for the link. It was very helpful. But it also raised a couple of additional questions. The article mentioned that Willys used a dark sealant preservative on the oak reinforcing board.

I agree that the spar varnish would be a good modern day substitute, especially a marine grade. Being both a hardwood guy as well as a commercial wood treated, is there any documentation on exactly what Willys actually used. My interest is more one of professional curiosity.

Thanks again.

Regards,

Walter

That question is above my pay grade. Maybe Joe Friday knows???

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Posted: 26 Feb. 2023 at 9:51am

I do not agree that spar varnish is a good choice, unless you are willing to 1) re-visit that finish every few years. More often if its stored outside and 2) apply several thin coats (5), starting with a 50/50 thinned bond coat. Sanding between every coat. Nothing looks worse than a deteriorating varnish finish.

I grew up in Maine and spent a lot of time on the water, near and in boat yards. Spar varnish is a great finish. I saw, applied and used a lot of it. But it takes effort to make it effective and effort to maintain it to a nice level.

Having said that, my bright finished doors here in Colorado are spar and I get about 4 years before re-finish. It is worth it because there are few finishes that are warmer in tone, while bringing out the woods natural beauty better, than a good quality oil based varnish.

I suggest also considering an oil finish, which avoids the biggest drawback of wood finishes like varnishes for the outdoors which is varnishes use a layer(s) to shut out the elements, unlike oil finishes that are in the wood and do not build a coat over it.

Edited by jhg - 26 Feb. 2023 at 9:54am

1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.

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Posted: 25 Feb. 2023 at 11:39pm

Good Evening Bill:

Many thanks for the link. It was very helpful. But it also raised a couple of additional questions. The article mentioned that Willys used a dark sealant preservative on the oak reinforcing board.

Thanks again.

Regards,

Walter

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https://www.cj3b.info/Tech/TailgateSpare.html

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Posted: 25 Feb. 2023 at 7:37pm

WillysWally wrote:

Good Afternoon Everyone:

My question to the group is does anyone have any more information, pictures, manual references on what was in the tail gate mounting kit the service bulletin mentions? Many thanks in advance.

Regards,

Walter

Hopefully, this will answer some of your questions here:

Bill

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Posted: 25 Feb. 2023 at 6:44pm

rocnroll wrote:

Before any undergarments get 'wadded up' what most deputies seem to be missing in this (and other) numbers discussions is the most always there Willys Disclaimer.....and it is present in this case, both the beginning and ending numbers have the disclaimer, wait for it........."with some exceptions" and "with certain exceptions". Approve

Which is why with some exceptions and with certain exceptions these production numbers discussions always bore me to death. Dead

Conjecture.

Wadded undergarments is what we do best here on the Page!

Make one statement or ask a particular question and watch the wolves pick at it until the post is hijacked or it is beat so much we grow tired of the supposed answer. It is in all good fun though.

P.S. Sorry you died

We will miss your comments for sure!

1945 CJ2A #10536
1948 CJ2A #176528 "Elmer"
1948 CJ2A #155970 "Gray Mule"
1948 CJ2A #155365 "Old Yeller" (GONE)
BANTAM T3C # 6147 (GONE)
BANTAM T3C # 30856

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