Grampa's Cj2a |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Started working on fabbing up a slider/skid plate for the pedal cross tube this slider will also protect the exposed end of the transmission support cross member.
Here's the supplies I bough. A six foot piece of 3/16 x 6 in steel plate, and a 7 ft piece of 1 1/2 wide steel angle iron. Cost me about 20 bucks at the local steel supply place (Boman and Kemp). This should be enough to build sliders for both sides of the cross member. I'm concentrating on the cross tube side for now. I'll be putting together something similar to this drawing by jpet, but not the same. The rear bolts will be in angle iron going perpendicular to the frame and bolting into the front and rear bolts on the cross member. The angle iron will extend across to the start of the bend in the cross tube that starts down under the transmission. Hopefully this will give the slider enough side to side stability since all the bolts will be in a line. The front bolts will be in angle iron going up to the bolts that hold the tub and fender on the frame. I will also be adding a rear plate that angles up to the frame behind the cross tube. For now I am not going to bold this rear section. I'll just hope that banging up against the frame is enough stability for it there. That may change if it gets jacked around. I'll have more pics and descriptions as I go along. For now I have just been cutting and dry fitting the pieces.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Pretty neat idea, I'm following along. A thought - will you drill a hole in the plate to access the pedal tube grease zerk?
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Ha! Hadn't even thought about that. The zerk is long gone and I have just greased that spot by hand when I've had it apart. Not in the plan for now, but probably should be.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Awesome! I cant wait to see what you come up with!
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Here’s what I have so far.
I cut a 10 inch length of the 6 in wide plate for the main bottom plate. I cut two 6 inch lengths of the angle iron and measured out where to drill the bolt hole. I wanted the edge of the angle to butt right up against the top of the cross member so the bulk of any stress is taken by the cross member and not the bolt. With the angle iron against the top of the cross member it didn’t quite reach to the bottom edge of the cross member so I cut a piece of the 3/16 plate to shim the bottom edge of the angle out. I bolted the angle iron on the cross member then tacked the shim plate in place, took it out and welded them together. Bolted the angle and shim assembly back on then tacked the main 10 inch bottom plate onto that. Pulled those off and welded the main plate in place. I bolted the angle/shim/plate assembly back in place then took an 8 inch length of the plate and tacked it in place at a slope in the front of the main plate. The front edge of the plate touched the frame so it will take some of the weight of any hits so the bolts don’t. I then cut two additional lengths of angle iron for the front braces. It took much grinding and fitting to get them the correct shape and length. In this pic you can see the assembly as it sits right now. The front slope plate is only tacked on and the two front angle braces are only dry fit, not welded at all. Here’s a close up of the front braces bolted to the tub mount location and the fender attachment location. Here’s the angle iron, shim plate and bottom plate assembly. Please excuse the ugly welding, it’s what I do. I’ll try and clean it up a little before I paint it. Here’s how the back slope plate will look when I get it welded on. Not going to brace the back slope plate for now. The edge will be against the frame. Those red magnets are pretty handy for holding things in place when you don’t have enough hands, Harbor Freight specials. |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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looks good Stan
I like how you used bolts that where already there. So no holes had to be drilled in the frame. Very cool. And you can run over shopping carts in reverse with the rear slider. One thought I had is you might want to add a support just to the front of the cross tube, It wouldn’t need to be attached to the frame. Just welded to the top of the skid and touching the bottom of the frame ,otherwise you may bend the skid up against the bottom of the clutch arm and lock it from moving. Looking forward to seeing them put to use.
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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If you felt the need to attach it to the frame, you could use the front bolt that holds the cross tube bracket to the frame. No new holes that way, either. Those speed bumps and shopping carts at the mall won't stop you, no sirree! |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Here’s some pics of the finished product.
Paint is still wet. Tomorrow after it dries real well, I’ll bolt it up and take a pic of it all installed. Then if I’m real ambitious I’ll make another one for the other side. According to my wife’s bathroom scale the thing weights 13.6 lbs. Here’s a close up shot so you can see the bolt holes in the angle iron that fits into the cross member. Here’s a shot of the bottom side. I tried to get any bumps ground off so that it would slide over those mall speed bumps easily. It looks like there are some high bumps there, but they are barely discernible when you run your finger over them. Edited by smfulle - 10 Feb. 2018 at 5:44am |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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All right! Now go run over a shopping cart at the mall So we can see some scratches on the paint!
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Stay tuned to the Easter Jeep Safari thread, or come on down to EJS and see for yourself.
Edited by smfulle - 11 Feb. 2018 at 2:23am |
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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I always forget how much stuff hangs under the frame on the stockers.
There are a few ledges on The Pickle that should give that skidplate a good test! |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Stan, did you make a skid plate for the other side too?
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Just finished the passenger side tonight. I made the bottom plate on tnis side shorter and the front sloping plate longer so the slope was shallower and maybe slide a little better. Here’s s picture of the finished drivers side. Pictures aren’t very good. |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4139 |
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Should work fine but ....
I really think you could have gotten by with much less plate width to help keep the the weight down. I think 2" wide with more skid to frame upright supports would have worked better. The skid to frame supports would not all need to be bolted in place. Just welded to the skid. Now you have to loose about 30 pounds. So good luck with your new diet plan. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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64CJ5
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 15 Nov. 2013 Location: NE Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 941 |
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Stan, Looking at your skid, it ends and leaves the spring hanger exposed to what ever you are sliding over. Looks to me like extending the skid to protect the spring hanger would be easy and worth the effort and materials. Just a thought.
Tom |
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64CJ5 "Eeyore"
01TJ "Tigger" 52 M38 Severely demilitarized, "Popeye" The Coast Guard Jeep. 14 JK "Jake" To Trust Government Defys Both History and Reason. PUBLIC LAND Owner/User |
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13563 |
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......'rock surfin'....... you heard it here first!
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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I need it a bit wide on the drivers side to protect the pedal cross tube, then just went with the same stuff on the pass side. If I can move 30 pounds from the seat to below the frame, that should change the center of gravity so that I never have to worry about rollovers right? That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I thought about that, but my librarian brain couldn't get wrapped around how to do it. And I figure that the springs have been working as sliders pretty well up until now that I should be alright. I try not to hit anything going fast enough to bend a spring hanger, but that could change.
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 645 |
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That is the key right there. Speed kills.
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1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s
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