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smfulle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2018 at 3:01pm
Started working on fabbing up a slider/skid plate for the pedal cross tube this slider will also protect the exposed end of the transmission support cross member.

Here's the supplies I bough. A six foot piece of 3/16 x 6 in steel plate, and a 7 ft piece of 1 1/2 wide steel angle iron. Cost me about 20 bucks at the local steel supply place (Boman and Kemp). This should be enough to build sliders for both sides of the cross member. I'm concentrating on the cross tube side for now.


I'll be putting together something similar to this drawing by jpet, but not the same. The rear bolts will be in angle iron going perpendicular to the frame and bolting into the front and rear bolts on the cross member. The angle iron will extend across to the start of the bend in the cross tube that starts down under the transmission. Hopefully this will give the slider enough side to side stability since all the bolts will be in a line. 
 The front bolts will be in angle iron going up to the bolts that hold the tub and fender on the frame.  I will also be adding a rear plate that angles up to the frame behind the cross tube. For now I am not going to bold this rear section. I'll just hope that banging up against the frame is enough stability for it there.  That may change if it gets jacked around.


 
I'll have more pics and descriptions as I go along. For now I have just been cutting and dry fitting the pieces. 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2018 at 3:19pm
Pretty neat idea, I'm following along.  A thought - will you drill a hole in the plate to access the pedal tube grease zerk? 
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2018 at 3:23pm
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Pretty neat idea, I'm following along.  A thought - will you drill a hole in the plate to access the pedal tube grease zerk? 

Ha! Hadn't even thought about that. The zerk is long gone and I have just greased that spot by hand when I've had it apart. 

Not in the plan for now, but probably should be. 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2018 at 3:34pm
Awesome! I cant wait to see what you come up with! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 5:00am
Here’s what I have so far.

I cut a 10 inch length of the 6 in wide plate for the main bottom plate. I cut two 6 inch lengths of the angle iron and measured out where to drill the bolt hole. I wanted the edge of the angle to butt right up against the top of the cross member so the bulk of any stress is taken by the cross member and not the bolt. With the angle iron against the top of the cross member it didn’t quite reach to the bottom edge of the cross member so I cut a piece of the 3/16 plate to shim the bottom edge of the angle out. 

I bolted the angle iron on the cross member then tacked the shim plate in place, took it out and welded them together. Bolted the angle and shim assembly back on then tacked the main 10 inch bottom plate onto that. Pulled those off and welded the main plate in place. 

I bolted the angle/shim/plate assembly back in place then took an 8 inch length of the plate and tacked it in place at a slope in the front of the main plate. The front edge of the plate touched the frame so it will take some of the weight of any hits so the bolts don’t.

I then cut two additional lengths of angle iron for the front braces. It took much grinding and fitting to get them the correct shape and length.

In this pic you can see the assembly as it sits right now. The front slope plate is only tacked on and the two front angle braces are only dry fit, not welded at all.


Here’s a close up of the front braces bolted to the tub mount location and the fender attachment location.



Here’s the angle iron, shim plate and bottom plate assembly. Please excuse the ugly welding, it’s what I do. I’ll try and clean it up a little before I paint it.


Here’s how the back slope plate will look when I get it welded on. Not going to brace the back slope plate for now. The edge will be against the frame. Those red magnets are pretty handy for holding things in place when you don’t have enough hands,  Harbor Freight specials.




Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb. 2018 at 5:31am
looks good Stan
I like how you used bolts that where already there. So no holes had to be drilled in the frame. 
Very cool. 
And you can run over shopping carts in reverse with the rear slider. Clap

One thought I had is you might want to add a support just to the front of the cross tube, It wouldn’t need to be attached to the frame. Just welded to the top of the skid and touching the bottom of the frame ,otherwise you may bend the skid up against the bottom of the clutch arm and lock it from moving. 

Looking forward to seeing them put to use. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2018 at 5:21am
Originally posted by Flatfender Ben Flatfender Ben wrote:

One thought I had is you might want to add a support just to the front of the cross tube, It wouldn’t need to be attached to the frame. Just welded to the top of the skid and touching the bottom of the frame ,otherwise you may bend the skid up against the bottom of the clutch arm and lock it from moving.


If you felt the need to attach it to the frame, you could use the front bolt that holds the cross tube bracket to the frame.  No new holes that way, either.  Those speed bumps and shopping carts at the mall won't stop you, no sirree!  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2018 at 5:39am
Here’s some pics of the finished product. 

Paint is still wet. Tomorrow after it dries real well, I’ll bolt it up and take a pic of it all installed. Then if I’m real ambitious I’ll make another one for the other side.

According to my wife’s bathroom scale the thing weights 13.6 lbs.





Here’s a close up shot so you can see the bolt holes in the angle iron that fits into the cross member.





Here’s a shot of the bottom side. I tried to get any bumps ground off so that it would slide over those mall speed bumps easily. It looks like there are some high bumps there, but they are barely discernible when you run your finger over them.




Edited by smfulle - 10 Feb. 2018 at 5:44am
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2018 at 6:52am
All right! Now go run over a shopping cart at the mall So we can see some scratches on the paint!

 Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2018 at 3:55pm
Originally posted by Flatfender Ben Flatfender Ben wrote:

All right! Now go run over a shopping cart at the mall So we can see some scratches on the paint!

 Big smile

Stay tuned to the Easter Jeep Safari thread, or come on down to EJS and see for yourself.


Edited by smfulle - 11 Feb. 2018 at 2:23am
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2018 at 10:35pm
I always forget how much stuff hangs under the frame on the stockers. 
There are a few ledges on The Pickle that should give that skidplate a good test! 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2018 at 3:48am
Stan, did you make a skid plate for the other side too?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2018 at 5:21am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Stan, did you make a skid plate for the other side too?

Just finished the passenger side tonight. I made the bottom plate on tnis side shorter and the front sloping plate longer so the slope was shallower and maybe slide a little better.



Here’s s picture of the finished drivers side. Pictures aren’t very good.


Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2018 at 3:49pm
Should work fine but ....

I really think you could have gotten by with  much less plate width to help keep the the weight down. 
I think 2" wide with more skid to frame upright supports would have worked better.
The skid to frame supports would not all need to be bolted in place. 
Just welded to the skid.

Now you have to loose about 30 pounds. 
So good luck with your new diet plan. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64CJ5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2018 at 4:00pm
Stan,  Looking at your skid, it ends and leaves the spring hanger exposed to what ever you are sliding over.  Looks to me like extending the skid to protect the spring hanger would be easy and worth the effort and materials.  Just a thought. 

Tom  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2018 at 4:54pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Should work fine but ....

I really think you could have gotten by with  much less plate width to help keep the the weight down. 
I think 2" wide with more skid to frame upright supports would have worked better.
The skid to frame supports would not all need to be bolted in place. 
Just welded to the skid.

Now you have to loose about 30 pounds. 
So good luck with your new diet plan. Wink

I need it a bit wide on the drivers side to protect the pedal cross tube, then just went with the same stuff on the pass side. 

If I can move 30 pounds from the seat to below the frame, that should change the center of gravity so that I never have to worry about rollovers right? That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Smile  

Originally posted by 64CJ5 64CJ5 wrote:

Stan,  Looking at your skid, it ends and leaves the spring hanger exposed to what ever you are sliding over.  Looks to me like extending the skid to protect the spring hanger would be easy and worth the effort and materials.  Just a thought. 

Tom  

I thought about that, but my librarian brain couldn't get wrapped around how to do it. And I figure that the springs have been working as sliders pretty well up until now that I should be alright. I try not to hit anything going fast enough to bend a spring hanger, but that could change. 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2018 at 6:57pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

I try not to hit anything going fast enough  

That is the key right there.
Speed kills.
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