Grampa's Cj2a |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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What were we talking about?
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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Here’s a little after action report on the pedal cross tube/cross member skid plate I built and described on page 18 of this thread..
As some suggested, I should have put another leg on the thing as close to the crossover tube as I could. After banging around for a week on the rocks of Moab it got bent up into the clutch pedal a little. It made it a little difficult to get the clutch fully depressed because the bolt on the pedal arm would bind against the plate. So I decided better late than never and after bending it back away from the tube came up with the idea to make a leg out of a couple of pieces of angle iron. I got it tacked in while still on the Jeep then pulled it off for the heavy welding. My welding is still not great, but it is getting better. I got a hood with a big window and put a cheater lens in it. Got some pretty good penetration. Here’s the finished product. close up. |
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TateC
Member Joined: 23 Feb. 2018 Location: SLC, Utah Status: Offline Points: 510 |
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It looks good and I bet it will be very effective on trails.
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687 1943 Willys MB #263100 1944 Ford GPW #234613 1945 Willys CJ2A #10226 |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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On our ride on Cliffhanger a few weeks ago I got a flat tire. While changing the tire I noticed the bolts holding the drive flange on were a bit loose. When I tightened them up a coup,e of them went soft. I didn’t get to aggressive with them and they held fine during the ride.
Today I decided to finally take some corrective action on them. So when I put the wrench o. Them, four of them were soft. So four of the six bolts were stripped. One of the previous two I had helicoiled earlier, so really only one of the original threads are still good. I got my helicoil kit out and got some more inserts. The tap went in ok so that I didn’t have to use a drill. Got them al, tapped out and the inserts in. I used a little threadlock blue on the bolts so hopefully they won’t back out any more. I think this issue might go back to several different occasions when I used my impact gun to tighten these bolts up after disassembly for varprious reasons. I’m thinking I pulled the threads somewhat and the pounding I put on the thing finally did them in. I always have to learn lessons the hard way, but I didn’t use the impact gun this time.
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Rick Cline
Member Joined: 01 Nov. 2010 Location: Omaha, Ne Status: Offline Points: 218 |
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I'm glad the repair worked out for you Stan. Edited by Rick Cline - 27 May 2018 at 5:51am |
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"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking."
- General George Patton Jr |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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on a recent visit to The Black Hills I managed to lightly bump into a couple of rocks and ended up breaking the passenger side tie rod and bending the drivers side.
I’ve been pondering whether it would be better to beef up my tie rod strength to maybe have less damage to the tubes but risk moving the weak point to the tie rod end, or even the knuckle or some other more difficult to repair/replace part, or to keep the stock arrangement. For now I’ve decided to stay with the stock tie rods with them as kind of a shear pin for the front steering and then to carry spare tie rods in my Jeep on the trail. Much easier to swap out a tie rod on the trail than a knuckle or a bell crank. All that having been said, for now I’m keeping the tie rod that Jeff (Jpet) welded back together for me on the trail with his battery powered stick welding kit, because it’s just too cool to replace and I think it’s probably stronger than stock anyway. Here’s the before shot of it in case you weren’t following the Black Hills Run thread. Here’s the bent driver’s side that I just replaced. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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After replacing the bent tie rod I decided I should probable go ahead and hit all the grease fittings with the grease gun. About 1/3 of the fittings are broken off. Wonder how that happened?
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Stan, possibly mount a small portable rock crusher on the front to solve these issues?
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Grampa's Jeep is a small portable rock crusher. |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I'd be interested in hearing the detail of this battery powered stick welder. I saw the pic of jpet welding 8n the Black Hills thread, but I'm curious about the welding rig and how it works. Thanks
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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All it is is a couple batteries hooked in series and maybe an electrode holder. Jumper cables if no electrode holder. 24 volts DC, proper ground, proper rod, yer weldin'!
Oh, and proper eye protection, too! Edited by Ol' Unreliable - 05 July 2018 at 12:27am |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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Hopefully Jeff will jump in with more detail, but it mostly seems to be enough cables to connect two 12 volt batteries together to make 24 volts, then the right welding rod. Jeff has experimented with different rods and found the one he likes the best.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I just googled it and see how its done now. Pretty clever. I'm curious what rod works best. I've been welding the last couple days making a worm winch mount for my trailer. Been using 6011 and 7014 rods. I like 7018 but don't have the oven necessary to store it.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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wadoyado
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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Stan, is the tie rod that broke original equip? Looks like thinner stock to me for some odd reason. I think JPet said He used E-6013. Joe
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Online Points: 6143 |
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Not original, but "stock" replacement from Walks.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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My kit has a ground cable and clamp but it is not needed if one of the batteries used is already grounded: The rods are 6013 x 1/8" Rick and I tried using 1/16" rods thinking that they would work better but they don't. The 1/8" rod sounds like bacon frying. The lens is a #10, but whatever you use for welding is fine. If you cut the electrodes in half, you can fit them in the ammo can. (Not pictured are welding gloves) |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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aboyandhisdog
Member Joined: 10 June 2011 Location: Fort Collins Status: Offline Points: 465 |
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Pretty cool, Jeff. Is there any risk at all to the elec. components on the vehicle? What if a guy had, say, an electronic dizzy, or a radio, or something?
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Thanks Jeff, that's a great repair kit. I prefer shorter electrodes for better control. While I have plenty of 6013, I'm not crazy about it. But its good to know that it works well. I prefer 6010/6011 for penetration and 7014 for less penetration, but greater strength.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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