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Grampa's Cj2a

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smfulle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 3:12am

A little progress. A couple of weeks ago I headed up to Ft Bridger Wyoming to pick up a block. Serial # 4T30456. Does that mean it's from a 4wd pickup? 

 

 Machine shop has the block. They are boring it out, putting in new valve guides, hardened exhaust seats and making sure all the new valves are seated right.  They are grinding the crank, polishing the cam and installing new cam bearing.  Hopefully it won't be too much longer and I'll have the engine back here so I can start putting it back together.

 

In the mean time I finally got the last part I need to put together my transmission. No one had a oil collector and Kaiser Willy's recommended a guy named Frank and gave me a phone #. Frank sent me a oil collector and an air filter. Nice guy too. Some of you East Coasters might know him. He calls his business “I’ve Got The Willys”.

 

Today I spent the afternoon in the shed putting the transmission back together. It is my first time ever inside any transmission ever. Hope I did it right. It was pretty fun. I sure am grateful for the tips and instructions from this and other web sites. I have a repair manual, but most of the time I need more hand holding.

 

Next up. Tear into the transfer case and see if it needs anything more than seals and gaskets.

 

I pulled the id plate off the firewall and scrubbed it and I think the serial # is 163469. According to Sean’s id # chart, that would make it a 48. I’ve been telling everyone it’s a 47. Hmm….

 

Stan

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankenJeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

A little progress. A couple of weeks ago I headed up to Ft Bridger Wyoming to pick up a block. Serial # 4T30456. Does that mean it's from a 4wd pickup? 

 

Yes, that is a 4wd pickup engine, thanks to Sean for pointing that out on my engine #4T13773.
If your front engine plate with the mounts on it is the same as mine you will need to make an adapter plate for the drivers side mount. If you are in the process of tearing down the engine you may also be able the swap the front plate from a 2a engine.
 
A 2a drivers side mount looks like this.

A 4wd truck drivers side mount looks like this.

Notice that the mount ear on the truck engine continues straight off the top of the timing gear cover while the 2a engine mount is lower.
 
I made an adapter plate from 5/16" steel plate and bolted it to the original mount with Grade 8 bolts.  The upper and lower set of bolt holes are 2-11/16" apart. It looks like this.

 
Another view

 
Here it is with engine mounted. It also required that I rebend the brake line a little to clear it.
 
Hope that helps. I didn't realize the difference until I was lowering the engine into place. Had me scratching my head for a while.


Edited by FrankenJeep - 30 Jan. 2011 at 3:59pm
47 CJ2A
"I never said I could put it back together..." me to my wife
Kevin in Michigan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sireland67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 7:25pm
Most likely the transfer case will need the intermediate shaft replaced, there are three different sizes.
I would also replace all of the bearings.
The good thing is if you did the trans the transfer case is much easier.
 
Blasting media I use is from tractor supply it is called Black Diamonds, a 50 lb bag is only $7.00.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2011 at 5:09am
Since Dan (captianpattson) asked in another thread I thought I give my progress to date.
Got the trans and transfer case rebuilt and married up. Just waiting for the day they can go back into Grampa's Jeep. Bruce W. sent me the correct front engine plate, since the one I had for my first engine was for a chain drive cam, and the 2nd engine I am now using is a gear driven one. Got the 2nd engine back from the machine shop, bored and crank ground, harded exhaust seats and new valves ground to specs.  Turns out the cam I sent to have them polish has a flat fuel pump lobe. I don't really want to go with an electric fuel pump so I ordered a NOS cam from Walcks. It came packed in a cardboard tube wrapped in waxed paper and covered with what looked like bees' wax, but someone here told me was cosmoline preservative. Spent about an hour today with my hands in gasoline scrubbing the cosmoline of off my new cam shaft. Looks like I'm going to have to get this one polished before I dare put in in the motor. Also cleaned up and painted a few small parts. I like my new blast cabinet. Sure beats trying to wire brush everything.
Here's the cam before cleaning. Don't have an after shot. Camera battery died.
 
This is the label from the tube the cam came in.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captianpattson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2011 at 3:55pm
I just got a 1943 Russian Military rifle packed in cosmoline. Its not too tough to get rid of, small parts can be boiled in water on the stove and larger parts can be cleaned with a bit of mineral spirits. Sticking it in the oven will liquify 95% of it too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote maddawg308 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar. 2011 at 7:07pm
It's amazing to think 50, 60 even 70 years after packed in Cosmoline, parts that have been stored away forever still come out looking like they were made yesterday. Self-contained time capsules they are.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2011 at 2:08pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

... Spent about an hour today with my hands in gasoline scrubbing the cosmoline of off my new cam shaft. Looks like I'm going to have to get this one polished before I dare put in in the motor ...
Why, what's wrong with it?  NOS in cosmoline should be good-to-go.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2011 at 3:19pm
Maybe I'm paranoid, but the whole thing seems a bit textured, not mirror smooth. Maybe I just need to rub a little bit harder to shine it up. Or maybe I'm ok. I just hate the idea of putting it all back together and then rubbing the bump off of the lifters with a rough cam lobe.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2011 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Maybe I'm paranoid, but the whole thing seems a bit textured, not mirror smooth. Maybe I just need to rub a little bit harder to shine it up. Or maybe I'm ok.
Compare to NOS chain cam:


Quote I just hate the idea of putting it all back together and then rubbing the bump off of the lifters with a rough cam lobe.
You're gonna use new lifters I hope?

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar. 2011 at 3:57pm
x2 on Sean's comment......I wouldn't think two seconds about putting a NOS cam in without new lifters.
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 4:32am
I did some more rubbing on the cam shaft and it still LOOKS textured. It feels smooth though. I wonder if it could be stained from the 50 years coverend in that goo. Here's a couple of shots of how it looks.
Any opinions?
 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 10:40am
The short answer is to use that camshaft.  As long as all of the cosmoline is off the shaft, it should be fine.  If you cannot feel any imperfections or high spots on the machined surfaces, that is a good test.
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 2:01pm
Thanks Sam,
Thanks kind of what I am thinking, but my experience here is zero.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 2:15pm
and use new lifters!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 4:06pm
Well Sean, I was thinking of pinching pennies because cash is running out on this project, and these old lifters LOOK ok, but I think you and a couple of others have convinced me. I'll use new lifters.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2011 at 4:59pm
Can't a good machine shop resurface lifters with the radius originally on them? I remember doing it on a valve grinder machine back in college somehow..
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar. 2011 at 1:11am
While waiting for my new lifters to be delivered I decided to dive into the steering. Had about 1/3 turn play in the wheel before any tires moved. Looked at the steering box, loose bushings. Pitman arm ball, egg shaped. Bell crank ball, egg shaped, bearings loose. Tie rods, lots of slop. So I decided I needed to rebuild the box and replace everything else. Bell crank is rare type that is hard to find and expensive. Got one coming from Walck's but I had to send my first grandson to them in exchange Wink.
I started taking everything apart and found an interesting piece of field engineering. The steering collum was wrapped in a piece of heating duct, clamped on with two worm clamps.
 
 
Turns out the tube was busted right in two.
 
 
So now I'm going to have new steering from the steering wheel to the last tie rod end.
Money, who needs it.


Edited by smfulle - 31 Mar. 2011 at 2:55am
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sireland67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar. 2011 at 2:12am
Walcks sells the steering tube, the one he sent me was NOS.
Talking camshafts, run that one, just lightly wet sand it with some 1500 to 2000 grit to polish it.
I put a NOS cam in mine and I feel your pain on cleaning it.
I also used NOS lifters in mine that came in with a 'f" stamp on each one.  And yes you get the enjoyment of cleaning something that somebody's grandfather / grandmother packaged 60 years ago.Clap
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