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Correct Transmission Fluid?

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jaksjep View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaksjep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Correct Transmission Fluid?
    Posted: 06 Feb. 2023 at 9:48pm
NAPA GL1 Link:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=mineral%20gear%20oil&referer=v2


Tractor Supply GL1 oil:



Edited by jaksjep - 06 Feb. 2023 at 9:49pm
My posts are my personal opinion and are not legal advice as I am not an attorney. If you act on any of my comments you do so at your own risk.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerry45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2018 at 3:06am
Thanks guys! I think that answered it! Idiot have a Tractor Supply not too far away!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2018 at 11:53pm
I use the a Tractor Supply GL-1, it seems to work just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SYLVANWILLYS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2018 at 11:30pm
I bought the 5 gallon pail of Valvoline GL1 seven years ago and it has worked well.   Was the smallest size they sold back then that I could find.

Just googled   Valvoline 70044   and it is still be available from many sources.  Not sure if it is now available in smaller sizes.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srlbotanical Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2018 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by Jerry45 Jerry45 wrote:

not to beat a dead horse on this is thread, but I'm gonna replace the transmission and transfer lubricant and though this thread seems to point to using GL-1 for the transmission, the manual states GL-4 is recommended. 
Simply put, should I just order the GL-1 from NAPA?

Do you have a tractor supply in your area?

This is the Napa oil you want if you go that direction.


The TSC stuff is less expensive.



Edited by srlbotanical - 30 May 2018 at 7:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerry45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2018 at 4:28pm
not to beat a dead horse on this is thread, but I'm gonna replace the transmission and transfer lubricant and though this thread seems to point to using GL-1 for the transmission, the manual states GL-4 is recommended. 
Simply put, should I just order the GL-1 from NAPA?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiverDownJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2012 at 3:10am
I did some looking into my chem books, and I have found what I think is the answer to our sulfur lubricant quandry.  The lubricants are made from Sulphurized long chain fatty acids, which means several long chains of Hydrogen and Carbon which are neutral, with a polar head group, composed of Phosphorus, in this case Sulfur, and oxygen.  These transmissions, being unsealed to the atmosphere, allow minor amounts of water vapor, found in the air, to reach the surface of the oil.  If the sulfurized fatty acid has a double bond located near the sulfur, it can convert into what is known as a resonance structure, meaning the double bond can move between two or more different locations.  During this resonance, the Hydrogen attached to the sulfur becomes weakly bonded, and can be picked up by the oxygen in the water vapor, producing a weak acid, but an acid none the less (H3O).  This acid dissolves the tin in the bronze, forming a salt, and the copper is left over undissolved, hence the coppery fluid that you end up with (tiny bits of copper).  Finally, I'm including an example reaction to show the production of the acid.  Without the resonance, the hydrogen is very difficult to detach from the sulfur, and so will not produce acid, and will not eat the tin.  Hope this helps explain why some are bad and some are good. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote subsonic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2012 at 2:36am
Originally posted by chris chris wrote:

What about this oil sold at Tractor Supply for Ford tractors??

http://www.tractorsupply.com/traveller-reg-ford-tractor-all-mineral-90-transmission-fluid-2-gal--0806600

Is this stuff the correct viscosity?  Or is the GL 1 NAPA oil the only choice right now??

Great thread by the way .... !!
 
I saw this at Tractor Supply this weekend.  It does state it is SAE90 on the Jug and that it is GL1  I read the back and it mentioned how it was designed for Ford tractor transmissions from the 30s to 50s.  I think it would be fine in a Willys transmission. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hooligan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2012 at 11:12am
Older post I know but this site (http://www.widman.biz/English/index.html), while in Bolivia, has a couple of good white papers on gear and engine oil, as well as interesting in general. The white papers are down at the bottom of the page but I think these links will work...

"Selection of the Right Motor Oil"
"The difference between GL-4 and GL-5"

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brachus12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2012 at 12:25pm
Must be a regional type thing. The first Napa I went to near work had a single jug of SAE90 GL1, the one closest to the Jeep had 11!

BTW, cheap hand pump failed straight out of the package. Napa's fluid suction tool worked much better! The larger hose barely fit into the Xfer case and made it much quicker!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2012 at 2:19am
Samcj2a;

Nice chart!  I'm stealing that.   :)

Your description regarding ISO vs SAE jogged some of my brain cells.  As they say, "it all started to come back to me"!  However, the chart is real nice.

I saw that oil in Tractor Supply after reading this thread and wondered if it would be OK.  I think I might give it a try.  It does seem to be another option.

Thanks again ... great stuff and a great thread.
chris

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2012 at 1:42am
I think it is fine since it says SAE 90.  ISO viscosity is a different unit of measure than SAE viscosity.  One source says that there is a difference of approximately 100 between the two.  My guess is that the 100 difference is closer for SEA 30 weight oil.  in any event, it is clearly an apporximation.  In this case for an SAE 90, it appears to be 80.  I would rely on the SAE viscosity of 90. 

Edit:  Here is a table of equivalent measures of viscosity so you can see that there is range of ISO viscosity values that are equivalent to SAE 90 viscosity.  Again, since the TSC lubricant is SAE 90, it is correct for the Willys.




Edited by samcj2a - 26 June 2012 at 1:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2012 at 1:23am
What about this oil sold at Tractor Supply for Ford tractors??

http://www.tractorsupply.com/traveller-reg-ford-tractor-all-mineral-90-transmission-fluid-2-gal--0806600

Is this stuff the correct viscosity?  Or is the GL 1 NAPA oil the only choice right now??

Great thread by the way .... !!
chris

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2012 at 3:15pm
Call NAPA first.  They had to order my GL-1 from a warehouse.  It took only one day, though.

I would drain the old stuff first and then add the kerosene.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brachus12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2012 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by Carlsjeep Carlsjeep wrote:

 
You may want to flush the tranny and transfer cases with kerosene. Jack the rear wheels up and run it in high gear a few minutes at idle to stir it up and drain it. Don't drive it with the kerosene in it. Two minutes or less should work. You may have already damaged the blocking rings and only time will tell.

Could someone elaborate on this process? Do I drain what's in there first, then add kerosene? How much?

I pulled the transmission cover off Bugger yesterday to take a look at things. (Can't get into 2nd while rolling unless I double clutch) Level is low, but at least its not a rusty mess!


Headed to NAPA later for GL1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2012 at 5:22pm
I found that product at Advance Auto and, after looking into it, found that it was designed for certain GM and, I think Chrysler, contemporary vehicles.  The viscosity is not correct for our T-90s, I think.  Since NAPA carries the straight mineral oil called for and the product number is known for the US stores, why take a chance on something where the label mentions only certain vehicles?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FlaJoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2012 at 4:35pm
   Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid. 

  Has anyone checked out this stuff?   According to their website; "It provides excellent oxidation stability, low temperature performance, excellent synchronizer performance and compatibility with yellow metals, such as bronze, brass and copper components found in manual transaxles and transmissions."  an aanlysis of the oil found that "consist of a 5W30 non-detergent oil with a friction modifer and an EP (extreme pressure) additive". The use of EP additives concerns me.

   More details can be found here http://www.stealth316.com/2-pennzoil-synchromesh.htm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2012 at 3:33pm
The sources that I have read state that MT-1 designates a lubricant with extreme pressure (EP) additives designed for non-synchronized transmissions.  That is not what the T-90 is which is why it has the yellow metal synchronizer rings.  Some EP additives destroy these metals.  I would be cautious about using that lubricant.
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