Front Differential Seal Replacement

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I am sure that this topic has been asked before... my front diff seal is leaking.  I looked at the Repair Manual.  Do I need to remove the wheels, hubs, etc out on each side in order to pull out the shaft on the diff?  Do I need to take the diff fully apart to be able to replace the seal?  According to the Repair Manual, I need around 4 tools to make this happen.  Which of the above is fact or fiction?  Anyone have dos and don'ts?  Short cuts? 
Your comments are much appreciated!

Ralph

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TheRevPop Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 05 Apr. 2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote TheRevPop Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Front Differential Seal Replacement Posted: 16 July 2011 at 4:45am
	I am sure that this topic has been asked before... my front diff seal is leaking. I looked at the Repair Manual. Do I need to remove the wheels, hubs, etc out on each side in order to pull out the shaft on the diff? Do I need to take the diff fully apart to be able to replace the seal? According to the Repair Manual, I need around 4 tools to make this happen. Which of the above is fact or fiction? Anyone have dos and don'ts? Short cuts? Your comments are much appreciated! Ralph
	Ralph Rebandt

TERRY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400	Post Options Post Reply Quote TERRY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2011 at 3:32pm
	Are you referring to the seal for the drive shaft ? If so, just remove the large nut and companion flange, pry out the seal and replace. A steering wheel puller bolted to the flange ears helps, and heating before installing the flange helps. Just boil it in a baggie, don't want it hot enough to ruin the new seal.
	BOULDER 48 2A

ovrlnd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746	Post Options Post Reply Quote ovrlnd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2011 at 3:35pm
	if you're speaking of the inner shaft seals then you'll need to do: 1. remove the cover and drain fluid 2. remove the front spindle nuts 3. remove the drums 4. remove the spindles 5. pull out the axle shafts (good time to give them maintenance if needed) 6. remove the carrier bearing caps (NOTE: MARK THEM AS TO WHICH SIDE EACH ONE GOES ON AND WHAT IS TOP AND BOTTOM SO THEY GO BACK TOGETHER THE SAME. VERY IMPORTANT) 7. pry out the carrier, ring gear and carrier bearing assembly. (NOTE: KEEP THE RACES WITH THE RIGHT BEARING SIDES, DO NOT INTERCHANGE THEM) change carrier bearings if necessary at this time. 8. use a hook type seal puller and remove the old seals in the tubes. 9. spray some brake cleaner or similar in there and clean it out. scotchbrite the seal area if it's gunked up. 10. tap new seals in place so they stay put. 11. this part is much easier if you have 2 people but will just take longer if you are alone. I would install the passenger side seal first. use a seal driver end if you have one or get yourself a piece of pvc close to the outside diameter of the seal as possible put a cap on the end of it, it will need to be short to fit in the axle housing. now insert a long straight stick, pipe, pvc, etc in the end of the tube so it hits your seal driver. tap the end of the shaft to seat the seal. then do the driver side. you'll just need a shorter length to insert into the tube and make sure it's smaller than that of the I.D. of the new seal. tap it into place. a friend of mine made his own seal tool by using 2 seats threaded rod and a turnbuckle that pushed them in with the turn of a wrench. very handy. 12. apply a small amount of grease around the new seals 13. reinstall carrier. sometimes it can be hard without a case spreader so a block of wood and a dead blow with some taps will seat the races back into the housing. 14. reinstall carrier bearing main caps 15. reinstall axle shafts being careful not to jamb them into the new seal and eff it up. 16. clean up back of spindle apply a smear of rtv on the backside to seal it up and reinstall. 17. reinstall drum and hub assembly and install spindle nuts 18. reinstall flange or lockouts using appropriate gasket or sealant. 19. turn front drive shaft to ensure everything is working correctly 20. clean housing cover mating surface as well as back of cover 21. install gasket or sealant to housing and install cover (if using rtv I let it set up at least a few hours before refilling. I use ultra copper rtv. 22. fill with fluid to the appropriate level.

TheRevPop Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 05 Apr. 2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote TheRevPop Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2011 at 6:45pm
	Fellas, in your experience if there is leak in the front diff, is it usually the front seal that would require changing, rather than all the work to break down the front axle?
	Ralph Rebandt

TERRY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400	Post Options Post Reply Quote TERRY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2011 at 7:23pm
	Where is the leak?? The ones that require a teardown are going to let lube out through the axle housings. The pinion/drive flange seal will drip on the outside at the u-joint area, The cover gasket will leak at the front. Mine have always been drive flange seals. Sometimes the seal surface on the flange is worn and needs a Ready Sleeve or replaced.
	BOULDER 48 2A

ovrlnd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746	Post Options Post Reply Quote ovrlnd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 July 2011 at 9:49pm
	if it's coming out of where the cover goes to the housing. remove the cover scrape and scotchbrite the cover and the housing mating surfaces, wipe both with alcohol apply rtv to the housing, bolt back together.