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Carb adjustment info? |
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Garp 
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Joined: 24 June 2011 Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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 Topic: Carb adjustment info?Posted: 12 Aug. 2011 at 11:41pm |
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On my new plugs, they look pretty carbon fouled after less than an hour of use. They look like this:
 So I thought, there's got to be a mixture adjustment screw or two.... oh crap, what are all these screws for LOL.... Any input as to each of their functions would be appreciated:  |
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lowenuf
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Posted: 12 Aug. 2011 at 11:49pm |
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the ONLY one you need to be concerned with is #5......the rest are just jet retaining screws except for #4, which is a vacuum port........ #5 is your air mixture set screw.......carefully run it in (clockwise) until the need seats, again, carefully so not to destroy the pointed tip, then back it out (counterclockwise) 1 1/2 turns....this is Carter's starting point for running the vehicle...
engine should start and run, and after it warms up, you adjust this screw in or out to achieve a smooth running condition....
idle RPM should be set at 600-900......i like about 700 rpm's... Edited by lowenuf - 12 Aug. 2011 at 11:50pm |
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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Garp
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 12:16am |
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Mine's hanging out about 900 RPM, there's a set screw on the rear right of the throttle linkage that looks like it should adjust the idle, but it is already backed out not seating on anything so it can only make it idle faster at this point.
Thanks for the information, Ill try adjusting 5 to see whats up with it, thanks! G |
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bkreutz
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 12:24am |
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Ditto what Low said, if your plugs look like that after driving, the idle mixture isn't going to do much to correct that. I can think of a few causes for that but before you start changing a bunch of stuff reading about your carb might be more helpful so when you dive into the carb you'll have a better understanding of how everything relates. http://mightymo.org/Proj_carter_wo_101.htm
Edited by bkreutz - 13 Aug. 2011 at 12:27am |
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Garp
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 12:48am |
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The #5 screw had no effect on idle. always about 900. thanks for the link to that site!
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lowenuf
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 1:11am |
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if turning #5 made no rpm difference, hence rough idle Vs. smooth idle, you might have a slight vaccum leak somewhere....
or a faulty low speed jet...
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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Howard
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 1:57am |
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Hi,
I can't really tell from your photo, but the air cleaner must be clean as well to provide proper fuel/air mix. That paper element looks a little dirty? Do not bother with blowing out a paper element, it just compromises its capacity to properly catch the dirt before entering into the engine.
As you are finding, there are many things that can contribute to your carb not delivering fuel properly.
I was also curious about the location of the jeep, at what elevation? Higher elevation means thinner air...usually creating a richer mixture and a dirtier burn as a result.
I do not recall of smaller jet sizes being available for these carbs...they can compenate for higher elevations.
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Howard F Jewett
1946 CJ2A #23353 43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014 43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844 52 M100 K1119 |
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DiverDownJames
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 2:54am |
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Your throttle is also not connected to your choke, could be that because the choke isn't opening more when you give it gas, it is burning too rich at those times?
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Garp
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 3:09am |
I tried to move the choke, it's stuck, so the cable's probably stuck. Is it supposed to move when the throttle moves? If so the linkage between the two is gone. Im seeing lots of missing things on the carb... |
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Garp
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 3:21am |
4400 feet above sea level. |
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rocketeer
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 3:28am |
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That carb is completely screwed up. The linkage at the choke is assembled wrong and isn't connected to the throttle linkage. You're running with the choke on that's why it's running rich. That carb needs a complete rebuild with the correct missing parts added back on.
 Larry |
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Garp
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 5:41am |
That's sort of what I figured when I started looking at everyone else's carb pics. Everyone has way more stuff LOL. I will disconnect the choke cable for now, and add it to my growing list of things to order along with a carb rebuild kit. If it;s not connected, will the choke return to not-choked position? I have a can of springs I can use to hold it in a particular position if someone can let me know where to hold it so it's not 'choking' rich all the time. I will keep my eyes out for a complete rebuild-able carb with all the parts in the meantime. Thanks so much for the help. G |
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bkreutz
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 7:07am |
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You can tell by looking down the throat of the carb, the flap should be open in the unchoked position. You will need the choke (flap closed, or partially closed) to get it started (at least mine doesn't start without choke) and then open it up when it warms up. What the choke does is restrict the air flow resulting in a richer fuel/air mixture which is needed when the engine isn't at operating temperature.
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rocketeer
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 12:04pm |
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Gale's right on, just disconnecting the choke isn't going to solve everything as you need the choke to be working to start a cold engine and to be able to drive until the engine warms up.
Larry |
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Garp
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2011 at 6:45pm |
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The flap was 3/4 open and unmoveable so I disconnected the cable which is seized in it's sleeve and spring'd it wide open. Had to push it partially closed to start of course, and then let it stay wide open. No apparent difference in sound, performance or affecting the cutout.
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Carlsjeep
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Posted: 14 Aug. 2011 at 8:45pm |
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If you buy a complete rebuild kit for your carb be sure to read the Willys shop manual and some on line manuals about rebuilding and adjusting the metering rod. That adjustment is very important to get right so the engine has the right air/fuel mixture.
Another thing is to start with a spark plug in the middle of the heat range. A hot or cold plug will also affect the plug color. Also, if your throttle shaft is loose in the carb body you will have trouble getting the engine to idle at the correct rpm. Since yours is idling at 900 rpm I suspect it's sucking air there and if you tried to slow it down it may not want to idle correctly. A good indication of not being able to idle an engine down smoothly is sucking air at the throttle shaft or a vacuum leak at a gasket. Idling the engine down requires dropping the idle then adjusting the air mixture screw #5, dropping the idle and adjusting the air screw until it's at the rpm you want but don't try to set it to low. You adjust the air mixture screw using a vacuum gauge or by ear if you have some experience at doing it. When I rebuilt my carb I had to bore the throttle shaft hole and make a new oversize throttle shaft. I also had to do the same to the choke shaft. I tried to find a new replacement shaft and could not find one. Setting the metering rod is one of the most important steps in the overhaul so read and understand exactly how to do it.
Edited by Carlsjeep - 14 Aug. 2011 at 8:51pm |
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DiverDownJames wrote: