Fluid pumping out master cylinder |
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Jim Bow
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2005 Location: Portland, OR Status: Offline Points: 134 |
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Posted: 17 Aug. 2011 at 6:02pm |
I've only bled brakes a few times in my life. In the past I have left the cap off the MC for re-filling as I go along. This time, as I push the brake, the fluid comes out the top and spills over the side. This shouldn't happen, should it?
I kneel beside the jeep and push with my hand. |
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Harveynailbanger
Member Joined: 23 July 2010 Location: Long Beach,MS Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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how are you opening and closing bleeder valves?
I normally get the mrs to push and hold the brake pedal for me , as I open and close the bleeder screws , starting with the closest one first (drivers front, pass front, drivers rear, pass rear) dont fill up the reservior full and it might be a good idea to put the cap on loosely ,that way you can be a little more aggresive on the pedal until you get brake fluid all thru the m/c the check valve doesnt work that well. if you still have issues the check valve may be hung up. cheers rick Edited by Harveynailbanger - 17 Aug. 2011 at 6:15pm |
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if the grass is greener on the other side, try waterin your grass.
"I hope I'm half the person that my dogs think I am" I only do what the voices in my toolbox tell me to. 46 CJ2A 71804 |
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munkjeep
Member Joined: 01 July 2008 Location: Central, KY Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Shouldn't that be the one most far away ?
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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On the jeep when you let up the pedal the fluid returns in a passageway that aims right at the fill opening. That's why it spills over. Also the second passageway that bleeds off residual pressure in the system squirts a little at the start of the downward stroke of the pedal.
Leave the lid on, It can be loose , but ON.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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Carlsjeep
Member Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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When you push down on the brake pedal it had better squirt brake fluid up. If it don't then the pressure will build up in the brake system and lock the brakes up.
When you put a master cylinder on you need to be sure the push rod is coming back far enough to open the bleed hole in the master cylinder so the pressure won't build up. In the piston area is a check/pressure relief valve that hold fluid in the lines at a certain pressure and if the fluid expands it lets the extra fluid back through the piston into the reservoir. One of the tests when you install a master cylinder is to see if fluid spurts up when you push the pedal. When your bleeding the brakes lay the cap back on top the reservoir to keep the fluid in and the dirt out.
Edited by Carlsjeep - 18 Aug. 2011 at 1:17am |
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Jim Bow
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2005 Location: Portland, OR Status: Offline Points: 134 |
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I've always started with the line farthest from the MC
I'll keep the cap in place. I use this method http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvyztDFHhaY&feature=related |
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Harveynailbanger
Member Joined: 23 July 2010 Location: Long Beach,MS Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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grease on bleeder screw? dont sound like a good idea to me.
perhaps i do have order of bleeders wrong, i have alway worked on the premise that i was "chasing" the air out of the system from nearest point to farthest. have never been a fan of one person brake bleeding to easy to suck air back into bleeder. imo i paid good money for a set once off of the snap on truck, used em once and gave em away. Rick
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if the grass is greener on the other side, try waterin your grass.
"I hope I'm half the person that my dogs think I am" I only do what the voices in my toolbox tell me to. 46 CJ2A 71804 |
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Matt3A
Member Joined: 17 Sep. 2010 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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I replaced my bleeder screws with "Speed Bleeders" per this article on the Vernco site.
They work fine but you waste alot less brake fluid if you have another set of eyes on the bleeder tube to let you know when it's purged.
Matt
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49CJ3A
54CJ3B 78CJ5 2012 Rubicon |
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scoutpilot
Member Joined: 30 Dec. 2008 Location: Asheboro, NC Status: Offline Points: 4373 |
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Is the MC new? Is it a single reservoir or dual? Did you bench-bleed it? After filling, replace and snug cap. Have a brake person depress pedal for you. Start at point furthest from MC. Usually right-rear. Pump pedal 3-5 strokes until firm then hold. Open bleeder and look for clear, bubble-less fluid. Close bleeder when pedal on floor. Do not allow pedal to rise before closing valve. Repeat at that location as necessary. Only then do you move to the next closest. Usually left rear. Refill MC as required. Then right front followed by left. This process has worked for me for decades.
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ralf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 06 May 2008 Location: Fayetteville WV Status: Offline Points: 4861 |
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I use same method as scoutpilot but don't pump the brake. I just have the helper push brake down and hold then I crack the bleeder and tighten it back. I was told that pumping just disperses the air bubbles.
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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scoutpilot
Member Joined: 30 Dec. 2008 Location: Asheboro, NC Status: Offline Points: 4373 |
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If you don't pump the pressure up with multiple pushes you may not have enough pressure to expel aerated fluid as quickly as you want to. You can always refill the MC. By the way, I use a clear hose attached to the bleed valve and feeding into a closed mason jar (Bubba would approve). No mess.
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plowpusher
Member Joined: 20 Oct. 2008 Location: lino lakes mn Status: Offline Points: 581 |
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You should never leave the cap off your master cylinder or even you brake fluid bottle longer than absolutely necessary, it takes moisture from the air and this will lower your brake fluids boiling point.
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when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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Carlsjeep
Member Joined: 15 Jan. 2011 Location: Taylorsville Ky Status: Offline Points: 2642 |
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Yes, you have to pump the brakes up to get pressure in the lines before you bleed them. If you don't it will take much longer to get them bled.
As to leaving the cap off brake fluid or the master cylinder, for the few minutes they are off it won't absorb much if any water. Just in case you don't know, there is an air hole in the cover on the master cylinder to let air in and out as the brake fluid level goes up and down while the brakes are used or the fluid expands and contracts from heat and cooling. Do you have any idea what is in the air that moves in and out the hole it the cap? You guessed it, moisture.
Edited by Carlsjeep - 24 Aug. 2011 at 4:46am |
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plowpusher
Member Joined: 20 Oct. 2008 Location: lino lakes mn Status: Offline Points: 581 |
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ever wonder why they put a rubber diaphram gasket in a mastercylinder cap?
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when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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plowpusher
Member Joined: 20 Oct. 2008 Location: lino lakes mn Status: Offline Points: 581 |
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there are three basic ways to bleed brakes 1. the way scoutpilot discribed with two people- pump pedal- hold pedal- relase fluid- pedal to floor-tighten bleeder - repaet as necessary .2. Use a vacum pump designed for bleeding brakes and suck all the air out 3. Use a pressure bleeder designed for bleeding brakes. Scoutpilots method requires a partner and is probably the easiest for the home mechanic types some of the variations ie. a bottle with a hose submerged in brake fluid bleeders with oneway checkvales work but are either messy or a real PIA to set up.The vacum pump is messy and time consuming and requires a 35.00 vacum pump with a brake bleeding adapter. The regular brake pressure bleeder works great but I bought mine 20 years ago and I think back then it was 100.00
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when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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flattiesrule
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 02 June 2010 Location: Payson, Az. Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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I've always used a pressure bleeder. I got mine from my dad when he got out of the gas station business back in the 70's. It's an oldy, but still works great. Haven't tried it on the 2A yet, as I need to modify a mc cap to accept the quick connect coupler.
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'47 cj2a
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48willys
Member Joined: 22 June 2007 Location: sw/ virginia Status: Offline Points: 1341 |
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I'v always used the mason jar and hose,sometimes I'v had to do it alone and it still worked.Normally I use twice as much fluid in the end though(after rebuilding the whole brake system I figure a good flushing cant hurt anyway ). The good thing with these jeeps is they are almost self bleeding,I'v found as long as you get most of the air out and you have the lines bent much like the oem ones,often the air will work its self out.
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sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
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Pressure bleeding is the best & easiest way, specially if you're solo. If your compressor regulator works at low pressures, it's easy: |
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