'48 # 150870 resto/semi GPW clone

That is some good work you are doing there.  Bet that jeep has a lot of spark with two ignition coils.

Home repair center! You guys are handy and I'm impressed at the way you both are working together at it. I never knew about that type of spin-on filter with the bypass hole. The only danger is someone else putting the wrong filter on-------ouch. Now that you are on a roll, the next question is: what is the next project going to be?   The disease will get you. John

I'll go over some small tidbits, and some Homer D-OH!! moments

let nothing go to waste. this was one of the lower fender brackets that attach to the frame. it broke off while on the car, and I misplaced it one of the hundred ziplock bags of parts and bolts for some time. Then thankfully I found it... the day after I already fabricated and welded a new one on.



Then I realized that even though I had a new parking brake return spring, I was missing 2 pieces: the tab that mounts on the clevis pin and the wire that mounts to the tub bracket. Using a picture found on this site and a taking a stab in the dark,



Then using a piece of remaining choke cable, I made the wire hook thingy.



Cable mounting FAIL!



There ya go! Thanks To the one who posted all the info on this little piece!



Seat frames cleaned



and painted



Practicing scribing circles on rubber sheet



Making sense now



Gotta make sure it's sealed tight, so the fire can stay on the other side of the wall



Here's a great example of the many uses of finish nails. grind the sharp point down a little, grind the head down a little. the rest should be self explanatory.  The importance of a successful restoration "hinges" on using the resources at hand.



Managed not to loose any brackets, or critical bolts during this whole painting ordeal. I went through about 14 cans of VHT roll bar epoxy paint for all the little stuff and big stuff like axles, springs shocks and driveshafts. Lesson learned, buy a case! It will save you some $

Another reason is when the paint comes from the same batch it will have the same finish. If you don't believe me, look at the picture of the engine and trans on the hoist, going into the chassis. the engine trans and t/case are grey, right? look closely and you'll notice 2 different shades of grey between the engine and trans. Even though it's the same part # of ford grey, but bought at different times.



Closing off this section, here's a couple D-OH! moments. trying to save a buck I didn't change the water pump when reassembling the engine. It was a practice run... I was a little bent, so I let my buddy swap it out





Here you can see how to precision drill holes in a tube, which have been welded, smoothed and painted over.  The key here is to guess the center of the weld within a few thousands, then proceed to wear out a drill bit trying to cut through weld.  Had to do 4 of these for the pop out windshield latch striker plate and the top screws for the windshield to cowl latch



You notice the glass is installed. i had 2 new panes cut and installed for 100 bucks. I was planning to use the the old delaminating glass, just because I wanted that "patina". Bought a fresh set of rubber gaskets and proceeded to attempt installation.

The frame is original and same glass that came out of said frame was going back in, channels were clean and I made sure I didn't overload them with paint. Soapy water, baby powder, prayers to the glass gods and multiple censored words later I was the owner of about 80 pieces of glass. One large piece, and about 79 smaller ones. Luckily the one that shattered was an old replacement piece. The one that survived was the original glass with the L-O-F logo. Picture below is borrowed from another post on this forum and shows the same mark I have  on my surviving piece.

Speaking with the seller, the reply was I've never heard about any problems with those channel seals. Funny, I found several people with issues on this forum. Then it was casually mentioned that I should use packing tape instead of the seal. Really, where do I get that? Apparently Glass shops use it, and is what "should" be used for this purpose was the reply. Never heard of any problems, yet packing tape is recommended, but still the gasket that doesn't fit is being sold.

Yup, 6 weeks full time, close to 10 hour days, including weekends. Would have been 10 weeks if not for this site. The amount of information I learned here by searching thecj2apage through google has been amazing. Thanks to all who have contributed to all the various articles, posting links, etc.

Now that the body is on, time to wire. I like to keep all the smoke inside the harness, so I rewired the whole thing. The head light and brake/running lights were still original wires, but missing about 1/2 the insulation. It was the simplest wiring job to date, but still took about a day and a half. I used remnants from previous wiring jobs and used 70's GM colors, since its familiar to me and the wires I had left were premarked for the various circuits and were in those colors. I "styled" it after the stock wiring configuration with a few minor exceptions.

I still have the dash mounted 6v keyed coil, but it only serves as a on off switch. I ran the coil, fuel gauge and the starter solenoid power through the switch. I didn't want people pushing buttons and accidentally bumping the starter. if it's in gear you could see the potential problems. As far as starter switches, the PO installed a dash mounted pushbutton, I kept that for Dad, since he liked it, and I also wired the original foot switch for my preference. so either one will activate the solenoid when the key is on.

The horn got a dedicated relay and the light circuit remained in stock configuration.

Started off with making the main battery cable, 3 feet of 2 ga.



Wired the coil, dist, solenoid and alternator charging wire



Finalized this wide of the harness



installed and wired the gauges. I placed the oil and water at the top, since i believe these to be more critical, and are easier to read higher up



Amp gauge



horn relay and circuit breaker ( I actually left this alone from the PO, but moved under dash from underhood to keep the engine bay clean)





Jeeps are a pain in the back to work under the dash, literally



Madness



Made headlight harness. I also ran a few extra wires in there, that will be tucked away for whatever future use.



cleaned headlight switch



Crimping and soldering



Those extra wires tucked away, they are not connected to anything, just inside the harness that goes through the firewall and is shrink wrapped. the idea is that if ever I need wires, I won't have loose oddball wires outside the harness



Installed all firewall grommets and cables



Stainless braided -3 oil pressure hose on left and lights/horn/spares harness. once the harness is routed i shrink wrapped the whole thing and adel clamped in place.



Fuel sender wire





Sending unit fiasco... ordered a new sending unit, but didn't read right with the SW gauge installed. It ohmed out to willys spec 0-130 I think. through some trials and using another boat tank sender I had, I figured the gauge is calibrated for a 33-240 ohm sender. It also appears that standard universal tank sending units have the same bolt pattern as the Willys tank!!! ran down to West Marine and picked up a universal 33-240 ohm sending unit.



bent the arm and cut to fit the tank, and installed with new gasket and new sealing screws that came with the unit. Worked good for a bit, but i need to add a separate ground since its become intermittent.






Edited by hooptytank - 14 Feb. 2012 at 4:10am

6 weeks!!!!!

Thanks for the tip on double flaring brake line.  Now I get it, put the fitting on before you flare.

Thanks for the compliments, it's been a steep yet fun learning curve.

Oilleaker1 wrote: The only thing that bothered me was the picture of the spin on oil filter. You say you have driven it. Did the oil pressure look good? Add-on spin- on oil filter assemblies don't usually have the orifice to provide resistence that maintains oil pressure.

The oil filter is a Napa 1050, bypass type oil filter. Check out that restrictor plate, tiny little hole. The oil pressure is 15 at a hot idle and goes up from there. The PO actually told me about it.



I wanted to make the engine a full flow system, drill and tap the block and oil pump on the outlet side, and block off the inner passage, and run -6 hoses. Someone on another forum did it, here's the link: http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?68239-full-flow-oil-filter-for-f-134. This would have accomplished 2 positive things in my opinion:
*efficiently filter all the oil before it reaches the main oil galley
*eliminate the oil pressure drop at the #1 main

In the end decided to leave well enough alone.



Edited by hooptytank - 13 Feb. 2012 at 8:51pm

Nice build thread Love all the pics. That's a lot accomplished in 6 weeks.  

With the chassis rolling, and brake plumbing mostly out of the way, time to drop the powertrain in and start the reconstruction of the chassis. then the body work shall commence.



Engine stay cable, or whatever it's called. I've read all kinds of arguments about its' intendend function. I'll go with the reduce clutch chatter theory, due to the clutch linkage relationship to the trans on this truck. End of story, I'm sticking to it.







Assembly line nut thread chasing. These are the u-joint nuts








I also disassembled the driveshafts, including the u-joints to clean, inspect and prep for paint. I believe these to be the original ones, with cork gaskets for the cups and are stamped "SPICER USA" on the caps. all were in great condition.





I had to drill and tap the starter support out to 3/8, since the old hole had no threads left to chase







Critical ground strap



I found the original battery ground cable stuffed in the corner with a rats nest, cleaned up with a new bolt and ready to go!



Dist all cleaned up, sporting an auto-lite cap. is it possible this is original? the spark plug wires were solid core, so who knows when this got it's last tuneup.



Making new AN -4 oil lines to compliment the ARP studs.



I routed the feed side under the water pump for better fit with the stainless hose. also put on a -6 cap for the block drain.



Hope it clears the fuel pump



Some minor trimming required, but it fits.



Made a new alternator bracket from one I had from something else to replace the POs monstrosity. I think one of the two brackets is the original generator bracket...



Dinner's ready, the VHT manifold paint calls for a curing process of multiple heating and cooling cycles.



PCV valve plumbed, carb installed and plumbed



Recored radiator installed. I added a filter to catch all the scale floating around in the block that I couldn't remove. that will come off after a few water changes.



I had remnants from a MSD wire set and plenty of connectors, so why not? New wires on the way



finished and looking good from something I was about to throw away. The air filter bracket had to be drilled out 1/4 " bigger and a new grommet installed to fit the 8.5mm wires. This will easily gain me 0.6 horsepower. also check out the starter solenoid mounting. I used 3/8 copper tube, beat it flat drilled some holes, made some bends and covered some of the exposed metal with shrink wrap. Finally I chose to mount the coil on the engine instead of under the dash, to help clean up some clutter.





V










Edited by hooptytank - 13 Feb. 2012 at 9:28am

With the engine assembled I put the clutch and pressure plate on, so I could assemble the trans.



Trans assembled ready to bolt on



Bellhousing had a nasty crack that I had a buddy with voodoo cast iron welding skills zap up for me. He bolted it to a flat table, to keep it from warping, put the whole thing in an oven, used some high nickel content rod and went to town. Time will tell if this worked. Wonder why it cracked in the 1st place, only thing I noticed was that only 1 bolt was holding the inspection cover on. maybe that cover becomes a structural member when bolted down?



The mysterious dowel bolts.



used some white paint to make the markings stand out better. Keep in mind that the flywheel can be mounted in 2 positions, but only one is right, or your markings will be 180 degrees off. http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/techtips/alignmarks/index.html



Bellhousing and starter mounted. at this point you're probably wondering why the head is not on. I'm waiting for some ARP head studs to arrive. are they needed? NO. Do they look sweet and cost me the same as the replacement studs from India? heck YES



put some "Right Stuff" around the bolts that I believe will give me problems as well as the cluster shaft. The throw out pivot has Moly lube on it



Trans bolted on



T-case bolted on. Out of the 5 bolts, there's a short bolt that needs to go by the reverse idler or you'll have problems. Bolted on the input gear, cover on, and ready to go. Pops and the dog supervising the operation



Studs finally arrived, the head is back from surfacing(it was way worse than the deck) covered the recycled soda can box in copper gasket sealer (along with the valves and bores).



head torqued on. Look at those sexy nuts



prepping the mounts: the old mounts had a metal plate tack welded to them, the new ones did not. I believe the old mounts to be original, so I cut those plates off and attached them to the new mounts





All I need to do now is drop it on the chassis. The chassis, coming up next.

v