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Parts Jeep Trail Build

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2020 at 4:44pm
Originally posted by Elroy Elroy wrote:

In my shop I us dry ice on hard undercoating. Just cover it with blanket 10min. Then just use a putty knife. It will come off. I’ve use it on zeibart, cheap bed liner and the insidious undercoating General Motors used the muscle car era. Good luck elroy

Thanks for the tip Elroy, I've seen the dry ice trick used in other car forums to remove sound deadening material and it seemed to work great for that. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2020 at 4:48pm
Wow, thanks for this advice! Yesterday I was looking at the bottom of my M100 jeep trailer that I'm restoring, contemplating the best way to remove the original undercoating (the Marine Corps M100s were all undercoated). The stuff is super thick and still intact after 70 years. I'll try the dry ice method.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
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CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2020 at 7:47pm
Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:

Wow, thanks for this advice! Yesterday I was looking at the bottom of my M100 jeep trailer that I'm restoring, contemplating the best way to remove the original undercoating (the Marine Corps M100s were all undercoated). The stuff is super thick and still intact after 70 years. I'll try the dry ice method.

I see that you live in Michigan, wouldn't just putting your trailer outside during the winter have the same effect? LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2020 at 2:15am

After the windshield frame I jumped in fixing the right fender; the front sheet metal will be a warm-up for working on the tub. The fender’s brace is bent- you can see it is less than 90 degrees and the top of the fender is bowed and full of bondo. There’s a story here with the fender I’m sure.




To move the fender brace I reached for the porto-power; putting some pressure on the fender and working the brace so it will stay after letting the pressure off. 



Now the brace is at 90 degrees, but the front of the fender is high. I blocked the brace with some lumber to the floor and clamped a 2x4 to the top of the fender- not all body shop tools are fancy.


Got some cracked bondo on top; looks like a couple of different flavors- this will get ground out later and the top of the fender’s metal worked a little more. The fender had a lot of cracks at virtually every attachment point. 





I took a photo of the fender gussets on the blue jeep because the black jeep’s fender gussets were so rusted and busted; it was easier to make new ones once I knew what they looked like. 

Since the tub was barely fastened to the frame when I got the jeep, my guess is that stuff was loose and moving around causing the cracks. I spent a short day and a half welding cracks while checking fitment and getting the fender back where it should be- it’s got a good fit now.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2020 at 2:15pm


I see that you live in Michigan, wouldn't just putting your trailer outside during the winter have the same effect? LOL


Not until we get ambient temps down to the -109-deg. of dry ice...
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
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CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2020 at 3:10pm
Just a little bondo there LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2020 at 4:08am
Originally posted by berettajeep berettajeep wrote:

Just a little bondo there LOL

 A thin skim coat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2021 at 1:57am
The left fender is in better shape with less cracks, but more holes and tar. I compared this fender with the fender on my blue jeep to identify all the non stock holes- they’re marked out here and got welded up.


The fender gusset is half torn off and there is a crack underneath, so I’ll cut this off and make a new one for this side too.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2021 at 12:15am
While I still had the tub attached to the frame I wanted to relocate the heater so it wouldn’t interfere with pushing in the clutch pedal. There was room to move the heater up vertically about 2.5 inches; now it’s even with the bottom of the dash and clears my foot fine when operating the pedal. Heat will be a welcome addition to the jeep. A number of pages back I mentioned going through the heater and I’m confident it should work. It’s been sitting on a shelf for many years.



I’ve got a lot of holes to weld up on the tub, I figured a few more wouldn’t matter.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan. 2021 at 3:50am
Today was the day!



The two probably haven't been separated since 1947.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2021 at 12:46am

Underneath is the same old story, rusty floors and hat channels- not sure if I want to order Classic Enterprises or have some bent up locally and piece them together.



Got some lumber and built a cart for the tub, it turned out fairly tall but then so am I. Should be at a comfortable work height for me to get to everything. I thought about a rotisserie, but I need to do a fair amount of work at each end where the rotisserie would attach.



Welded some braces into the tub opening to keep everything in place once the cutting starts. I picked up a sheet of 18 gauge metal today so no more excuses!




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 12:45am



Started to make some patch panels for the driver’s side and had to create a widget for making the drain hole. Took some time but turned out fine. I have to hand- form these as I don’t have fancy sheet metal tools- I’ve replaced countless panels on auto bodies but never had to make them from scratch!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2021 at 4:56pm
That's a nice widget!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2021 at 1:53am
I ran out of welding wire so I'm done for the weekend. I did manage to get a section of hat channel wood out in one piece.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jan145 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2021 at 9:44pm
some nice metal fabricating skills there Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2021 at 2:14am
I’m starting on the driver’s side cowl and lower front ¼ panel. Once those are patched in, I’ll work on replacing the floor and repairing the riser panel. It seems like working from the outside in will be an easier way to keep everything lined up. Someone ground on the gas filler pocket until the edges were razor sharp, so that had to come out. If someone has an extra- let’s talk.


I used some CAD (cardboard aided design) skills to create the driver’s floorboard. After making a new lower flange for the riser panel and welding it in, the floor got fitted in. Matching the angle of the cowl and ¼ panel was of concern, but it turned out really well.





I'm re-thinking a rotisserie for doing this work, the passenger side will be a bit more involved with the toolbox having to come out and my desire to install the indents in the right side panels for the axe and shovel. The numbers written on the panels are the number of non-stock holes drilled in each panel, I'm keeping a tally.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2021 at 3:02pm
I'll have to see what the gas filler pocket looks like on my parts '46 2A and if it is usable later this week. Tub is full of scrap metal at the moment. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SlaterDoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2021 at 8:33pm
Too bad you already did the metal repair on the drivers side. There are tool indent panels available that would have made at least the bottom axe indent. I got these from the Netherlands(great quality and reasonable cost) and have the shovel indent that was cut from a donor from here on the page.

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