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Transmission- Transfer case

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Pat T. View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Mar. 2012 at 5:20pm
Hey Guys--- I have a problem with bolting the transmission- transfer case together,the plate that holds the reverse shaft and main shift in the transmission, when I bolt the transmission-transfer case together the opening in the transfer case isn't machined out like most case's and won't let the two come together. When I tried to tighten the bolts it put a bind on the bearings and locks everything up. It is a Dana 18 case out of 46 2a vin number 58735. Has anyone else run into this and how did you fix it so that the plate holds the pins and yet lets the transmission-transfer case go together? Any body got an idea of what model transfer case I might have. It has an 1 1/8 shaft in the transfer case. I called the place where I got the rebuild kits and he have never seen a transfer case like that but did mention that back in the years allot of things in the cases took place as far as changes. I could sure use some help on this problem.

Thanks
Pat

Edited by Pat T. - 06 Mar. 2012 at 5:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dschroff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2012 at 6:19pm
Pat, when I rebuilt my transmission, the directions said to pay special attention to that locking plate, because if you get it wrong, the tranny and t-case wont bolt flush together.  I'm not sure your transfer case is the problem.  When rebuilding the transmission, did you install the plate from the top, or did you slide it in from the bottom?  I believe the rebuild guide I used said the plate must be installed from the top, or it will interfere with bolting the tranny and case together.  You may be able to grind down the corners on the locking plate with a dremel so that there will be no interference.  I doubt you will be able to get that locking plate out without some difficulty.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2012 at 8:02pm
Compare the new to the old locking plate and resize the new to match the old. Make sure the plate is fully seated, and do not tighten the bolts until you are sure there is no interference. You could break a casting.
I have a faint memory that I had to reuse my old locking plate.Confused


Edited by TERRY - 06 Mar. 2012 at 8:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2012 at 8:17pm
  A picture of what you have would help to see the problem.  I had that trouble with one to find out that I had the new replacement "T" plate upside down and it was pinched between the transmission and transfer case.

   JIM
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat T. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2012 at 10:27pm
I am going out tonight to see what I can do and I will get some pictures of the recess area of the transfer case. I kinda know what all of you are talking about but my problem is the recess area on the my 46 transfer care is not like the one on most cases. Most cases have the whole area where the plate goes machined out and the one on my case only has the area for the reverse shaft and the main shaft and then their is a slot about 3/4 of an inch wide that connects the area that has been machined for the shafts. I will also get some numbers from the case if I can find them. I will post again on what I find.

Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat T. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2012 at 2:07am


Here is a picture of the opening for the plate that holds the reverse shaft and main shaft in place. You can see that the recess is not total open. This is were I had the problem with the cases not coming together. I took the lock plate and sorta "V" it so that it would fit down into the recess. I had a print on the plate from where I tried to tighten the cases together to cut along to "V" the plate. I did get it to work but would like to know what transfer case I have. IT is a Dana-Spicer 18 and the serial number is   J49870. Does anyone have any idea what I have?

Thanks

Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote autolite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2012 at 2:50am
That looks like a WWII t18 case for a T-84 transmission.It has the cut out for the interlock between transfer and transmission.I believe it will work with the T-90.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2012 at 12:55pm
the T-84 case would have a 3/4" intermediate shaft though, has this case been bored out for the larger shaft?
 
i do agree, that it has the reliefs like a T-84.....
 
measure the thickness of your rear bearing, i have seen aftermarkets rear bearings to thick, thus not allowing the cases to mate......
45 #10012
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45 #10163 ACM #188
57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2012 at 1:41pm
Pat:

2 different lock plates were used (changed at s/n 67494).  You need the early style (top one in this pic):


These are not available repro (far as I know), you'll have to fab one

Fits like so:


Sean

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pat T. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2012 at 3:20am
So we think that this is a WWII transfer case? What I ended up doing was taking the locking plate like Sean has in the first photo and from trying to bolt the things together it left a inprint on the plate , so I cut out the part that needed to come out and then drove it into the slots of the shafts and put it together. It seem to fit okay. When I order the rebuild kits everything fit as far a shafts and bearing. The plate was my problem. But it is nice to know that the transfer case is an older case.

Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2012 at 2:26pm
Pat:
Quote So we think that this is a WWII transfer case?
No.  It's a standard CJ-2A case used from s/n 24196 up to 67494.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec. 2022 at 7:23am
First post to the forum. Rebuilding a 1946 cj2a. Completed the rebuild of both the T90 and D18, with everything spinning properly. Mating the two together and all seems to fit well until the last revolution of either the top two bolts or the bottom two bolts, so something is binding. I have the proper bolts in the lower holes and I have trimmed the locking plate to not bind. So again for clarification, if I have all five bolts tight and if I back off either the top two bolts or the lower two bolts all spins well. I would appreciate any help. I thought about doubling the gasket to see if that helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec. 2022 at 9:10am
Original transfer case or was it swapped ?
Most likely culprit is the alignment of transfer case pocket which accepts the lock plate. So double check that; especially if the case was swapped from another year jeep.


Edited by oldtime - 20 Dec. 2022 at 9:11am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec. 2022 at 9:51am
Both original. I have checked the plate and don't see how it can be binding, but I will try again. The original lock plate was that beveled end type, could that make a difference? Thanks oldtime for the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec. 2022 at 10:36am
So long as the lock plate is not hitting the “walls” of the transfer case pocket your lock plate fit is good.
Also tap the shafts in deep after the lock plate is installed.

If it still seems to bind when bolts are all tightened, then try doubling up gaskets as you say or make a thick gasket to see if that does it.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2022 at 9:52am
Thanks again for the help. I will try the gasket and see if that works.
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