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Oil pressure at idle

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wrdabney View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:10am
I drove around today for the first time more than around the neighborhood. I got the transmission leak fixed (so far) with some rtv and a new tower gasket. My engine has new rings and bearings and is getting about 40psi at 40-45 mph and about 30 at 30-35. However, after it's good and warmed up when I'm stopped and at idle the pressure drops to about 5-7. It's scaring me to even drive it. The gauge is new. What should I do?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:17am
I would try another gauge. 5-7 is scary low. The rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wrdabney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:24am
Yeah it's scaring me. So 40 for 40 and 30 for 30 is about normal though? About what rpm do these things idle at if normal?

Edited by wrdabney - 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:25am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dschroff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:35am
The owner's manual says idle should be set at 600 rpms.... so using your rule of thumb, that would be 6 lbs.  Seems super low.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wrdabney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:45am
So could it just be that I have it idled too low?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gunslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 3:17am
Make sure you have a good break in oil in it. and you may want to shim your oil pump, or replace it with a NOS pump.  John at Midwest Military has some NOS pumps, I put one in mine and the OP was great
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 3:25am
What brand and weight oil are you using?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 3:44am
Try installing another gage in the oil galley for a second opinion, your dash gage may be off, MHO, Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wrdabney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 3:45am
I'm using auto zone brand conventional hd 30.  I didn't know you were supposed to run something specific for break in period. what is recommended?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 3:57am
Originally posted by wrdabney wrdabney wrote:

what is recommended?


It depends on who you ask. Back "in the day" there were very specific reccomendations for break-in oil and procedures. A lot has changed since then in the world of metal parts and oils. For years now I've told my customers to "Put the oil in it that you're gonna use, and drive it how you're gonna drive it " I haven't had any complaints.   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 4:28am
There are three camshaft bearings in these engines, and only one of them has an insert we can replace. There's bound to be some wear in the other two. This is a prime place for oil pressure to be lost. There's almost nothing we can do but live with it. And, main and rod bearings are made to have more clearance nowadays than before. With the crank ground to spec and new inserts, bearing clearance will be on the large side, near the limit. Again, very little we can do about it. Think about this -- the pistons are small (light) the rods are spindly, (light) and the compression ratio is low. How much oil pressure is really needed? Chevrolet said that even in a 350 with 11:1 compression, 10# per 1000 RPMs is enough. A lot of engines built at the same time as our little L134 did not even have full pressure oiling systems. The rod bearings and sometimes the mains as well were oiled by dippers on the rods.
This is one of the reasons why all the manufacturers replaced the guages with "idiot" lights ( the oil light does not come on until pressure drops below 4#) or took the numbers off the guages and replaced them with "Low, Normal, and High".   Sorry, I got carried away.   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Harveynailbanger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 4:45am
not a fix allend all method but you can reduce the size of the nozzle that oils the cam gears to helpboost pressure a bit. if i recall Gunslinger has a full flow oil mod with the nozzle reduced to .020 dont quote me on that number without checking tho.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 10:56am
Originally posted by wrdabney wrdabney wrote:

I'm using auto zone brand conventional hd 30.  I didn't know you were supposed to run something specific for break in period. what is recommended?

Use 20W-50 or 15W-40. It will thank you. Plus you get the ZDDP additive...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:09pm
Rotella T 15w40 is a good oil and it has ZDDP in it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:41pm
Originally posted by wrdabney wrdabney wrote:

... However, after it's good and warmed up when I'm stopped and at idle the pressure drops to about 5-7 ...
Chain or gear drive engine?  Recently rebuilt, or as-is old wear?

RTM:  idle minimum for chain is 10 PSI, idle minimum for gear is 6 PSI

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wrdabney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2012 at 2:45pm
Sean,
It's gear driven, not completely rebuilt but recently had new rings and bearings and a valve job.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll grab some rotella and change it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gunslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2012 at 11:12pm
Yup .020, you can pull the front cover, unscrew the nozzle weld up the hoel and re-drill it pretty easy.  Some guys go the other way and plug the line to the oil filter to test the oil pressure.  Use a 1/4 inch pipe plug in the block where the line goes to the oil filter.  don't worry about oil to the gear, it will get enough from the squirter.  That will push extra oil to your front bearing and may jump your pressure up a bit.

Edited by Gunslinger - 26 Apr. 2012 at 11:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wyowillys46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr. 2012 at 3:55am
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

There are three camshaft bearings in these engines, and only one of them has an insert we can replace. There's bound to be some wear in the other two. This is a prime place for oil pressure to be lost. There's almost nothing we can do but live with it. And, main and rod bearings are made to have more clearance nowadays than before. With the crank ground to spec and new inserts, bearing clearance will be on the large side, near the limit. Again, very little we can do about it. Think about this -- the pistons are small (light) the rods are spindly, (light) and the compression ratio is low. How much oil pressure is really needed? Chevrolet said that even in a 350 with 11:1 compression, 10# per 1000 RPMs is enough. A lot of engines built at the same time as our little L134 did not even have full pressure oiling systems. The rod bearings and sometimes the mains as well were oiled by dippers on the rods.
This is one of the reasons why all the manufacturers replaced the guages with "idiot" lights ( the oil light does not come on until pressure drops below 4#) or took the numbers off the guages and replaced them with "Low, Normal, and High".   Sorry, I got carried away.   BW


I've heard that the cam bores can be enlarged to take Ford 302 cam bearings. I think that info was from back on the old 2A board.
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