REALLY modified flat fender... |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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I'm impressed with your ingenuity This is a well thought out vehicle.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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JeepFever
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Aug. 2012 Location: VA Status: Offline Points: 2753 |
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I agree, very nice! Subscribed, in case I want to come back later for ideas on SM420 adapter.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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Back to the SM420 adapter...... How far do you think you would need to space out the t'case to get the original front yoke in? I see the Novak kit is 4-1/2" and has an extension for the tranny output shaft. Hate to go that route and add 4-1/2" to the overall length. I suppose if you spaced it out much more than 1/2", the tranny output gear .... (or whatever you call it), would not be able to handle the axial load. Your thoughts?
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Honestly the SM420 doesn't work very well with the D18 at all in my opinion. To get a 1310 front yoke you either need to move the transfer case back about 4.5" or maybe rotate the entire transfer case down to make more room. The reverse bulge on the SM420 on the passenger side doesn't play well with the front driveshaft either, no matter what location the yoke is in. You usually end up having to run a small 1.25" front driveshaft to get any clearance. The fit of the T18/D18 is MUCH better overall. The adapted length of a T18 with the factory D20/18 adapter is shorter than any of the off the shelf SM420 adapted lengths. You can fit a 1310 yoke on the passenger side no problem also. With enough junkyard swapping you can build a T18 to adapt to just about any engine and adapt it to the D18 with all junkyard parts. The FSJ's had a lot of T18 to D20 adapters. As long as you use a 4" bore Dana 18 or 20 case you can use that adapter for a Dana 18 transfer case. You can take the FSJ rear output shaft and adapter and swap it into a ford wide ratio T18 by redrilling the back of the ford transmission case. The ford T18 can be adapted to just about any ford engine and has the extra ears on the front of the case that can be drilled to adapt just about any GM bellhousing. I still have my entire SM420/D18 custom adapted unit and would be more than willing to sell it. Maybe it would work better for someone else. I never broke anything but could never get it to seal up and stop leaking.....
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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I've had some pretty good feedback on my little machine over here so I thought I might try keeping this thread a little more up to date. I just got done re-gearing the rear axle to 5.38's and now I am doing the front.....
Started the front gear install by tearing the front end apart.... I got this far. Total dis-assembly of the front for gears and all the bearings are pulled. Everything still looked really good. No loose anything anywhere. The pinion was marked +2 which is nice for a reference point. I REALLY like my front disc brake conversion! Two bolts on the caliper. Slip the rotor off, six nuts on the spindle stud and the entire spindle, bearing hub, locking hub, and axle shaft package come out as one unit. No need to mess with the wheel bearings AT ALL! A short cliff notes on the brake conversion for new readers that might have not made it through the entire thread. -Factory spindle and wheel bearing hub -wheel studs for the factory drum brake application -My custom designed brake adapter bracket -1995ish Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick calipers and caliper mounts -1995ish Gdo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick rotors -Drill the lug mounting pattern holes out SLIGHT to fit over wheel studs. -1985 Honda accord front brake line -metric brake fitting adapted at the frame. The case spreader worked but required a bit of modification. The mounting holes have to be elongated slightly. The mounting spread on a D44 was 3.5" almost exactly. On a Dana 30 it is about 3 3/8 - 3 7/16. I used a 3/8" round file to elongate the holes. On the front diff the case spreader arm would not clear the U-bolt plate so it had to be removed from the install. This machine sits very low so the suspension had to be at about full droop to get the case spreader to clear the frame. I built the spreader large enough to take a 12" ring gear so it was a tradeoff on the smaller sizes. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the setup bearings made, housing measured, and the starter shim packs figured out. I took a break last weekend after I got the rear axle gearing done to get some break in cycles on the rear gears. Overall the 5.38 gears work MUCH better. I have my 4th gear back and it can be used from about 35-55+mph. I don't really need to go much faster than about 50-55mph in this thing. I'm not trying to build an interstate rocket or anything. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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Nothing ground breaking...
I have been working on getting an AFFORDABLE shovel and axe mounted on my old MB. I just can't see paying $250+ for some of the kits out there. I have kept an eye out for original stuff but am not that much of a restorationalist. The shovel is a $14 unit from home depot that I cut and rebent in the neck to get the fit right against the body. The axe is a new Collins unit from Ace Hardware that was bought online for $33 delivered to my door. It isn't the exactly perfect axe, but for the price its a dang fine unit after a little love with a file and a stone. I had the original axe pocket on the body but it was pretty mashed. A little love with a prybar and a few new tack-welds and it was functional again. The brackets are Omix units. I got the shovel bracket, axe handle bracket, and axe head bracket for $50 shipped from Oconee Offroad. The fit was fair. I had to re-bend the axe handle bracket slightly, no big deal. A quick trip to the hardware store for some flathead mounting hardware and everything was mounted. Hopefully I will get some 1" straps made up with some more modern buckles soon. Total cost for the entire assembly came out just about $100. I was more interested in having functional tools rather than 100% period correct stuff. |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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Yup. Just need some dirt on them
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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What gauge are those belly pans?
Where was the battery before?
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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The belly pans are 1/8" thick......so 10-11 gauge.
The battery was under the drivers seat in the fuel tank sump. I moved the battery so I could eliminate the sump so I could build the rocker guards :) |
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Bob W
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 08 Aug. 2005 Location: Monticello, NY Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Would you happen to have a part number for those Yukon D30 spindles that fit 30 spline axles? Are they just the regular Yukon spindles? https://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=6301 Thanks!!!
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4185 |
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F.Y.I. Jeep used 2 different sizes of hub spindles on the D25 and D27 axles.
Some late hub spindles had a larger I.D. than some of the early spindles. I may have my early and late sizes mixed up ??? I seem to have forgotten right now which bore was larger. The stock Jeep spindles with the larger bore will allow insertion of a 27 spline axle shaft. The 27 spline axle shafts will not fit into the smaller bored spindles. 30 spline shafts will not fit into the I.D. of these stock Jeep spindles. Not familiar with the Yukon parts.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Metcalf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 May 2009 Location: Durango, Co Status: Offline Points: 736 |
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I heard Yukon stopped making the 30 spline version.
Nitro gear and axle is making one now however. http://www.amazon.com/79-86-FRONT-SPINDLE-BRAKE-SPLINE/dp/B00L2ID4MU
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42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.
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Bob W
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 08 Aug. 2005 Location: Monticello, NY Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Thanks
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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....so your front axle shafts are just the stock ones?
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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wild1joker
Member Joined: 14 Nov. 2018 Location: Fayetteville N. Status: Offline Points: 83 |
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so many ideas in this thread. I've been watching your build on Pirate for years.I've only seen a few video's of you in action. It's inspiring to see Rango in action. Any more updates? I'm still looking for my 1st Willys-
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