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Axle nut tightening
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dodjh View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Sep. 2012 at 4:40pm
I am in the process of putting my brake hubs back on after replacing the shoes, w cyl. etc.
 
How tight is the axle nut suppose to be and are the brake hub seals suppose to be flush with
 
the surface they are sealing or inset some?
 
Thank you
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you tighten the axel nut tight with your hand then snug it with a wrench then back off 1/4 of a turn. DO NOT really tighten it  just snug. Then back it off  I do a 2 finger snug.

Edited by p3ferris - 28 Sep. 2012 at 6:35pm
Ed
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I assume you are talking about the rear axle?  If so then the nut needs to be really tight. Like 150 ft pounds if I remember right. If you are talking about the front hubs then snug them up and back off just a little.
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http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/torque-specs_topic5123.html
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dodjh View Drop Down
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I failed to mention it is the front axles I'm working with.  When I removed them they were loose but I thought possiblly they had worked themselves loose.

 
What each of you have said makes sense.
 
Thank you for your posts.
 
Charles
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Gentleman...I have forgotten (happens all to frequently) how and the order the front axle assembly
 
goes back together.
 
Does someone have a link to where there is an expanded view of the assembly?
 
Thank you
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http://www.cj-2a.com/parts_list/illustrations/47/fig-31xl.jpg
and
http://www.cj-2a.com/parts_list/illustrations/47/fig-28xl.jpg

you might want to bookmark this page, it's the parts catalog in it's entirety (that's where the pictures came from) http://www.cj-2a.com/parts_list/index.php

And thank Sean for all his work to make this possible.Wink
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Thank you Sean and bkreutz.
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Another question that I'm not sure of the answer.
 
The cone and roller bearing were covered in gear oil...I'm guessing from the Diff. gear oil.
 
Should they be packed in axle grease before re-installing?
 
Thank You
 
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Does anyone know whether or not I need to pack the front axle bearing and cone with axle grease before
 
re-installing.  It is a CJ-3a with a Dana 25.
 
Thanks
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I pack the bearings with grease, I believe the manuals say the same thing but I've never read the "how to" on front wheel bearingsLOL (been doing them one way too long to change my ways anyhow)
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bkreutz....I've always packed them but I 've never worked on one as old as the cj-2 & 3a's.
 
So I guess I'll spray them with brake cleaner, use an air compressor to blow them clean and dry, and
 
then pack them, unless anyone recommends otherwise.
 
Thank you for the reply....I've been waiting to hear someones opinion before going out and doing them.
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Just don't spin the bearings up with the air gun, common mistake to make. Think about it, you're spinning up a bearing without any lube. Quick way to bearing failure. 
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I just use the air to blow any loose debris and to dry them....I don't think I spun them.
 
What you say makes sense...just have to hope I didn't unintenially spin them.
 
Charles
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I tighten front wheel bearings on Jeeps until they are tight by hand and spin the assembly by hand to seat everything good. You will notice after more tightening they don't turn by hand as well and drag. That is where I stop and back it off until it frees up and stop right there. The new lock washer is tough to bend. I usually scribe a mark on the nut flat, take it back off and put it in a vice. I then start the bend on the scribe a little and re-install it. Bends way easier after that. On another jeep, a previous mechanic has sawn a 1/4 inch wide tabs in the washer and bent that in two spots. The tab idea worked even easier. If the tabs break on re-use, you still have room to make more and re-use the washer. Anyone else have comments? John
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I tighten them pretty snug (too tight to leave it), and give the hub a turn to seat things. Then loosen the nut half a turn or so, so it's no longer putting any pressure on the bearing. Don't turn or disturb the hub. Then I go finger tight again and then back off maybe half a flat. I want them close to zero clearance but NO preload.
Now. Here's the part that's going to stir up a hornet's nest. I know it's against what the books say and what the pictures show. I bend the lock washer over the INNER nut after the outer lock nut is tight. The inner nut is the one that you don't want to move. The outer, lock nut jams it and holds the washer in place. It's easier to bend it that way, and you don't have to un-bend it to remove it.
Close to 30 years in front-end and alignment with no bearing failures due to over-tightening or working loose.   BW
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Originally posted by bkreutz bkreutz wrote:

Just don't spin the bearings up with the air gun, common mistake to make. Think about it, you're spinning up a bearing without any lube. Quick way to bearing failure. 
 
 
Nothing like the sound of multiple wheel bearings spinning with compressed air in the chassis lab at school.....and then the shop teacher walks in.......Lots of low grades that day!LOL
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!
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Oh my God, the hornets are coming.LOL When you think about  the only one that could loosen if the tab in the slot of the spindle shears is the left front while in a forward motion. Would do it either way, so Machts Nicht mein Her!  I just wish 90 weight would find a way to stay in the steering box and knuckles and front diff and rear diff and tranny and transfercase. Natural undercoating, a built in preservation!Big smile John
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