Spring perch center-to-center measurement

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   My poor chassis has seen some crude repairs and bad welding over the years.  Before I replace my pivot eye and shackle brackets, I want to make sure I am placing them in the correct positions and spacings.   I've just got the frame back from the sandblaster.

The existing brackets are attached in a variety of ways:  factory rivets, bolted, and welded.   I think I can use the riveted ones as a reference point for the others.

Can some one provide me the center to center measurement of both the front and rear leaf spring brackets for a '47 CJ2A?  I am measuring from the center of the pivot eye to the center of the shackle eye.

And, what is the recommended approach for reattaching the new brackets?   I was thinking of using Grade 8 bolts.
Thanks and regards, Jeff

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Jeff_Davis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 15 July 2012 Location: Argentina & FL Status: Offline Points: 551	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jeff_Davis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Spring perch center-to-center measurement Posted: 24 Oct. 2012 at 4:50pm
	My poor chassis has seen some crude repairs and bad welding over the years. Before I replace my pivot eye and shackle brackets, I want to make sure I am placing them in the correct positions and spacings. I've just got the frame back from the sandblaster. The existing brackets are attached in a variety of ways: factory rivets, bolted, and welded. I think I can use the riveted ones as a reference point for the others. Can some one provide me the center to center measurement of both the front and rear leaf spring brackets for a '47 CJ2A? I am measuring from the center of the pivot eye to the center of the shackle eye. And, what is the recommended approach for reattaching the new brackets? I was thinking of using Grade 8 bolts. Thanks and regards, Jeff
	Jeff 1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina 1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida) 1954 M-100 USMC Trailer 1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block

Joe DeYoung Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Madison WI Status: Offline Points: 3362	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe DeYoung Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct. 2012 at 4:59pm
	The frame specs for a CJ2A are: The horizontal (eye-to-eye) distance for the rear is 40-1/16 and the front is 34-3/4. The verital (eye-to-eye) rise for the rear is 3-3/8 and the front is 4-5/32. When you do the math, the angled distance for the rear is 40-13/64 and the front is 35".
	Joe DeYoung to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.

Jeff_Davis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 15 July 2012 Location: Argentina & FL Status: Offline Points: 551	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jeff_Davis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct. 2012 at 8:22pm
	Any ideas on how to attach the new spring perches, that were formally riveted? I'm thinking Grade 8 bolts.
	Jeff 1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina 1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida) 1954 M-100 USMC Trailer 1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block

Joe DeYoung Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Madison WI Status: Offline Points: 3362	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe DeYoung Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Oct. 2012 at 10:04pm
	I don't think bolts alone will be very reliable as they will allow movement lateral movement. You might get away with welding and bolts. Guess it depends on how you're going to use it. If it was mine, I would rivot and weld as originally done.
	Joe DeYoung to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.