'46 Master cylinder removal

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   Working on my dads stock '46 Willys. How difficult is it to replace the master cylinder. We are trying to get it running again after sitting in a shed for several years any tips to get it going again?

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WillysAub Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2013 Location: Auburn Status: Offline Points: 5	Post Options Post Reply Quote WillysAub Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: '46 Master cylinder removal Posted: 07 Apr. 2013 at 11:16pm
	Working on my dads stock '46 Willys. How difficult is it to replace the master cylinder. We are trying to get it running again after sitting in a shed for several years any tips to get it going again?

Ratboy99 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 05 Apr. 2013 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 18	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratboy99 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 12:24am
	Its fairly strait forward. 2 bolts on the side of the master cly. get a good line wrench to break the brake lines free from the master cly before you losen the Master cly. Chances are if the master cly is stuck or worn out the wheel clys are probably stuck leaking or worn out aswell. Personally before i take everything apart I like to open a front bleeder and a rear bleader put some tubes on them into some buckets and see if you can pump some fresh fluid though the system. If your able to pump some fluid though the system then do a bleed and see where you stand.

damar2yxr Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Watertown, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2632	Post Options Post Reply Quote damar2yxr Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 12:25am
	It's not difficult to remove technically.................but the problem is access and corrosion. Those darn things are really hard to get a wrench on and work loose any corroded bolts or fittings. It is real easy to get frustrated and strip stubborn fittings. So be careful, take it slow. If you have trouble with the fittings try removing the bolts hold ing the master cylinder to the frame first then that will allow you to drop the MC a bit and you can get a better shot at the fittings. It is a ton easier if you don't strip things.
	eat,sleep,jeep Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD! 43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7,

CmK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 08 July 2010 Location: Thompson, CT Status: Offline Points: 347	Post Options Post Reply Quote CmK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 12:50am
	Don't forget to Bench-bleed your rebuilt or new master cylinder before reinstalling it (like someone I know did... ); it will make your life a heck of a lot easier afterwards. Although, how do your metal and rubber brake lines look? If you're replacing the master cylinder you might just want to consider doing a whole brake job and replace your lines as well as all four wheel cylinders as mentioned above, too. It's not too difficult. By the way, is that Auburn, MA?
	CJ-2A 43883 [SOLD] CJ-2A 104976 [SOLD]

jimmcld Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 17 Nov. 2005 Location: Denton, Texas Status: Offline Points: 187	Post Options Post Reply Quote jimmcld Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 2:54am
	And, if you replace everything, you might consider going to synthetic brake fluid. It prevents a lot of future problems with wheel and master cylinders.
	Jim

WillysAub Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2013 Location: Auburn Status: Offline Points: 5	Post Options Post Reply Quote WillysAub Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 4:20am
	Alright, I will look at them to see how they look. Nope Auburn, Al WDE! Is there anywhere on the jeep where the serial number is besides on the fire wall? Should I be worried about rust in the gas tank?

CmK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 08 July 2010 Location: Thompson, CT Status: Offline Points: 347	Post Options Post Reply Quote CmK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 4:34am
	Oh okay. There should be a tub ACM number on the driver's side gusset and a frame tag on the driver's side frame rail, near the bumper horn(s), too.
	CJ-2A 43883 [SOLD] CJ-2A 104976 [SOLD]

damar2yxr Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Watertown, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2632	Post Options Post Reply Quote damar2yxr Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 4:40am
	Yes I would worry about rust in the gas tank.............................. Is there rust in yours? Here is what is going to happen with rust in the gas tank......it will stop running. Those little flakes will clog you up in no time. New tank or clean her up good, Others will have plenty of options as to what works good for them. The less rust there is the better your chances of cleaning it up. Fresh tank is better if you are really goobered up. Auburn, Al WDE?? not sure where that is but if you can get a jeep in there it can't be that bad. Edited by damar2yxr - 08 Apr. 2013 at 4:43am
	eat,sleep,jeep Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD! 43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7,

WillysAub Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2013 Location: Auburn Status: Offline Points: 5	Post Options Post Reply Quote WillysAub Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 4:57am
	It looks that way, my dad drained the gas out it when he put it in the shed. I think it might be surface rust. Any good way to get the engine to start? I go to Auburn University, WDE is part of a cheer

Ratboy99 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 05 Apr. 2013 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 18	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ratboy99 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 5:00am
	just tackled my rusty tank today. if the tank is Really nasty inside take it a radiator shop. most will be able to hot tank it for a fee and it will come out looking brand new. I called around a few shops in AZ most where asking around $80. or you can do the cheaper at home method. put about 4 cups of small jagged rocks into the tank and a gallon or so of cleaner. everyone has different ideas of what cleaner to use i just grabbed some random degreaser i had in the garage. shake it ya mean it for awhile I threw mine in the back of the truck and let it ride around. rinse it out and see how clean it came out.

Schimms15 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 17 Jan. 2011 Location: milwaukee, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2953	Post Options Post Reply Quote Schimms15 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 5:07am
	the works is a cleaner we use for steel however i wouldnt recommend it for this application. some one before said they filled their tank with bolts and nuts then straped it to a tractor wheel and let it spin on that. you can do the same with anything that you can get to rotate slowly. for instance your rwd car jacked up with the tank strapped to the wheel and the car in drive. just let it spin for a few hours. you will then want to seal it, and make sure you put a fuel filter in line before your fuel pump. i have one right after the tank and one before my carb. never can be to careful.
	46 2a 51 truck project named Karen

damar2yxr Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Watertown, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2632	Post Options Post Reply Quote damar2yxr Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 5:21am
	You have some good questions but it seems that your main question is how to get it started since it hasn't run for a while. Fuel is a good place to start. I would bypass your tank right now and use an external fuel container. That means putting a fuel line into a clean container. That way you wont have to worry about contamination. If it is a 6 volt system have a 6 volt battery. 12 volt battery if it's converted to 12 volt. Make sure your connections are good. Change your oil. check to see if there is any water or other crap in your waste oil. Make sure you can rotate the crankshaft. If you can't it may be froze. If it turns keep going. If it don't stop here and ask about unsticking a stuck engine. Make sure your radiator is full Check or change your plugs, check your spark wire connections. If all looks good......try to start it. If it cranks things are looking up. Starter fluid can be used if needed. So if it starts your question is answered. If it turns over but doesn't start then you have to start trouble shooting different systems. .... Do you have spark? Compression? Carb?......yada yada. Now if it is running it probably isn't running perfect. Start checking and adjusting things. Not sure of your level of expertise but the above is kind of primer. Good luck!
	eat,sleep,jeep Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD! 43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7,

WillysAub Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2013 Location: Auburn Status: Offline Points: 5	Post Options Post Reply Quote WillysAub Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 5:56am
	I'll try that, Thanks!