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Building a Universal Modified

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2018 at 1:56am
Originally posted by Bob W Bob W wrote:

And now your offset rear differential will get hung up on all those rocks that the centered differiential went right past.
The offset diff has the advantage percentage wise.   I bet Bob rides his bike down the middle of the road too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2018 at 3:35am




I've been driving BAM BAM to work every day for a couple weeks except for yesterday when I had to get my wife and take her to work after hitting here second deer in a month:



... she is ok. The deer didn't stick around for an interview.

Those newer Jeep are not as tough as Bam Bam.Glad to here your wife is ok.

Giles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct. 2018 at 3:52am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

... also, I know you are supposed to have .005 end play in the output shaft. What is the logical reason for that?


I’ll take a crack at that!

Rule of thumb with Timken tapered bearings!.....

1) On a “Dead Shaft”, or one that doesn’t turn, like a spindle on an axel, the bearing preload is adjusted tight!, why ?, as the hub warms from use it gets slightly larger from expansion and the rollers in a tapered bearing will expand lengthwise not in diameter like a ball bearing, so as the hub expands the bearing looses a bit of its preload.

2) on a “Live Shaft”, or one that turns, like an output shaft on a D-18, the shaft slightly increases in length due to heat, if you set the output shaft with preload and after the T/C warms up to it’s operating temp you will run the risk of overloading the bearing!, so if your running .004 of end play on the shaft at assembly odds are if you checked it at operating temp on a warm summer day you would find there would be little if any end play! .... I’ve been into many gearboxes, swing boxes and final drives on heavy equipment over the years, .004-.006 is pretty common on most every “Live Shaft” situation.

Hope my description is understandable

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov. 2018 at 6:46pm
Originally posted by Lee (MN) Lee (MN) wrote:

... as the hub warms from use it gets slightly larger from expansion and the rollers in a tapered bearing will expand lengthwise not in diameter like a ball bearing, so as the hub expands the bearing looses a bit of its preload.
If the hub expands, wouldn't the bearings get tighter since the outer races are inboard? ... unless the dead shaft and hub expand equally.
Quote
2) on a “Live Shaft”, or one that turns, like an output shaft on a D-18, the shaft slightly increases in length due to heat, if you set the output shaft with preload and after the T/C warms up to it’s operating temp you will run the risk of overloading the bearing!, so if your running .004 of end play on the shaft at assembly odds are if you checked it at operating temp on a warm summer day you would find there would be little if any end play!
Why would the front hub expand with heat but the T'case box not expand? ... Why would a dead shaft not expand but a live shaft does?
Quote .... I’ve been into many gearboxes, swing boxes and final drives on heavy equipment over the years, .004-.006 is pretty common on most every “Live Shaft” situation.
If that is how its done with a live shaft, I'll believe it, but I still don't quite understand why a dead shaft wouldn't expand or contract any more or less that a live shaft. I don't doubt you, but it isn't clicking with me. Not that it is that important

.... more changes:

first, I made some new spring brackets similar to what Metcalf posted except I added some castle tops to capture the axle perches:





.... then I put 9" bilstein shocks on the front:



These are the same 255/70 valving as the rear. The shock towers are a copy of what Metcalf did on his build but not as tall. The bottom of the shock is still attached to the spring bracket. I just don't want obviously too tall shock towers at this time. I reserve the right to change my mind on that. Truthfully, the springs will travel 10" but my geometry will not allow for that much travel without various collisions so I went with 9" to keep them as short as I could.

... also notice in the picture that I adjusted the bump stops on the front axle so that I can get the tires to turn an extra 2" each way, just shy of colliding with the springs at the rear. I'm not sure why I didn't do that a long time ago

Thanks for reading.

Edited by jpet - 05 Nov. 2018 at 6:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2018 at 12:53am
Some good detail improvements! 

I do wonder if the D18 and offset case is going to be all that you want. Personally, I would have had a HARD time giving up the capability in the D20 for front dig! 

Have fun in Moab. Good luck on Pritchett 2.0 
42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2018 at 4:26am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:


... also notice in the picture that I adjusted the bump stops on the front axle so that I can get the tires to turn an extra 2" each way, just shy of colliding with the springs at the rear. I'm not sure why I didn't do that a long time ago
 
Thanks Jeff for sharing this!!
 
We have same D30 axle from early '80's CJ.   After checking mine,  I also have at least 2" of clearance between tire and spring.   I might have noticed one day,  but good to know now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2018 at 1:12pm
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

...I do wonder if the D18 and offset case is going to be all that you want.
You could be right. It's all experimental so if I don't like it, I'll just go back to the D20.
Quote .... Personally, I would have had a HARD time giving up the capability in the D20 for front dig!....
If my TC could be shifted into FWD any time I need it, I would agree but I could rarely get my TC to shift without backing up slightly. My teraflex TC and the one I got from Jack O'brien acted the same way. You can't shift them unless you get slack between the drive lines. Even then, the sequence had to be:

(1) Come to a stop, back up slightly.
(2) Put front axle in neutral.
(3) Put rear axle in neutral.
(4) Put front axle in gear.

I could never put the rear axle in neutral while the front axle was engaged.
Sometimes, If I was in motion and I was anticipating a shift, I could let off the gas abruptly to induce slack in the gears, and put the front axle shifter in neutral without backing up, but whenever I have been in a situation where I needed a front dig, such as hanging on the edge of a wall all caddywhompus and need to pull my front over to straighten out, I was already stopped and backing up was not an option.

I do like the ability to be able to shift from low to high with one stick and the ability to go from low range to high range on the fly. I never had that with the twin stick D20.

The offset is not that much and may be insignificant but I'm hoping that several insignificant things add up to one significant jeep. Thanks for reading.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 2:03am
Yup, sometimes the drivetrain just doesn't like going into front dig. I think having the rear locker open sometimes helps that. Having an automatic seems to make it more possible too. Slight changes in front to rear gear ratios could cause issues too. 

Did you end up trying an automatic front locker and selectable rear locker yet? I know you fought some lock-unlock-lock issues with the Eaton unit. I don't have that issue with my OX-locker. Overall, I am still a very big proponent of this combo over other options. We are talking about small differences, but I still think there is a clear advantage. The only disadvantage I can see is that sometimes with an automatic front locker if the vehicle starts bouncing you can 'overrun' the tire causing the locker to ratchet. This isn't the best for the front shafts or locker. Here I am about 6 years later though without issues and my big wide dumb tires. 

The other thing that the rear open diff can let you do is to brake one tire or the other to help load the chassis one way or another. I've seen some people to crazy things with an open rear diff and cutting brakes. 

My new truck with the selectable-selectable-selectable combo is interesting. I still haven't got a great feel for it. It works, but I think its too many buttons to press when you need to be concentrating on other things. The ability to open the center diff adds something, but I'm not sure how useful it is yet. I have been able to do some sudo-front digs/burns with the center diff open and e-brake on the rear axle. That seems to let me shift the front end of the vehicle around a bit more. 

So many ideas to try, so little time. 


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 2:13am
Those u-bolt plates are right on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 12:30pm
If you switch to a diesel engine it will prevent the transfer case from making noise. haha! Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 7:31pm
Every time I see detail photos of jpet's Bam Bam, all his smartly engineered upgrades, I think how it must piss off the originality snobs in the MVPA....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov. 2018 at 2:46am
Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:

Every time I see detail photos of jpet's Bam Bam, all his smartly engineered upgrades, I think how it must piss off the originality snobs in the MVPA....


That's probably not hard to do...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov. 2018 at 3:30am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Originally posted by Lee (MN) Lee (MN) wrote:

... as the hub warms from use it gets slightly larger from expansion and the rollers in a tapered bearing will expand lengthwise not in diameter like a ball bearing, so as the hub expands the bearing looses a bit of its preload.
If the hub expands, wouldn't the bearings get tighter since the outer races are inboard? ... unless the dead shaft and hub expand equally.
Quote
2) on a “Live Shaft”, or one that turns, like an output shaft on a D-18, the shaft slightly increases in length due to heat, if you set the output shaft with preload and after the T/C warms up to it’s operating temp you will run the risk of overloading the bearing!, so if your running .004 of end play on the shaft at assembly odds are if you checked it at operating temp on a warm summer day you would find there would be little if any end play!
Why would the front hub expand with heat but the T'case box not expand? ... Why would a dead shaft not expand but a live shaft does?
Quote .... I’ve been into many gearboxes, swing boxes and final drives on heavy equipment over the years, .004-.006 is pretty common on most every “Live Shaft” situation.
If that is how its done with a live shaft, I'll believe it, but I still don't quite understand why a dead shaft wouldn't expand or contract any more or less that a live shaft. I don't doubt you, but it isn't clicking with me. Not that it is that important


Thanks for reading.


1) I believe your correct!...
2) I’m certainly no mechanical engineer 😮, but would assume the live shaft is doing the work, therefor creating the heat (?) and lacks the ability to loose the heat that the case does so maybe the expansion rate of the live shaft exceeds the expansion rate of the case... if so it may be the case with why the dead shaft doesn’t expand as the hub is doing the work creating the heat ?...

I guess at this point all I can offer is Joe Dirts Dads opinion, “How does a positraction rear end work on a Plymouth!, Who cares it just does!” 😂

Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov. 2018 at 8:57am
I believe you Lee. I’m surprised that it makes that much difference but I’m guessing it has been researched and tested.

Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:


Every time I see detail photos of jpet's Bam Bam, all his smartly engineered upgrades, I think how it must piss off the originality snobs in the MVPA....
.... it shouldn’t. BAM BAM is a Jeep made of parts. Even though the title of the thread has the word “Modified”, no actual g503s were modified in the build.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 2:13am
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

Yup, sometimes the drivetrain just doesn't like going into front dig. I think having the rear locker open sometimes helps that. Having an automatic seems to make it more possible too. Slight changes in front to rear gear ratios could cause issues too. 
. In my case it doesn’t matter I had the same problem with the rear elocker when it was unlocked.
Quote ....Did you end up trying an automatic front locker and selectable rear locker yet? I know you fought some lock-unlock-lock issues with the Eaton unit. .....
still select/auto. I want to run the rear auto this winter on the pavement/snow to see for myself what the fuss is all about. Then I may go auto/auto, then auto/select so that I can analyze and compare every combo for myself. The problem with the Eaton elocker is that it tends to disengage without warning if the voltage drops. The solution seems to be to get rid of the connector at the pumpkin and solder the wires direct. On Pritchett 1.0 there were several instances where the elocker was disengaging. For Pritchett 2.0 I cut the connector out and soldered the wires. Problem solved. JeepFever, sonoblast77, and I have all had the same problem and resolved it by removing the connector.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 5:35am
Did the Dana 18 help you out at all on this trip?
Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by chasendeer chasendeer wrote:

Did the Dana 18 help you out at all on this trip?
Jay
As far as clearance? ... I'm not really sure. I never got hung up on anything. As far as comfort to shift from 2WD to 4WD and low to hi, yes, much better.

Edit: the new fuel cell was MUCH better. No vapor locking, and No fumes coming up in the cab like I have had in the past. I need to coil my vent tube up some to keep gas from spilling out on steep climbs but other than that, VERY pleased.

Edited by jpet - 12 Nov. 2018 at 2:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2018 at 8:46pm
How did the new mods work out? What's next?

The way you guys are burning through trails in Moab, you should go hike RearSteer/Big Balls next so you have something to work on for a few years. Embarrassed


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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