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Tie Rod Removal

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AlaskaCJ2A View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Dec. 2006 at 3:55pm
I'm preparing to remove the front end steering components, and looking for some advice and precautionary measures to be taken.  The steering gearbox and drag link are out.  I now wish to remove the tie rods from the bellcrank and steering arms.  After removal of the castellated nuts from the tie rods, at the bellcrank and at the left and right steering arms, it is apparent that they do not just slip out easily.  What is the best way to drop these out without damage to the components, and while keeping the entire assembly relatively intact?  Must the left and right tie rods be separated from each other first, or can the entire assembly be dropped out?  Thanks for any and all help which may or can be offered!
 
Tony
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wyowillys46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2006 at 4:02pm
You could use a pickle fork (yes that's a real tool) but it will tear up the dust boots. No problem if they need replacing anyways.  They're cheap. The other way is to screw the castellated nuts back on enough so it's covering the threaded portion and tap with a brass or plastic covered hammer.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2006 at 4:08pm
There is a tool called a tie rod spreader/separator that is exactly for this purpose and the best way to separate the tapered shaft on the tie rod joint from the tapered hole in which it fits so tightly.
 
Don't know what they cost today.  When I was a teenager ages ago, our postman saw me struggling with the problem, and the next day he brought the tool in his mail bag.  I will not forget Mr. Holt!  It was in 1958!  He had been a Jeep mechanic in the Army.
 
Here's a link - -
 
 


Edited by samcj2a - 09 Dec. 2006 at 4:11pm
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AlaskaCJ2A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlaskaCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2006 at 4:13pm

Thanks Morgan!  Never heard of a pickle fork before - does it just spread and pry the rod ends off of the shaft?  You mentioned "tapping" on the reinstalled nuts with a dead blow - tried that gently, but no response - made me wonder if some form of special tool must be used to prevent damage, or if some further disassembly must precede removal.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlaskaCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2006 at 4:20pm
Thanks for the link, Sam - had heard of this tool, but having never disassembled front ends was unsure exactly what it was for - now I know!  But is it possible, or even advisable, to achieve the separation without the tool while avoiding damage?  I'll buy one if I need to, but already have a toolbox full of those "use 'em once every other decade" type of tools.  Have any others of you out there ever had any success tapping them out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2006 at 6:01pm
There are a number of tools to do this job, normally though I use a hammer (not a plastic or brass), and hit the part that the tapered shaft goes through, (not on the nut itself) just took the front end of my 2a apart a week ago and they came apart easily, unlike some others I have done in the 37 years I have been a mechanic, I even have a 10 pound hand hammer for the really stubborn ones, it sometimes helps to use a prybar to put tension on the shaft while you're hitting it, can't do this on the modern stuff anymore, all the components are light alloy, then you need the special tools, I have one just for Porsche and it was a $450.00 tool, but there's no other way sometimes. Back to the hammer method, I've always been somewhat concerned about hurting the piece I'm hammering on, but in all this time I've never damaged one, I guess though there's always a first time, good luck. hope this helps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefisch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2006 at 11:29am

I use Gale's method.  You want the parts held firmly.  Hit the end of the female part.  You don't want to beat the heck out of it - just sharp blows.  More is better than harder. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2006 at 1:36pm
Always used Gale's method till a few years ago when I scored a couple pickle forks at a farm sale in a box of odd and ends for two bucks. They do damage the dust covers but way easier.
Just drive the fork into the "gap"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlaskaCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2006 at 3:18pm
Thanks Gale, Jim, and Allen, for the most helpful input - and special thanks to you Allen for the great pic - I now have a handle on the situation - wanted to make sure of what I was doing before diving right in and possibly damaging something.  Front ends are not my forte, obviously, but with the help of all the fine folks on this forum, I am filling in all of the gaps which exist in my knowledge base.  Thanks again, and Happy Holidays!
 
Tony
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2006 at 5:00pm
I bought a pickle fork "kit" for my pneumatic chisel gun for about $35., well worth the money. Has different size forks. www.eastwoodco.com may carry something like it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2006 at 8:32pm
  'boyd's picture is great, but the fork will be more effective if it is driven in paralel with the arm, rather than across it. Many parts stores will loan or rent you a fork. I've often found that the "strike the end of the arm" method can be quicker, works if you don't have a fork, and I've always wondered about the stress that the fork may place on the ball and the socket of the joint.  .02  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2006 at 11:39pm
Tony,
I have a pickle fork if you want to borrow it. I use it as a last resort since it will usually destroy the dust cover.  My favorite trick is to put a heavy hammer on one side of the arm and tap the other side with a lighter one.  No load on any bearings that way. If it doesn't come, I replace the lighter hammer with a rattle gun. This will do the trick unless things are rusted tight; in this case, it's the pickle fork and maybe some cussin'.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jefisch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2006 at 6:14pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

  'boyd's picture is great, but the fork will be more effective if it is driven in paralel with the arm, rather than across it.
 
More important than that would be to remove the nut & cotter pin. 
 
 
(Sorry, I couldn't help myself.   Big%20smile)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2006 at 6:34pm
Nut? Cotter pin? Dang nab it Ermm Thanks Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlaskaCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2006 at 8:25pm
Nut?  Cotter Pin?  Hell, no wonder she won't budge!  LOL   Thanks Jim, for the good laugh  LOL, and thanks to you Bruce for the good advice as well.  I now feel as though I can speak with some element of wisdom on the subject of tie rods.
  Speaking of cotter pins and their removal, anyone heard of a "booger hook"?  If you don't have one of those you should get one - makes stubborn cotter pin removal a snap (hopefully not literally).  Bought mine from MAC many years ago, and find it to be an invaluable part of my tool collection.
 
Tony


Edited by AlaskaCJ2A - 11 Dec. 2006 at 8:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlaskaCJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2006 at 8:44pm
Ken,
 
Thanks for the helpful advice.  I have a rivet gun that I sometimes use with a flush set as an "air hammer" for stubborn removals, but only as a last resort.  I don't drive too many rivets anymore, so that is it's primary job now.  And yes, isn't it funny how the "cussin" usually helps?  LOL  Learned that early on as an A&P, and in the carpentry trade!  Seen alot of tools flung across the shop as well!  Confused 
 
I sent you a PM in regards to your most gracious offer.
 
Tony


Edited by AlaskaCJ2A - 11 Dec. 2006 at 8:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JonJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2020 at 4:32pm
I know this is a really old post but today I thought, I know I will check my wheel alignment. Never done it before so I read up about it and and thought let’s give it a go. Anyway checked to see if drivers side was straight , not to bad. Passenger side, well it had more angle of attack than an aircraft wing! So I undid the tie rod clamps and went to adjust. Stuck fast! Gave it a tap, stuck fast. Tried my trusty plumbing grips, stuck fast! Any ideas anyone? Looks a lot like it’s either rusted in or, possibly the tie rod looks a little bent. Would that cause it?
Not keen on having to take it all off as described in this post so any bright ideas would be welcome. Btw the driver side rod moved smooth as silk! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2020 at 12:15pm
Try some "Kroil" penetrating oil, squirt a good dose on the threads and let is sit a couple days, and that might free it up but not if it is bent.

New tie rods and new ends make the job a lot easier, and you can even upgrade to a heavier set. I think "Herm the Overdrive Guy" sells a heavy duty set, but what I have on my CJ2A are the heavier tie rods used by the military on the M38A1 Jeeps. 
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