Fuel Injection

I just read through this once again.

I like those Conrods for higher highway rpm. but I cannot afford them.

And, I have been tossing around in my mind of using the throttle body off of an '89 Honda Civic engine and grafting it over to my L134 engine.

   I am just too busy with other projects to even look through the local Pick-n-Pull yard for a Donor vehicle with a Throttle-Body unit.
   Get this:   Rochester makes the factory fuel injection for the 3.2L Isuzu V-6 multiport injection. So, that tells me that the individual auto mfr's do not make their own fuel injection, it is "sourced-out" to the major mfr's.

   I wonder who made the OZ unit that was shown on the thread start ?

   I am going to have to go snooping around the small autos for a throttle body and engine control system. :)

   The challenge may be to 'perfect' the location of the O2-sensor for proper sensing which will require a good analyzer to read fuel-air ratios and block temp sensor operation. Many things to adjust once the system is in place.
   oh, you were going to set your idle speed ?   nope, the ecm controls it on most throttle bodies with a TPS.
    Did you digest your TPS report today ?    hahaha you got the memo right !

    Just teasing, but the more I delve into working on fuel injected auto engines, the are really pretty basic. The TPS (throttle position sensor) tells the ecm to hold the injector's open longer for acceleration with throttle butterfly open.   All good stuff. Now, I need to get a handle on the newer O2 sensors which have a variable reading rather than a fixed reading.
   My brain is getting flooded with trying to digest so much information that is shared here on the forums, that I had better end this dissertation, and move on to another sector thread.
   There is one nice thing about fuel injection - Instant Start-up.

   Len

Welcome to the page, beentheredonethat!  Lots of us have been wondering for 4 years what's become of this project.

Just wondering what ever became of this project?

This is actual measurements of a L/F134 conrod minus the slot and designed for interference fit using the original pistons gudgeon pins and bearings. No more pinch bolt or designed in weakness. i am waiting on the actual set now.

Exciting stuff Micjen. I'm especially interested in your injection set up. Being in NZ, we have a lot of the same junk yard stuff as you instead of the (American) GM bits used on peoples setups in the states. What dizzy etc are you planning on and will it trigger injection or are you fitting a crank angle sensor too?

eestes1 wrote: Micjen, I am worried now about your comment on using modern detergent oil in an unrestored engine. I just changed my 48 CJ 2 A's 30 weight oil and replaced with 10W-30. Where does the sludge "come out" to? Can I just run it it briefly and change the oil (to 10W 30) several times? Or does the entire engine need to be torn down and cleaned internally? Would removing the oil pan and cleaning it be enough? Thanks.

who makes the connecting rods you have shown

This is one item I am definitely placing inside my L134 engine. Improved conrods. They are not cheap at $1,200 a set but have a much higher red line than standard max is about 6,000 rpm. naturally everything else has to be upgraded to make use of it but the potential is there if built in.

Look at this bad boy. Nice piece of work. The original piston gudgeon pin is now a press fit rather than using a pinch bolt and slot right through the little end.

Using detergent oil in an unrestored engine probably won't give problems 99% of the time. It depends on prior useage, oil change history, internal cleanliness etc.

Its basically a judgement call however I have seen what can happen if an engine was previously unserviced then bought by a new owner then subjected to regular maintenece again.

An inspection on what can be got at easily such as the side cover and inside the sump should reveal the truth. Again 99% of the time there won't be an issue if previous service history has been fastidious.

Its just one of those things can can happen. I had to figure out why a chev v6 had no oil pressure once. Every person the guy had been to had failed. I traced it to an oil change. The guy had used a cheap funnel with a wire screen. Sure enough one of the strands came off. The oil pump picked it up and it got stuck in the pressure relief valve.

Many a time I came across engines with sludge so bad one could not see the tappets. basically just a groove where the crank runs and tappets move. yet they seemed full of oil. If in doubt take a look under the skin.

Cheers, Michael