A little project update on Chug A Lug

Yea guide coat paint is on my shopping list for next trip into town. I think once I get setup here in a couple days to shoot the Hi Build primer that will give me a much better idea of what my sub straight actually looks like.


This 3M filler really shows you variations on how much hardener you use in a batch. The Blue creme hardener will turn the stuff baby puke green if you get to much LOL

I just slapped a nice thick coat of the stuff all over the top of the left fender it will cure over night and I can sand 75% of it off tomorrow.

One unique side benefit of doing the Filler is its quiet. My shop is directly below the bedroom with no insulation in the floor. So anything downstairs is heard upstairs. And the wife typically goes to bed between 8:30 and 9:00 while I tend to stay up quite late in the winter when not working.

I been leaving my shop stereo on all the time so that she will always have some background sound so I can make a little noise. But running a machine is out of the question. SO Body filler is perfect I just need to do the metal prep and banging early in the day then I can at least get a coat of filler on and sanded in the late evening when normally I would be stuck with my drawing pencil Note pad and TV. 

SO I started actual body filler work yesterday. On the top of the right fender. Now both my fenders had been messed with before. And of course my changing the size of the battery notch on the right and replacing the panel with the louvers in it on the left as well as both Fender Gussets did nothing to help their flatness.

A while back a wrestled around with them for a day or two getting them as close to level and parallel as I could.

I now know beyond a shadow of a doubt my Idea of a flat Willys Jeep Panel and Chugs Idea of the same are very different.

OR maybe I should be judging things with an 18" Machinists rule. Seams like I hold it on there shine my light behind it to see any gaps and if there is one its like 1/64th to 1/32nd inches deep I then smear some more of this excellent 3M filler in the area and wait the required amount of time then I carefully with a 17" long flat board sander smooth it out. Yet checking it later theres still a little gap. Maybe I shouldn't worry about such a ting gap until I am in the Hi Build Primer stage.

At any rate Waiting for the 2" aluminum Defroster ducting to show up on the Brown truck so I can finish that project. And will be doing one panel at a time until all this is ready for Primer.

Going to have to figure out how to do some priimering as I go can't let all this shinny steel sit out to long.

Ol' Unreliable wrote: Mark W. wrote: I was thinking about putting a couple of them Snowmobile hand grip warmers in the wifes seat. She really liked the heated seats in a rental BMW we had in Germany once LOL. I've never seen a need for heated seats myself.  I warm 'em up okay the old-fashioned way...

Does that involve baked beans or curry and then the hot air produced by them?

Yea if you have a fresh air intake system for the heater you can do that. With a recirculating air heater like the Summit Heater I have any air moving through the core will move heat into the cabin. ON a 79 they don't have a Temp control on the heater? as normally that would be the water valve.  I'm setting this one up like the heater in my 66 F-250 (minus the fresh air) It had three controls 3 speed fan, Temperature (water control valve) and Defrost (air baffle directing the output from the heater to the cabin or defroster).

I was thinking about putting a couple of them Snowmobile hand grip warmers in the wifes seat. She really liked the heated seats in a rental BMW we had in Germany once LOL. 

Mark,

Mark,

OK so I feel like those guys on TV building Hot Rods with the terrible dead line. I got to work tomorrow and I really wanted the Heater installed in the Tub today. Even though it has to come right out. All this kind of custom stuff has to be done before I can prime and paint so I figured might as well get on with it.

First up is mocking up the mount on the firewall side trying to figure out where to drill holes and what stand offs I would need to match the un even firewall. I used the Lower Air Cleaner Mount hole for one of the Heater Mount holes. SO that kind of locates everything. I did all the drilling and such from the firewall side. Only thing I did under the dash was stuff the thing up in there and bolt it down.



I have a little more then 1/4" between the top of the heater and the underside of the cowl.

This one shows a bunch of details on the right side. The Heater in this Photo is mounted under the dash. The Inlet hose will be a PITA to attach to the Water control Valve unless I do that before stuffing it up in there as its right behind the Dash.



This one is under the Dash showing the Bulkhead fittings. The White PVC tubing will be part of the Conduit that I run my electrical to the back of the tub in. The open hole will also be an electrical Port I have no decided if it will get just a Grommet or a short section of PVC tubing.



This one just shows how much the Heater extends down below the edge of the Dash. I'll also have about a 2" deep Air control box on this but I am thinking it will be angled so as to take up as little room as possible in the foot well.


YES I KNOW ITS CROOKED I'll address that when its in stall for real

Next up is making that air control box and figuring out how I am going to move hot air to the defroster. Current thinking is the Column shift notch above the Steering column since that will be mostly hidden behind the Tach and vacuum Gauge on the Steering column. I just wish it was bigger (and may end up bigger before I am done!)


Edited by Mark W. - 29 Jan. 2018 at 6:45am

GOOD thats what the Wife likes She can run a blanket down to the heater vents and keep warm while I run around in a tee shirt with the window open. I would venture through the guy did not have a water control valve on the heater so it ran full out all the time and the only thing he could adjust was the speed of the fan. I'm not making that mistake LOL.

Photo of whole roll bar fabbed up and ready to tack weld.



And today's fiddling around with the Summit Heater I am putting in CHUG. I mounted a 1966 Ford Bronco water control valve on the box and figured out the best way to route hoses using as few hose clamps as possible. The 90 degee brass PEX elbow will get turned down a little and it along with another PEX elbow will get sweat soldered into a 1/2" copper pipe coupler so the Hose can go in a gentle curve to the bulk head fitting. Left the hose long until I figure out where this is going to mount and distance to Bulkhead fittings.

Having the water valve under the dash may seam a little wrong but theres just no room in the engine compartment for it based on some other things that will be on the Firewall and this way running a control cable to it is brain dead easy. Also if it starts leaking I'll know right away!




Edited by Mark W. - 27 Jan. 2018 at 6:44am