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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Mar. 2024 at 7:00pm
No the dual fire extinguishers is a direct result of the Harp top. Trying to get either fire extinguisher from the open door on the side it is mounted on is a BIG PITA While reaching across from the seat to pop the quick release and lift the bottle off the little hook its on is very easy.

I have had two vehicle fires and on the first watched most the interior in my 1940 Dodge coupe burn up while the guy  in the car in front of me with a cast on one wrist try to wrestle his fire extinguisher out of the loose bracket it was attached to was VERY frustrating. The Second one was a junker pickup I was bringing home to strip parts off of and we ended up putting the fire out with dirt, NOT the best way to go about it.

I have also put out a car fire where someone fuel line got a leak and started an under hood fire. Luckily I got there with my extinguisher right before the idiot got his hood open (he would have been toast) I shot the dry chemical up under the grill and put the fire out right away.

I have also had an electrical system in a van try to become one with itself and luckily was able to cut the battery cable (battery in the Van was behind the drivers seat engine in a Dog house) Other wise I am sure that would have ended in a fire.

At work I have used my extinguisher to put a brake fire out on one of our heavy haul trucks when his was just not enough did this along I 5 one morning.

So yea two is better then one and one is maybe no where near enough.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2024 at 6:27pm
Two fire extinguishers?
As we say in the Marines --- "Two is one, one is none".

Expecting electrical trouble?


Edited by Ron D - 26 Mar. 2024 at 6:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2024 at 6:07pm
So wanting to drive around between now and when I can get the top painted I decided that while the aluminum won't be rusting I did not want the Body filler and Glazing putty to absorb any water. So I went down and picked up a cheap can of Krylon Fusion paint/primer in a Satin White and covered all the Body filler. Not a great paint job but as it will be sanded off in a month or so I wasn't worried about anything but covering the filler.

It does from a distance give one an Idea of how the White top will look with the Pacific Blue jeep.

It also lets me know the front corners are good as is.


And a closer look at the Left front


I'm seriously thinking on running up North to Joe Jenkins Last Wednesday get together tomorrow evening. Be about 90 miles each way. Bummer having to go through Portland in Heavy afternoon traffic. But it is what it is. I might swing around Portland have to take a look at the map. Might be worth an extra 1/2 hour to avoid that dump hole.

I'm going to work on a better seal for the Windshield vent as I noticed in my aquatic run home from Albany last month that water was coming in though the top edge of the vent. Might be a good spot to try some of my new weather stripping foam.

ANYWAY Next on to priming and weather stripping the Passenger door.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2024 at 1:37am
Short and to the point .

The front corners are ready for primer. 


They are both now enclosed contoured and weather stripped. Everything's sanded down to 220grit. They will set that way rain or shine until I can get the doors skinned and then I'll start prepping the whole top for primer. I can do that as I go with Aluminum no worry about rust. Ideally I would scuff it all up one weekend then get the majority of it masked off. And Primed the next weekend. Once primed a blocking with 400 grit and it will be ready for the Epoxy sealer and right away after the Arctic White top coats. Thinking about 4 good coats maybe five so I got plenty to color sand and buff.

Then I touch up all the scratches and chips in the Blue and Black and I'm done. It can gracefully make its way back the patina.

I got a few things on the mechanical to do list like finally getting the OD to stay in Direct, adjusting the E brake, an Oil change and Lube job, looking at changing some steering geometry, adding a way to add tension to my hand throttle, and choke, Oh and I want to add more spring to my throttle it likes to float a bit before going back to idle.

Always something


Edited by Mark W. - 25 Mar. 2024 at 2:11am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2024 at 5:49pm
OK took longer then I thought but the Passenger corner is currently ready for High build primer and then my White Epoxy Sealer when I get to painting the Top.

I started to get everything screwed together yesterday and ended up adding another block to the internal support for the corner. And I fiddled around with the little pieces of Micarta that seal off the end of the Rain gutter. The Screwing together worked out pretty well the tiny 4-40 and 6-32 flat head screws held everything in place very well. The JB Weld glued everything together and filled in a couple little gaps. I remembered to weather strip the Aluminum curve prior to gluing it in place> I let the JB Weld set up over night then I went out and sanded everything smooth contoured the corner and once that was as good as it was going to get I broke out the body filler and gave it all a skim coat. The using a 22" long flat board I got that worked down and finally touched up any little imperfections with some Spot putty and a good smoothing with 220 grit. Its hard to see in a two dimensional photo exactly how it looks. At least until I get it all one color.

Anyway some photos





Hopefully the Drivers side will go as well and take less time as I now know what I am doing and have premade a number of the parts to this. As long as I don't drop any more of the 1/4" long screws I only bought 4 spare.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2024 at 3:06am
After almost two year obsessing on how to make the front corners on the hard top Yesterday I just went at it and ended up with a simple easy design that looks pretty good flows into the windshield as well as can be expected considering I should have made the front of the top about 1/2" wider over all. 

Now to score some tiny 4-40 x 1/8" long flat head screws to hold the single piece of .040" aluminum that wraps around the corner to the front edge of the Top and then to add a couple longer screws to hold the other edge to the Micarta blocks I will be using to hold it in place. Going to bond this little piece with JB weld as well. That way I can use the JB Weld to fill the little gaps and such. I Had to work today other wise the assembly's would be curing over night right now.

This is such a load off my brain. And it turned out so simple. I used the hyd. press a piece of heavy angle iron and a heavy wall aluminum tube to put about a 2" D bend in a piece of aluminum about 4" X 6" then just started whittling it down until it fit. Once I had the one on the right done I made a masking tape pattern and after bending another piece of .040" I centered the pattern on the curve and cut it out. A little more whittling and I had both aluminum pieces done.

The Micarta blocks that will secure the door side of the curve came from my scrap pile and except for getting the curve on one of them to match the Windshield corner curve were super simple to make. I need to look really close at how this all goes together tomorrow to make sure I don't screw up being able to get the top off should I decide to.

I will need to put the weather stripping on the back side of the Aluminum before I glue and screw it in place. I'm also going to make a small Micarta block to wedge into the end of the Rain gutter to lock the little tab of aluminum that goes into that area. This is one of the places I have to figure out how to assemble without causing disassembly problems later. Maybe some carefully placed wax paper to control the JB weld.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2024 at 2:27am
Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

Be sure & get the area located!


Only thing in the area is my sewer line. All our utilities are over head and on the other side of the house. WE dug about a 30" deep hole when we put the tree in and I won't go anywhere near that to grind out the stump. I have an intimate Knowledge of where that stupid sewer line runs as I have been up to my alligators with a snake cleaning it out. It does go near the tree but is about 3 ft down by the time it gets there. NO WAY I'm grinding that deep. Its Plastic pipe with no tracer so Locating its a guess anyway. 

But yes always a good caution to offer. 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2024 at 2:22am
OH good grief I just got an email about a new Cobra CB that is the upgrade for the one I have in my pickup. This one is a all in one with all controls in the Mic's and a WIRELESS connected control box that can be mounted most anywhere in the vehicle. And the Mic only needs to plug into a USB which I have on the ceiling above the GMRS radio. I would end up with just two mic's hanging from the ceiling. Its AM/FM with weather channels. No SSB but its also $80 cheaper then the President George.

Hmm I can really reduce the size of the console if I get the CB out of it. Then I can move the passenger seat 1.5" to the left. That would get the wife some elbow room.

Decisions decisions.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2024 at 10:03pm
SO I spent the day today working on the passenger side of CHUG. trying to gain a little elbow room for the Wife (she's Adjective deleted in the interest of living longer) Anyway she needs more bottom and shoulder room. With the hard top as the doors angle directly from the Rear hinge line to the Windshield frame and are approx. 1.125" thick inside that line. SO it robs some of the elbow room.

First thing I did was to change the Window tightening knobs to eliminate three of them. I had originally had 1/4-20 flat head bolts counter sunk into the 1/8" aluminum that is currently the outside of the door (until everything about the doors is finished then I will skin them with .040" like the rest of the Top) Then it had the Plastic knobs with brass inserts screwed on the inside to be able to tension the weather stripping when the window is inserted.. These dug into her arm.,

I replaced the Counter sunk bolts with Steel T Nuts that I have set in flush. I am using JB weld to secure them. I used bolts to pull them into the enlarged counter sunk holes I even drilled 4 little shallow holes in the beveled edge of the counter sink and 4 holes through the flange part of the Nut to make sure once the door is skinned they won't be able to rotate.

I will now replace the Knobs on the inside with Flat head Bolts counter sunk into the weather striping tension thingy. This will gain her 3/8" of elbow room with nothing to poke into her arm.

Next up was the Console. I can't really do much with it but I could put a couple pieces of left over Polyurethane body mount pads 7/16" thick under the Right side of the console causing it to tip to the left maybe another 3/8" along the top edge. I then removed the rear half of the Lid and as much as possible with something only a little over 1/8": thick I rounded the sides. Again to reduce the digging in aspect. I then did a crappy job of repainting it and will end up revisiting that.

And now we come to the seat itself. It occurred to me if I shimmed up the back of it. Then it would raise her bottom in relationship to that edge of the console and maybe even help her elbow position a little. SO I added a 1/4" thick Body mount pad to where the Frame rests on the Wheelhouse and made a new Rubber foot for the Inside rear corner. This raises the seat about 1/2" in the rear. Not sure how much this gained.

And finally I finished up the Interior panel for the door as her elbow was ridding on the square frame work and this would eliminate that even if being a little padding.

I haven't asked her to sit in it yet (its in the shop backwards and the Pass door can't open all the way so I have to move the pickup then pull the jeep out and turn it around first.


All this done. If it doesn't gain enough to make her comfortable. I know whats next. A NEW CB radio!!!!

Ok so thats confusing. I have a COBRA 29 which is a big radio 8.625" long add the COAX connector for the Antenna and it takes a big console to mount it in the console almost vertical.

The New President George AM/FM/SSB WX etc. that just came out is only 6.77" deep Same width and Height so would take a 1.85" shorter console to contain it. My Pioneer Digital Stereo in the console is really short like less then 6" so that's no problem.

If I rebuild the console I can gain at least 2" in vertical height and I am sure I can find at least an Inch to move it to the left there is plenty of room before it hits my seat frame. The combo of these tow things would allow me to move the Passenger seat frame to the left at least 1.5" giving her more elbow room.

Now I just have to decide to drill out all them rivets and take the console apart so I can rebuild it smaller. At least I won't need a bunch of new material to do it. Maybe a little 3/4 thin wall angle to replace the corners.

WOW the things a guy has to do for love.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2024 at 12:09am
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

 SO renting a stump grinder is the plan.


Don't know about out there but around here a 12" maple stump could be hired ground out for probably cheaper than one of those Wahoovian fuel cans.....I wouldn't want to rent one for one stump but that's just me.

Was it cut for your city curb project?  Any city r.o.w. trees cut here gets ground out on the city's dime ( if you stay after them)




No sadly we lost the maple in 2022 during a freezing rain Ice storm that decimated this area so much vegetation was destroyed the city had everyone bring their trees and such to the old grade school lot which ended up being covered ( the lot is now where Silvertons new shinny City Hall and Police Station is if they ever get it finished) I want to say by the time they got done grinding it all up it was 40) Chip trailers 48-53ft worth of material to be hauled off. 

Before the Ice Storm (which took out almost all the power in town for 3-4 days) We had just paid some goobers $800 to come trim both the Maple and a Pie Cherry in the backyard. The wife took it upon herself to arrange all that. The end results was they pretty much killed the Cherry cutting it down so far. And only took less then half the material out of the maple I wanted. But by the time I got home from work they were long gone.

When the guys were working on the street this last fall I had them try to use one of their excavators to pull the stump on the maple which was a good 4ft tall where it split and I cut it off to remove the busted tree. But all they managed to do was break the above ground section off the stump The roots were to well established. SO now I have this 6-8ft diameter raised area in the little front yard that is full of roots and such to clear out. And since we need to completely redo the front yard and put in new drainage I'll have to rototill and that can't happen with all the Roots. 

 Its punishment for not getting more of the house work done the wife has been on me for 10 years about while I worked on CHUG. I accept this.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 8:52pm
Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

Be sure & get the area located!

Oh that's a real good thought too!

Don't wanna be grinding through any 'utilities' !!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 8:48pm
Be sure & get the area located!
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 7:41pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

 SO renting a stump grinder is the plan.


Don't know about out there but around here a 12" maple stump could be hired ground out for probably cheaper than one of those Wahoovian fuel cans.....I wouldn't want to rent one for one stump but that's just me.

Was it cut for your city curb project?  Any city r.o.w. trees cut here gets ground out on the city's dime ( if you stay after them)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 6:54pm
i drilled holes in a big stump, poured old gas in, and let'er rip. but some say gas is dangerous. and from the sound of the no saltpetre idea i suppose gas would be in a similar category. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 6:34pm
Oh I guess I could lock the cans but my security is not for the fuel. Its for the $180.00 in cans. Wavian fuel cans run $90.00 each. The fuel even at Poo dunk Eastern Oregon wouldn't be more then $60.00 and it takes a long time to suck 10 gallons of fuel out of a couple cans. I should have plenty of time to put my pants on get out of the tent and decide where to bury the bodies. J/K

The jeep parks in my locked shop which is down stairs from my bed and a wall away from the Living room. Plus the only time both these cans will be on the jeep is when we are on an adventure that would involve limited fuel availability. Like into FAR SE Oregon Northern Nevada and SW Idaho. Most of the time my single can rides around empty no need to drag an extra 32 lbs of fuel around if I can just drop into a gas station.

Once I do a little test driving on this mount and the Propane tank mount they will both come off until needed in August.

I'm doing this now because in a the most a couple weeks I will be back to work for the season and having time to fiddle around with something in the shop gets very limited especially this summer with having to rebuild the WHOLE front yard after the Street rebuilding winds up in a week or two.

Anyone know any tips on Stump grinding? Thats the first thing I have to do is take out a 12" D Maple tree stump that is busted off at the ground level. And the wife says I can't use any Charcoal, Sulfur and Saltpeter to do it LOL.  SO renting a stump grinder is the plan.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 5:58pm
Are the lids on the gas cans lockable?
Couldn't a thief just siphon them off when you aren't on guard duty?

Curious.......how many keys does it take to operate and secure CHUG?


Edited by Ron D - 18 Mar. 2024 at 6:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2024 at 4:51pm
OK one more step on the way to CHUG becoming an Adventure rig. I finally after much fiddling around have my dual 20L fuel can mount in place. It mounts on the same for bolt holes as the single can mount. I did have to come up with a different way to hold the cans in place and lock them down. This is the third version, I like this one as it makes the Padlock almost impossible to get to with a bolt cutter or a grinder. Of course the straps are exposed and could be cut.

I'm not worried about the load as I got up and stood in the two can holders (sorry no silly photo) So that's a safety factor of at least 2.5-3 times the fuel and can weight.

I had to use a lot of 1/4" Aluminum to make the mount. But it was just sitting in a package from eBay I hadn't even opened it was supposed to be part of the curves on the Hard top long ago.

Still working out how I want the spout stored. It was my intention to strap a water jug to use for Gray water on top of the cans butI am now thinking I will just use one of my collapsible buckets as  I do not plan on packing the Gray water anywhere but want a way to keep it away from camp. And I already store those behind the Spare tire.

Next comes something I'm clueless on and thats a compact way to store my 2 ton come a long. I had thought about some sort of thin wall PCV pipe but it turns out the Pipe would be quite big so I'll figure something else out.




24) nuts Bolts and about 48 Washers to bolt it all together And almost all the bolts had to be cut down in length.



I am so glad I went to the PITA to wire up a Third Brake light on the Hard top from some angles its had to see the Left tail ligh tsay in a raised pickup sitting a little to the right of center and to close. Just another way to make CHUG a little easier to see.





Edited by Mark W. - 18 Mar. 2024 at 4:53pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Mar. 2024 at 1:55am
SO the problem: My Pioneer tool rack hangs off the Tail Light panels on the rear of the tub. The mounts have been very well reinforced on the inside of the Wheel house. BUT I plan on swinging this rack with a Spare tire, TWO 20L fuel cans and their mounts, A shovel an Axe a Bow saw a 2 ton come along, the Wifes little Aluminum step stool (sometimes she needs help to get in) SO thats a bunch of Weight. And when camping I want to be able to swing this rack and all that weight straight out behind CHUG so I can pull a Kitchen contained in a Drawer like unit out putting one end on the open tailgate and supporting the outboard end with fold down legs.  And while I am sure its not going to rip itself off the back of the jeep. A night of blustery winds shaking the jeep a little would do the mounts no good at all.

SO the solution. Find a very light weight way to support that loose end of the rack so that the weight is split between the Mounts on the Tub and the support.

I looked at a couple three different ways to do this. The support has to be adjustable for terrain as well as easy to setup and break down. I wanted it light weight and of course sturdy.

This is what I came up with:



Its a 7/8"D .065" wall Aluminum tube the base is a 1/8" T 4" D aluminum disk attached to a piece of turned round Micarta. It has a center hole that is a press fit for the tube (It took my hydraulic press to assemble it. The Aluminum disk is then attached to the Micrata with 4) Flat head screws. The base has a Notch cut in it to facilitate its storage against the bottom of the Tool Rack. Inside the top of the tube is an Aluminum collar with a over sized boss on top and a 1/2"D center hole. Into this hole is a 9" piece of 1/2"-13t All thread with Two nuts jammed tight together and then turned down to a loose slip fit inside the tube (this keeps the all thread from being able to come out past the collar which again is press fit into the Tube) On top of the all thread is a threaded bar that acts as an adjustment by pressing down on the top of the collar. And then to top it all off I made what looks like and internally threaded Rod end. This then pivots on a 3/8" bolt  passing through a pair of 3/16" thick Aluminum plates bolted to either side of the Tool rack. I used a Nylon locking nut so I  could adjust the tension as I want the Prop rod to swing into place when needed.

You can't see the rod end but you get the idea from this photo


And on the other end is the little keeper pin I made its a 5/16" G8 Bolt turned down to a 1/4" pin that sticks into a hole in the base plate. The 5/16" threads thread it into the Aluminum angle to hold it in place. I am waiting for the fancy little Knurled threaded knob to show up to finish this part. The little Knob is the ONLY part of this that did no come from my stock pile of stuff. The notch in the base plate is now obvious what its purpose is. And it has a side benefit allowing the Aluminum angle to be closer to the base plate as it swings up to store.


The best part is its completely up and out of the way


This thing maybe weighs a couple pounds brackets nuts and bolts and all yet will actually lift the whole back of the jeep. Granted I have only raised it an inch or so. But it works really well.

SO another turning CHUG into a mini RV problem solved LOL

And my Zinc Chromate primer showed up and the weather should be good for painting so this weekend I am going to get the Passenger door interior and Window weather stripping done.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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