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A little project update on Chug A Lug |
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Mark W. 
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7975 |
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 Posted: 22 Oct. 2017 at 7:31pm |
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I am SOOOOOOO tired of grinding off paint. I figure I still have a couple hours on the underside of the hood since it has to be done with a wire brush (on my air drill).
I have to strip the Windshield frame which will be a pain with all its uneven surfaces. And I have some to remove from the Roll Bar But that should go easy as its not a factory paint just a layer of primer and color. ONE Huge bright spot. A guy I have known for maybe close to 40 years and was in the Salem Jeep Club my dad helped found in 1965 stopped by to drop off a present for me. We had a great talk and I got to play show and tell. The Present was one of the original Car Club Plaques like used to be on the Vent panel of Chugs 3A windshield. When Dad left the club they took the Plaque back. The Club hasn't been an active club for decades and this friend happened to have one of the plaques left. He figured I would like having it. NO KIDDING. So here is the Car Club Plaque  I'll do a little cleaning up on the bare metal surface and fill in the two previous mounting holes with some PC-7 Epoxy match up the background texture and repaint it and it will look almost new. I'm going to mount it in the same place Dad had it on the Windshield vent I'll clamp it in place and then using his original holes I'll back drill it and then thread the holes (most likely 10-32's) and mount it from behind so no screws show on the outside. OK back to grinding off paint |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9648 |
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Posted: 22 Oct. 2017 at 7:45pm |
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That's really cool Mark. It'll look good on Chug. I have my Dad's "Green Dragons - Greeley Colo" car club plague from the late 40's-early 50's, and my "Challengers - Greeley" plaque from the 60's. Neither is Jeep-related though, so they just hang in the shop.
 BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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leecarr
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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Posted: 22 Oct. 2017 at 9:49pm |
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Very cool. I feel your pain with the grinding paint deal.
Edited by leecarr - 22 Oct. 2017 at 9:51pm |
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berettajeep
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Posted: 23 Oct. 2017 at 8:53pm |
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That is really cool Mark!
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Unkamonkey
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Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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Posted: 23 Oct. 2017 at 9:37pm |
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Got to agree with the paint removal bit. I spent a few months removing the several layers of paint off of my old MB. (I hate orange). My old MB sported a Henry J piece on the windshield and on a rear fender.
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uncamonkey
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shadow
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Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
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Posted: 24 Oct. 2017 at 4:14am |
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What a great piece of history to come back to the jeep and something your dad had a part of.
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lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7975 |
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Posted: 24 Oct. 2017 at 1:51pm |
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I am now seriously thinking about having my son create a silicone mold (He does a lot of modeling stuff) of the Plaque then casting one from Epoxy to actually place on Chug (I figure it would be a real Target for Theft. That way if it would get stolen I still have the original.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7975 |
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Posted: 05 Nov. 2017 at 9:58pm |
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WOW I think I have all the Welding and Grinding done on the Hood. Now on to the hammer and dolly work. What a PITA. I so want to be done with this metal work.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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leecarr
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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Posted: 07 Nov. 2017 at 1:46am |
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I actually like doing the metal work, just not the grinding part. I had to turn on the heat in the shop for the first time this Sunday. That nasty stuff is a lot nicer when I can open the doors.
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Mark W.
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Posted: 10 Nov. 2017 at 1:22am |
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AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I have tomorrow off and most likely Saturday and the Dispatcher calls me and says so its slowing down (last week was near 55 hours I got 37 in in 4 days this week). Says someone told him I wanted time off so he's thinking a day or so a week.
I might actually get something done on Chug. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7975 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2017 at 12:06am |
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Say what you want I can take it. I spent about 2 hours today beating and pounding on my hood and it is very clear it is well beyond my metal working abilities to return it to a point that less then 1/4" of filler would make it appear flat. I'm just not experienced enough to take something like this and remove all the wows and oil canning not to mention the terrible wow all along the forward edge of the hat channel. The bullet hole in the right side center has done a gentle number on stretching the whole side and the left side seams to be reacting to it.
I don't at this point have the patients to do something half assed and I'm giving up. Summit Racing Sells the Omix-Ada willys logo MD Juan made Hood for $375.00 to my door compared to the same hood from Walcks for $175.00 more. I have 3 weeks work of vacation pay on top of about $700 in savings to spend on the Willys this winter. I was thinking seriously about buying another Handgun (of course the damn thing has to have a $100 rebate going right now) so I figure rather then buy another handgun to sit in a drawer and get payed with a couple three times a year I will save myself a weekend of amateur body work and just buy a repop hood. I know about the slight crown some of them get along the edge below the Logo and of course about the tendency to be tight fitting at the cowl. Both of those are simple fixes for me. And I know it will take less filler to do up a New repop hood then this messed up original. And Les I been looking and no decent hood has magically appeared. I'm going to offer this hood to the guy here in town with the survivor 2A that has a hole in the middle of his (F head transplant) He can either cut a patch panel or paint this one up and use it as is. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Unkamonkey
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Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2017 at 12:30am |
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Wow, things have gotten expensive in the Jeep world. I got the first Jeep (MB) for $500. Of course I did have to do body work and the removal of many layers of paint.
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uncamonkey
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Mark W.
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2017 at 3:23am |
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My current estimate for completion is some where around $18,000.00 USD Of course I am building basically a new Willys flat fender with a few old parts.
I just delivered some gravel to a guy who showed me how even though he is legally blind the property he bought is prefect for him to drive his new fancy Polaris Razor around on (no trees etc) he said he had $30K into it. So in perspective I'm doing it cheap LOL Edited by Mark W. - 12 Nov. 2017 at 3:25am |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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leecarr
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2017 at 4:16pm |
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Sounds like a sensible plan, I did a bit of work on the hood I'm working on. Overall it wasn't bad some tooling marks and a few dips. I didn't bother with the bump below the stamping on the side, there's only one position you can see it from and I figured it to be more bother than it was worth. You'd basically have to slice it, straighten out the bottom edge then weld in a filler piece. When you get it set it on the jeep and see what it looks like. Good luck.
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7975 |
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Posted: 12 Nov. 2017 at 6:15pm |
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Thanks Lee. Going to order the hood later today.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 13 Nov. 2017 at 1:10am |
The decent hood won't show up until you absolutely don't need it. This is the way Jeep-parts-Satan works.  |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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leecarr
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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Posted: 13 Nov. 2017 at 8:12pm |
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Check out my thread "New body prep" in projects it'll give you an idea of what to look for with the new hood.
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Mark W.
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Posted: 18 Nov. 2017 at 7:09pm |
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Well that make 5) I believe. Yes 5) of the $20 Harbor Freight 4 1/2" angle grinders my Willys project has eaten up. This last one lasted quite a while. So as of today I have a good $100 into grinders LOL. Wonder how much a Milwaukee would have cost? OK looks like the good one runs about $100-115.00 Wonder if one of them would have lasted through all this grinding.
This one went to crap making two 10" cuts in 1/4" boiler plate (granted I been using it to remove paint and grind welds for most of the Summer and Fall). I am making the backing plates for my roll bar I was able to get through the second cut deep enough that with a little help from a cut off wheel on the Dremel I was able to break the piece of steel off. I can dress up the cuts on either my vertical metal cutting bandsaw or my 2 x 72" Belt grinder. I am going to put rounded corners on the plates anyway. These two will back up the 4) 10mm x 45mm g 10.9 metric Button heads (using metric in this application as Grade 8 inch thread Buttons do not seam to exist I've looked for them until I am worn out) that are under the main Hoop of the roll bar. For the bolts at the base of the brace tubes I will be using 1/4" x 3" D plates. Partly because of the bracing I have in the Tailgate corner in back to support the Box mounted tire and tool swing away I am going to build tie into the inside rear roll bar bolt hole. And then the other three also have to deal with the Side mount Tire braces I have on both sides of my box. SO using 3" D 1/4" thick washers will work out real nice. I found 10) of them on eBay for $18.00 shipped I'll need 6) of them for this. And to cut them from Boiler plate on my bandsaw would be a LONG PITA. This way all I have to do is drill a Hole and put a little bevel on the edge. And they will be ready to go. OK so sandblasting and painting will also be involved! The rest of the day I am working on the Micrata "Pads" that will sit between the Roll Bar Base Plates and the top of the Wheel houses. Since my Plates are 1/4" 8" x 28" I have to have something to span over the Beads in the top of the Wheel houses. I'm going to make the pads so they allow the Roll Bar Mounting Plate to sit down into them flush and on the inside edge have a nice rounded edge. Should look very finished when I am done. Dad used 3/4" marine grade plywood originally I wanted to go a couple steps past that. OH well off to HF for another cheap assed grinder. Edited by Mark W. - 18 Nov. 2017 at 7:16pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W. wrote: