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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2020 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by drm101 drm101 wrote:

I thought the Hi Lift Jack was mandatory. Everyone seems to have one. I was thinking about slotting my bumpers and using the jack I have that came from my Dad's '67 Tempest since it's been collecting dust anyway. 

I have had two Hi Lift's for decades and have used them extensively from straightening out bale wagon lift tables to pulling many scores of fence posts.  Neither have ever been in or attached to one of my Jeeps and in 50 something years of off roading, there have only been two instances where they may have actually been useful.  This was one of those in 1983-at a place they ran Ultimate Adventure last summer:


A good winch and a snatch block is a much better investment.  And yes, the other end of the cable keeping Mike on that bridge was attached to the Warn on my 3B (via a snatch block).
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2020 at 5:39pm
I thought about that but thats really hard to find in a spray bomb. I could order some from somewhere like Summit there house brand is Kirker paint like I used on the Jeep. But then that takes a week to get here and I want this finished up.

Rumor has it we may have a winter Job coming up and I might not have all the time I thought I did to work on CHUG this winter.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2020 at 12:13am
SO as I was leaving the house to head to NAPA to try to find something to paint this gas can holder with that would hold up to Gasoline it dawned on me I have a WHOLE shop drawer full of Model Airplane dope. Some of it 30 years old now LOL. Dope will hold up to Methanol and Nitromethane as hot as 60% Nitro so it will sure hold up to a little gasoline. So I am painting the inside of the holder with Fokker Red Dope. Should only take about 6 coats to get it thick enough. Good thing it drys fast. I'll paint the outside of the holder (much less likely to get fuel on it) with some Rustoleum Apple Red I have.

I have a nice Inner tube rubber pad to put into the bottom and will add some vertical strips of weather stripping foam to control rattling. Once I have the lock setup I am thinking about it should become ONE WITH the Tire Swing LOL.

Still waiting on that dang Reamer. I bet the second one I ordered will get here before the one that was shipped on the 13th

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2021 at 1:28am
So getting closer on the whole Tire Swing thing. I got the Gas Can holder painted and mounted. The reason before someone asks that one of the bolts is a nut has to do with that point being covered by one of the Micarta Blocks that holds the Axe to the other side of the Swing. It was easiest to run the bolt from the other side.

The Holder you can see the rubber edging I put on it real well in this photo as well as the Inner Tube rubber on the bottom.


And with the Waviar NATO Gas can the wife bought me for Christmas. I am currently working on a simple locking system to help prevent theft. I'd have it done but I used some of my PC-7 Epoxy filler/putty to smooth out a couple not so bad goober welds. And it of course will take 3 days to cure up enough to sand it out and paint.



Still waiting on either one of the .510 Reamers I bought to be able to finish up the Hinge pins and then get to work on the Locks for them.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2021 at 12:30am
So I got the simple gas can lock done. Might still make a little adjustment. I'm not positive the Lock is full engaged. It seamed locked up I have to really squeeze to get it to click.

The bar that comes up to the lock is held on by two 5/16" fine thread button heads threaded right into the Swing top bar. No way to get them unscrewed until the Can is removed. At the top of the Bar is a piece of 3/4" D shaft welded to the top and then cut so it fits tight enough to allow the lock to fit over the can handle the piece of shaft and the Bar. Boron Carbon fancy Lock loop. Its so solid that if I grab the outer handle of the can and try to jerk it around the whole Jeep moves without any slop in the mount.



Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2021 at 1:57am
Decided the other day to start on the Model for my trailer.  it's 1/8" to the Inch scale. The frame is 6.5' long and 28.5" wide basically a trailer version of a Jeep. Tubing will be 2 X 3 X .083" with a couple 1 X 3 X.083 cross members.

The "Box" will fit on top of this sub frame and be Aluminum construction But not welded.



The Silver card stock is aluminum the water tank will sit in an aluminum frame work with 3/4" of foam insulation around it. I'll most likely coat this on the outside with Gluvit epoxy like used on Drift Boat bottoms. Makes it slickery.

I have not decided if I will add a skid plate to the fuel tank its pretty high up only about 4" lower then the bottom of the frame. I might yet to be determined. If I do it will be right on the tank like the skid plate on a CJ oil pan.

Anyway something different for you all to look at.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2021 at 12:01am
Fun stuff!!Clap
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2021 at 1:29am
Any trailer that has the honor of following Chug should have a PTO-driven live axle and disc brakes....
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334
CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2021 at 3:05am
Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:

Any trailer that has the honor of following Chug should have a PTO-driven live axle and disc brakes....


I think I'll  be content with brakes on the trailer  axle.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2021 at 5:53pm
Well the saga of the way word Reamer continues the eBay seller has elected to give me a full refund. Latest tracking on it has it somewhere in transit between here and PA. So I ordered another one. That order has come in and either by my fat finger mistake or being half asleep I ordered a .501" instead of a .510" SO I have ordered another of the proper size its coming USPS Priority so should be here by the end of the week.

Stupid amount of time and money has gone into these dang Hinge pins on the Tire swing. I want this thing done.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2021 at 2:14pm
I find my fingers often get confused when they find themselves left alone on a keyboard.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2021 at 12:00am
OK some stunning progress today. I finally tackled the distributor.

I have a NOS Prestolite IAT-4405 distributor. This is the same Distributor as my dad had in CHUG the only OEM application I have ever seen for it is a 134F powered 61 FC-150. It is a Vacuum advance distributor.

The only real differences I can see between the Autolite version and this one is that the body on the Prestolite is aluminum and it does not have the little oiling port sticking out the side. Other wise all is the same.

NOW the reason I been him and hawing on the distributor is that I wanted a Petronix trigger in it. BUT Petronix does not list a kit for the IAT series of distributors. SO a while back I bought a kit from JEGS that said it would fit (in very general terms) and sure enough the little Magnetic ring fits the Cam perfectly. The problem was where to locate the Pickup.

I had called Petronix tech a while back and the nice guy there told me the Pickup needs to be .030" from the Ring. OK that's easy. But I wanted to mount this on a moving plate. SO it has to be opposite of the pivot point of the plate the points mount on other wise as the Vacuum advance moves the Pickup would get closer to the Ring. So I called the Tech guys again and asked where on the face of the Pickup does the trigger occur. He tells me what I figured that its dead center of the Pickup. OK so I need to locate the Pickup dead Center .030" from a Cam high point. Which required a little surgery.

I had to remove the Points the condenser the Pivot post for the points and the little insulated connection terminal the Points the Condenser and the Wire to the coil all attach to. A little bit of drilling out rivets and some Pliers wiggling took care of that. Then I had to remove the Petronix Pickup from the Plate it was mounted on (for what ever Distributor this kit actually fit).

I then figure out how to locate it and that I would need about a 1/8" thick spacer to raise the Pickup so it did not interfere with the Vacuum advance arm. I was going to use a couple thick washers but then noticing the white grease on the bottom of the pickup I knew I would have to be able to do the same to help transfer heat to the larger plate.

So now come the three trips to the Hardware store and NAPA cause I didn't have the correct ring terminals and I needed some 8-32 Stainless slot head screws to anchor the Pickup to the plate. And then the third trip was to pickup some Heat grease cause on the first trip to NAPA I forgot I needed it.

Beings I already have two of this same number distributor used in my stuff. I picked the nicest looking Plate and did all my surgery to it. That way if in case the Petronix doesn't work I can just drop in the whole new plate and return the NOS distributor to the same condition I bought it and figure out what I did wrong.

And this is what it looks like:


Modified Distributor with original Points Plate above.



Close up of  the Pickup and Ring.

AND after waiting no less then 34 days to get a hold of a 510 Reamer to ream out the Hinge pin holes in the Tire rack so I could get the .500 Stainless hinge Pins to fit through everything it came at like 8:30 last night.

I'm sure I messed up part of one of the holes when drilling up from the bottom the drill grabbed and got it self at a bit of an angle in the Micrata. OH well.

Any how that saga is now ended.

Here is how the Mounted and loaded Tire and Gas can and Pioneer tool rack looks from the rear.

Sorry the photo isn't better I can only get about 5 ft behind CHUG while its parked where its at. SO cramped Quarters.


And from the other side with all the goodies on it. I used regular Zip ties for the Bow saw since the fancy HD releasable ones I bought are about 2" to short.


And from the top down. Nothing closer to the tailgate then about 3/8" so that should be fine. Nothing can move at all on the rack without moving the whole jeep its all very rigid.


SO something actually got done today.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2021 at 12:10am
OH I should tell whats going to happen with that Full Moon cover. I will smooth it all out (it got some bumps in it from having a threaded disc TIG welded to the back side) And then its going to be painted with a modified version of Dads CHUG A LUG and Whiskey Jug art work that was on the hood. Wife said she thought having the name on the hood looks silly (must make wife happy) so its going on the rear wheel cover and then down at the bottom it will say SILVERTON, ORE (as ORE was the abbreviation for Oregon back in Dads day)

I have stencils made of all the Art work and my Grand Daughter who is getting pretty good as a painter and sketch artist is going to do the painting for me.

If you look close on the photo that shows the rack from the back side the little Round Knurled Nut in the center of the Tire rack is what hold the Full Moon Cover in place and the edge trim makes it really snug and protects the wheel.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2021 at 1:49am
Chug appears poised to venture outside its builder's cave soon. Love the 'baby moon' spare wheel cover. Perfect place for the original Chug artwork. It'll be far more entertaining to other road traffic on the back of the jeep, rather than on the hood where few will see it.

CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334
CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2021 at 2:02am
the question now is if I paint the hub cap Pacific Blue before the art work or what I use for the base.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2021 at 2:40am
that rack is super. one suggestion: https://svensaw.com/

the sven saw is super easy to stow and less cumbersome than typical bow saws. made in usa for 60 some years! i have had mine for over 30 years and it is still as reliable as ever. as a top-notch machinist and ingenuitist, i think you would dig it.

Mark, you could work your magic on one of those saws and have an advanced attachment mount and get rid of those cable ties altogether.
CJ-2A 72586 tan (stock)
CJ-2A 197624 green (resto-mod)
the wife abides (def: to bear patiently; TOLERATE)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2021 at 2:21am
OK hinge pins finished (depending on how I do the locks) I turned a couple of Micarta handles and Epoxied them with cross pins to the Stainless steel pins.

The left


The right


I been going around and around on how I want to do the locks and I think I am going to put a 17/64" hole through the pins just below the bottom section of the upper mounting bracket. I have a weird Masterlock that would then fit snug up against the underside of the bracket making it impossible to get a set of Bolt cutters to the lock bar or even to get a Dremel cut off wheel to it.

I realize someone could if they wanted to steal the whole thing just unbolt the top two bracket arms and lift it out of the bottom brackets but gee's thats a whole lot of work for a spare tire and a gas can the shovel is $20 the Axe $25 the Bow saw $10 So the big prize would be the Waviar Gas can at $89 So I don't think I need to worry to much.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2021 at 3:20am
  Mark said: "I don't think I need to worry to much."

Say that again.  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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