A little project update on Chug A Lug |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OH I will If I have tomorrow off as I suspect. I am going to back CHUG out of the shop and clean up and sweep the floor then proceed to raise CHUG up. That way this Sunday I can tear things apart and figure out what I need to buy to fix the Brakes and Leaking Transfercase so I'll have parts in hand come the Sunday after. I promised the wife I would work on the Front porch come 4th of July Weekend so I would like the majority of the problems dealt with by then. My Next Big thing I am thinking of doing is July 1 the local Jeep club has a meeting and I have been thinking about joining Their Meeting is that evening. Then the First Weekend in August is our Big Weekend here in Town art fair car show arts and crafts booths and of course the Davenport Races. SO I want to get some of the last things done before then. The wood slats on the floor the Console installed etc.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OK I also posted this in General as I thought more people should see it. But its here cause its part of the narrative Ok this was totally scary to achieve and I am not looking forward to undoing it. ESPECIALLY if I have to do it again. COST
was stupid even using the crappiest Home Depot 2x4's stuff I wouldn't
use to build a chicken coup. 14) 2x4's 8tft long = $115 which while
stupid expensive for 2x4's in a part of the world where Log trucks have
been running 6 days a week from 3:30Am to 5pm almost bumper to bumper
trying to harvest all the burnt timber in Santiam and North Fork canyons
where we have been cleaning up burnt out homes and shops for FEMA. Oh add $16.00 of 3" screws to the cost. I luckily had the 4X4 and 3/4" particle board I used as a platform for the jack. It is stable passes the rock test which is saying something as uneven as my shop floor is. a close up If
I were to do this again I would have made the crib 16" x 16" rather
then the 12" x 16" it would have had just a little more foot print. Now
to figure out the Brake line leaks and rerouting them. The Transfer
Case Leaks the fuel leak and what ever else I find while I am under
there. I now see the advantage to driving
around a chassis for a little while as the Brake and Gear box leaks
would have shown up then and been much easier to deal with. Edited by Mark W. - 11 June 2021 at 3:46pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Lemield
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2008 Location: Arvada Colorado Status: Offline Points: 501 |
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Chug is looking good Mark...you're a true craftsman.
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Larry
1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered 1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red" 1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon" 2001 Mercedes CLK320 2003 Cadillac Seville |
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Bill2A
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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Man that's a nice looking Jeep!
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Yep this morning I started tearing into the brake line mess. And its clear I need to ditch the Line locks and get ride of a number of adapters. I really want to put the Residual Pressure valves either right into a single adapter that fits the Banjo Fittings on the Master Cylinder or if I have to I will put a 6" section of Steel flexible line between the Banjo adapter and the Valve. I'm replacing the line going to the Rear Axle Rubber hose since I am removing the Residual Pressure valve from that line and moving it to the Master Cylinder. When I pulled the Line Lock Valve out I have some electrical harness to either remove or "cap off". Drives me nuts all the lines to the Wheel Cylinders are perfectly dry. Why couldn't the rest of it LOL. Shipping time will be a little bit of a Pain. I'll get everything ordered tonight. But it looks like stuff will be shipping out monday. SO assembly will have to be during the week or wait until Next Sunday. Then of course I get to Bleed the brakes again.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OK I think I have the simplification of my brake lines figured out. Parts are in transit. Should be pretty straight forward if I can fish the front brake line around the Master Cyl and into the frame rail. Then its just a matter of being able to get everything tightened up enough. Hopefully parts will all be here by Wed. The wife is currently car shopping so thats going to be a big drain on my time until thats done with. Then on to the Transfer Case leaks and OD popping out of direct.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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chasendeer
Member Joined: 24 Feb. 2012 Location: Napa,CA Status: Offline Points: 1086 |
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Why are you removing the line locks?
jay |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Simplest answer as to why the Line locks are coming out is the Thing is leaking like crazy. I also want to simplify the front brake line. And the only way I found to position the Line Lock Cylinder was to place it behind the Clutch and Brake bellcranks and such. So I had a 30" line going from the MC to the Solenoid then a 48" line going forward to the Tee for the front Axle. Really the only reason I put it on CHUG was I had the thing left over from my 66 Chevelle project I sold off.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OK all the new brake line hoses and adapters and such are in hand. Now to figure out the routing and to use as few joints as possible while getting the Residual Pressure valves as close to the Master Cylinder as possible. OH and with NO LEAKS
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Well it only took getting on and off the floor under CHUG 8 times to manage to fish the new front brake line through the frame and past the Master Cylinder mount. BOY do I hope it doesn't leak. from the Master Cylinder The new Brake line Banjo fitting 1/2" inverted flare to -3AN adapter 6" long -3AN Braided Steel Brake line hose female on both ends -3AN to 1/8" NPT adapter (using a special Permatex Hydraulic/Brake thread sealer) Wilwood 10PSI Residual Pressure Valve -3AN to 1/8" NPT adapter (using a special Permatex Hydraulic/Brake thread sealer) 30" -3AN Braided Steel Brake line hose straight female on one end 90° female on the other end. This then goes into the Tee that splits the two frame mounted hard lines. These then go to the frame mounted Std. CJ5 type flex hoses to the Wheel Cylinders. So only a few dozen places to leak! Next after a short break I will work on the rear line which also has the adjustable Proportioning valve in it. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OK the front brake line is all installed and I fear if the fittings are any tighter they might split LOL. I assembled the rear line and started installing it. BUT it appears I screwed up and need a Hose 6" shorter then the shortest hose I have available. 18" hose on order DANG IT. Summit should have it here in a day or two. Its only money!!!
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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CRAP my 18" hose showed up today but it has -4AN female ends not -3AN its -3AN hose which is what I saw when I ordered it but the next size up fittings. SO now I have to spend another $26.00 and wait until Friday to finish the rear brake line. And people wonder why this build took 11.5 years LOL
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OK got up at 4am this morning and out in the shop around 5:30 its going to be 110° today so nothing much in the shop after about Noon. Near as I can tell I have the brake lines all fixed. That is to say the Line locks Solenoid was pulled out. Both residual pressure valves moved to within 6" of the Master Cylinder. About 1/2 dozen adapters and roughly 5' of line removed with the simplification of the system. My son came down and helped me bleed the brakes (where are the bleeders on Wagner Cylinders not exactly 10mm or something else a wrench will fit properly. They are like a 9.5mm or something). Anyway the pedal comes to a stop about 1.5" above the floor with my son pushing hard enough he says he would have been standing up had the seat back not stopped him. I ran a paper towel on all the joints and connections and saw no brake fluid leaks so I might be OK there. Once I get CHUG back on the road I will see if adjusting the brakes will help the pedal height. I figured out how to put a larger heat shield between the electric fuel pump and tail pipe but I need to remove the Fuel Filter mount to be able to drill and tap a hole in it. SO I will wait to put that on until I run the tank nearly dry and decide to service the filter. Got the transfer case pan off. The gear oil looked a little tan and not a totally consistent color. Which I think is due to the White grease assembly grease. I have a super strong magnetic drain plug and it picked up a little bit of shinny metal and some very carbon dust looking magnetic material. Not more then I would imagine a fresh rebuild with used gears might create in the first 45 miles. I'll keep an eye on this. Going to pull the plug out of the tranny as well to get as much of the break in oil out. Not sure if I am going to go to the hassle of making the Pan extension. I'll decide later. Its so hot in the shop unless you laying on the floor you just want to leave. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Well not good news. I went to drain the transmission side of the gear box and the magnetic drain plug I made came out covered with metal. All most all a really fine black texture. I'm in the process of trying to get the OD unit off. I have the 5 bolts and the linkage removed but it doesn't want to pop off. That Permatex Gear Oil gasket sealer is acting like a glue. Unless I am missing something. Glad I am digging into this with 45 miles on it rather then running it any more. Hopefully it hasn't ruined anything except my day.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Yep the gear oil gasket stuff was really hard to break loose. OD is out. Found what appears to be the source of the metal. At least most of the fine gray/black stuff. Its from the side of the OD Oil Scoop rubbing on the outside of the Planetary drum. So I can bend that and stop that. Does not help me with knowing why it pops out of Direct under load.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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OK so I got an email from Herm asking me to call him Tuesday so hopefully he can help figure this out. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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ok call to Herm made and I had a good talk with Adam his assistant. The problems I am having with the OD are typical of the early 30% units. He gave me a suggested shim to correct the problem of the OD popping out of Direct. I'll work on this as soon as time and temp allows it. Hopefully one try will get it.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Adam suggested .050" of shim i can make up a stack. 048-.049 so going with that.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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