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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2022 at 7:00pm
OK I am now CERTIFIABLY INSANE

So I came up with this way of making the rear corners on the top. 3.040" radius 1/8th of a sphere.

I glued up three pieces of Micarta. Threaded the center piece 9/16" - 12T then made a collar to go around a 9/16" bolt that would allow me to tighten the bolt up and the collar to give the lathe something to hold on to. Some Epoxy later and I had this big chunk of Micarta. I put it in the lathe and soon realized turning 1/2 of a Sphere on my little lathe was going to be a huge chore. SO I took the thing out of the lathe and started on it with a 36 grit belt in my 2" x 72" Belt grinder (a knifemakers grinder) after a while I got a basic 1/2 Sphere shape and then put it back in the lathe making a cut about every 1/8" to get it squared up or maybe I should say round.

It came out actually better then I feared and not quite as good as I hoped. I have a few shallow spots I will dress up with filler once I make triple sure the over all dimensions are correct. Think I will use some more of the PC-7 Epoxy I used to seal the frame work under the Tub and to perfect the rear corners of the Tub. Slightly stronger then Body filler.

This will then be cut into 4) quarters I am going to put this in the Milling machine vise and then use a stylus in the chuck to scribe the cut lines. I know exactly where the center of the 1/2 sphere is so using the mill to drag a stylus on the X and Y axis will give me a good line to scribe a nice straight line. I only need two Corners so I will cut outside the line on two of the Quarters to allow me to dress the cut up and to account for the saw blade Kerf.



Here is the 1/2 Sphere


And the Micarta Squares that will end up being the Corner sections. By the time they are finished being machined they will amount to less then half the mass they are now. SOOOOO MUCH DUST.

These have all been through the milling machine making sure all 4 edges are square and they are all within about .005" of each other. I need to do this so I can use their size to register holes that can't accurately be drilled once the piece are final shape.


You can't see them in the photos but yesterday I cut and beveled the ends of 100) 1/4" D x 1.125" aluminum pins that will be used to hold the little Micarta inserts that will go in the ends of the 1" square tubing.

Progress but so much prep work.


Edited by Mark W. - 20 Jan. 2022 at 7:03pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2022 at 5:49pm
WOW some fun today. I went to unscrew the 1/2 sphere off the 9/16" bolt I was using as an arbor in the lathe and I guess a bunch of the epoxy squirted around the bolt. Nothing I could do would unscrew that bolt. Now take in to consideration I couldn't clamp the 1/2 sphere. So I asked my friend next door to come over and help me. I put the bolt head in the vise and with a huge rubber band around the Sphere for traction we both tried and only got it to move a tiny bit. SO Tlyer suggested heating the bolt and a few min. with the propane torch was enough to weaken the epoxy bond. SO I could finally get it apart.

Cleaned up the arbor and screwed it back in then put the Arbor in the Milling machine vise to use the X and Y travel of the table to locate the 4) quadrants of the Sphere. I'm using a 5/64" drill bit as a marker. Once it gets down far enough I just use the drill bit as a pointer and mark the point with a new black Sharpie. I will come back with a rule or masking tape and connect the dots.


The corners are a little oversize. But I would rather have to sand them down to fit once in place the to have to try to putty them up to sit flush.

I know all this is hard to follow you should see the look on the wife's face when I try to explain it to her. But once all these parts are made and I get the tubing cut to length and start assembly it will be clear my madness.

 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2022 at 7:03pm
OK for what its worth I have 4 corner pieces to work with. Each needs a little squaring up but within expectations.


Oh I called the Race Car parts place I been planning on getting the .040" sheet aluminum for covering the top and was pleasantly surprised to find out that while he couldn't give me a price (his computer was being a PITA) he said it was less then the pre painted version he carries which was only $110 a sheet. 4' x 10' shts. I figure I'll need 3 sheets

Rear half of top and 1 door
Front half of top and 1 door
Sides and rear walls and hatch.

There will be some left over but I want to be sure to have extra. Should cut and bend nice.




Edited by Mark W. - 21 Jan. 2022 at 7:13pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 1:03am
Well I got the corners cleaned up and while not perfect they are going to work out very well.

I started drilling the holes in the curved pieces. These are what all those 1.08" X 3.125" x 3.125" blocks are being made into.

All was going well until I got to drilling the first of the holes that will be threaded to allow bolts to hold them to the rest of the frame work.  With my mechanical drawing laying right there on the bench where i am working I measured down 1/2" from the top of the block instead of up 2.5" from the bottom. This of course put the hole to high. Luckily I like to do a small batch first to double check my work and only screwed up 6 of the blocks.

So for the next hour and a half I got to bore the holes out to 3/8" (they were drilled 17/64" to be threaded 5/16" - 18T) and then using my Plug cutter I made up a whole pile of pegs to Epoxy (mixed with milled fiberglass) into the holes so I can redrill those pieces and do it correctly. One of the nice things about Micarta is how you can fix a lot of mistakes. Oh these when I thread them I will also coat the threads with super thin super glue allow it to set then retap. It make the threads stronger. I'll use these pieces on the rear vertical corners as they will not be weight supporting in that position just to be triple safe.

I sure wish I had a way to power tap these. But I will end up having to all 70 some holes by hand. I got a new bottoming tap coming tomorrow to help LOL.




Edited by Mark W. - 23 Jan. 2022 at 1:09am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 6:50am
I could feel my back tensing up as I read you were tapping 70 holes by hand. Do you plan to rivet the top together? I have an air hammer and buck bar I could loan you. We had an Airstream and I bought them to replace a window and do some other repairs that required riveting.  
Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen"
The less the Power the More the Force
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 11:35am
I appreciate the offer of the air hammer and buck bar but. As you will see later the frame work will have a a layer of 1/8" aluminum webbed over the joints on the sides this will be held on with 3/16" Aluminum Pop rivets that are recessed into the aluminum with a counter bore bit. The actual outer skin of the top will be held on with panel adhesive and show no rivets Hopefully giving me a very smooth skin. Still working on the Joint between the two halves of the top and how I will connect it.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 1:30pm
Sounds cool. I know lots of folks that love the body panel adhesives. I'm sure it will work and look great.
Dean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2022 at 1:54pm
My big concern with the panel adhesive is going to be working time. With a piece of .040" thick aluminum approx. 40" x 72" to wrap around the frame work on the top. Thats a lot of glue spreading before things start setting up. I'm still researching. And may end up using another type of epoxy or even a Silicone type adhesive for most of it. Seams like every day I come up with something else to do or a different method. Right now Its all about a zillion threaded holes. I'm pacing myself doing about 10-12 holes at a time then a rest. LOL

When I do the piece that will be pressed into the ends of the 1" square tubing they have a 1" deep hole also threaded 5/16" - 18t those I will have to do with the piece held tight in the vise so that I can over pressure the little pieces and split the Micrata. Its laid up like a Plywood with layers of cloth so like plywood can split if pushed to far. I'll just make sure its in the vise in such a away to hold it together and be cut rather then spread by the tap.

Once I get all these Micarta pieces Drilled, Threaded, and Shaped. Then I need to figure out what Bolts to order. Looks like I will be using Flat heads, Button Heads mostly with some Std. Socket head bolts. Depending on the application.

I was looking through my stuff and found the HD aluminum Piano hinges I'll use for the doors. Something I found at a Garage sale a dozen years ago I will finally put to good use. I should order the Door latches here pretty soon as well since I am sure they will add more PITA to designing the doors.

I am still wondering about a Suicide door safety catch of some sort in addition to the regular RV/Tool box type latch I am planning. Want it quick and easy to open but effective.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2022 at 2:56pm
Well yesterday the Willys stars aligned and I had to work but only for 7.25 hours and got off at 3:30 so I ran down to Albany went to Home Depot got the wood for my daughters pantry shelves I got talked into building and using the plywood and 1 x 3 x 10' pine went across town and picked up three sheets of .040" Aluminum to use to skin the top. 2 are bare and one has a White paint on it. No choice on that as he only had 2 bare sheets.

SO now I get to figure out where in this rabbits warren of a shop to hide 3 huge sheets of aluminum where it won't get beat up while I build the frame work. $310.00 in aluminum

I'm proceeding nicely on all the curved sections of Micarta. I have just 4 more to finish for the whole rear half of the top and will wait until I get the sloped front section framed out to figure out how to cut the ones that will transition from 6" d to the shape of the windshield frame as they get shorter and shorter.

 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2022 at 1:05am
Wow just figured out what more Aluminum tubing I need to finish the frame for the hard top and boy am I glad I bought what I did last year. Prices including the cost of shipping has gone way up. Glad it was only 4) 60" lengths.

I should have more then enough for all the structural elements in the top now. The doors will be a mystery until I get there.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2022 at 5:40pm
Wow getting quite a stack of parts made up. It looks like I will be able to trim to length all but 3-4 of the pieces of tubing that will go from one side to the other with the Milling machine. So that means almost all the structural members will be within .005" of their design length and perfectly square on the ends which will be very important based on the assembly method I am using.

This photo shows the simple jig I made up for repeating length on the Milling machine.

There is a small piece of Micarta scrap clamped to the Black tube to act as a stop. I make sure one end is trimmed square and cleaned up that goes against the stop and then the cutter trims to length. I been labeling everything as I go to help with confusions.

I got another order of 1/8" wall 1x1 tubing today nice being two days from ONLINE METALS Seattle Warehouse. These will be the cross top pieces and the longest in the top project.

The frame work for the front half of the top (door jam forward) will end up being measured once the rear section is assembled to insure I get the correct length with the angle in from the side and the forward slope of the top.

Parts made so far


I'm waiting on a 6" D Acrylic circle template to show up before I start scribing the arc on the curved sections. I am debating on if I will finish the arc on the lathe or just go with the accuracy I would get cleaning up the bandsaw cut on my Belt grinder (NOT LOOKING FORWARD to all that dust) Once that is done I will cut the Bottom angle and then boring out the center hole. The parts will end up looking like this.


The Orange circles are where the center hole will be reamed out and the bevel. There are threaded holes and holes that pass through for the 5/16"-18t Bolts that will hold everything together.  The additional stock removal and machining will greatly reduce each pieces weight.

Hoping to have a good amount of time off still this winter but one thing about getting all these pieces made like this is I will be able to work on the top when ever I have time as most things once all the parts are made will be simple assembly. Until I get to the 1/8" sheet webbing on the sides and then the BIG project the Skinning of each piece with the .040" aluminum.

Painting will take place depending on weather and time. I might even let it go to 4th of July weekend. No reason I can't drive around a bare aluminum top this spring.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2022 at 9:40pm
The pile of parts is getting huge


Spent all day today making .880 x .880 x 1.5" and 1.125" Micarta Blocks that will be shoved into the ends of the Aluminum tubing.

Not looking forward to threading all those holes (the 1.25" ones get cross drilled and won't be threaded) I figured out a great way to hold them in perfect registration while I end drill them. Using a V block set on its end in the Milling machine vise. With the vise shoving the piece into the V.

Getting tired of breathing Micarta Dust. The masks only help so much. Maybe I should use a painter mask.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2022 at 9:45pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

The masks only help so much. Maybe I should use a painter mask.

I think you're ok if you're vaccinated.

Dang. Did I say that out loud? LOL


Edited by Ron D - 28 Jan. 2022 at 9:46pm
1951 M38
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2022 at 10:56pm




Edited by Mark W. - 28 Jan. 2022 at 10:57pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2022 at 10:57pm
Originally posted by Ron D Ron D wrote:

Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

The masks only help so much. Maybe I should use a painter mask.

I think you're ok if you're vaccinated.

Dang. Did I say that out loud? LOL


ROFLMAO
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2022 at 11:47pm
Looking forward to seeing the top come together. 

Glad you where even able to find your aluminum sheets. 
My aluminum gutter material 11-7/8” coil .032 had so many shortages all though 2021 and 14 price increases!! 
I ran somewhere around 10,000’ feet through my machine in 2021. 
I just got an email from my supplier this week saying there still have shipping issues!!!!…. OH and gutter coils are going up 13% a pound February 1st….

So get everything you might need…
1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog
1948 cj2a blue jeep
1953 cj3b yard dog
1955 willys wagon
1955 willys pickup
1956 willys pickup boomer
1960 fc 170
1968 jeepster commando
1990 Grand wagoneer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2022 at 12:15am
mine came from a Race car auto parts store. We have a very healthy dirt track circuit in this part of Oregon. So I guess they can support a parts store all there own. Its in conjunction with a big independent motorcycle/ATV dealership  so its carried along with i guess. Real nice guy to deal with.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2022 at 4:19pm
OK so my method of center drilling the little .880 x .880 x 1.5" inserts with a 17/64" hole 1" deep that will be threaded 5/16"-18t and shoved into the ends of the Tubing with a .065" wall (about 60% of all the joints in the Top structure) I'm using a Brad point drill bit to make a nice flat bottom hole.

By using a V block to locate the Inserts and then locking it in place. I can just open and close the vise to change the Inserts while keeping the registration. If my measurements are accurate I got within .003" of the center of the Inserts which is easily within the accuracy I need. I'll clamp 1/4" steel Plates over each joint as I tighten them up so that will smoush them so they are very flush.

I'm still deciding if I want to use any Epoxy when pushing the Inserts into the Tubing. Also how much deeper then flush I want to shove them. I want the edges of the Tubing to be what makes contact not the end of the insert. I been thinking about using a thin stainless washer to set the depth. I'm going to use my Hydraulic press to push the inserts into place I think. Doing it with a mallet or hammer leaves to many ways to mess up the Press will be a slow PITA but safer.


I'm going to use the same kind of vise setup to align my tap as well. I'll cut one of the Inserts down to about 1" long  open the hole up to 1/4"D then clamp the V block in a bench vise then I can just push the reamed out block down on top of the insert and pass the Tap through it to perfectly align the Tap with the hole.  I normally do my taping through a Block I made with all the different thread major diameters drilled through it. Works great to keep a tap square.

Its funny today after doing this for days it dawned on my how similar this process is to Reloading ammo. LOTS of repetition then change to step more repetition and repeat LOL.


Edited by Mark W. - 29 Jan. 2022 at 4:21pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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