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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2023 at 12:56am
Well I was afreared. We had our annual company meeting where they tell us all about our insurance and safety and any special training we need for jobs up coming.

And It looks like the fun and games of winter are going to be coming to a rapid halt as soon as next week. So now it looks like I'll be lucky to have the hard top ready for paint by Memorial weekend. I was figuring it would take me this weekend to finish the roof section to the point I could flip it over and get the Rain gutters made (this will also involve getting some delicate TIG welding done by my neighbor hood Aluminum welding guy) then insulation and interior panels completed. Then this coming week to shift the shop around so I have enough room to start the sheeting process and getting the sheeting process started. Finishing up the following week and reassembly.

Now it looks like I will be down to 2 days a week soon to be 1 day a week. And the wife is getting real pissed about not having the porch remodel project finished as well as multiple other project she explains she has waited long enough for.

Oh and they honored me with the driver of the year award for 2022!!! A real nice block of Lexan or some such plastic with said honor engraved on it. And my choice of what will end up a personalized Carhart jacket.

I guess after as they pointed out today with 18.69 years with the company I deserved it LOL.

OK thats off my chest. I am down to just shaping the corner blocks from Micrata and getting a pair of blocks that will be right under the corner blocks to final shape. And near as I can tell the exterior and structural framing of the roof section is completed. Boy are there things I would have done differently had I the experience I have now. Very different ways of creating some of the shapes needed in the structure. I am now convinced that this top is easily 50lbs heavier then it could be.

OH well much like the Header which hangs down about 2" lower then it would have been easy to have changed had I known how it was going to turn out. And other things this is what I get for traveling my own path.

here's a couple of photos of the front section.




Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2023 at 9:23pm
Tried some heavy paper patterning this evening The paper has been bent while stored so not the smoothest fit but it gives me an idea.


final shaping on the corner blocks will take place once the .040" Aluminum skin is all bonded down. that way I get the most accurate transition.

Going to looks for something to use as a pattern I can see through that would make it so much easier to accurately cut it.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2023 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

I am now convinced that this top is easily 50lbs heavier then it could be.
I was thinking with that heavy-duty top, who needs a roll-bar?

Congrats on the Driver of the Year Award!
1951 M38
1951 M100
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2023 at 10:28pm
Well hopefully I never have to find out if the top will make due in place of a roll bar.
I been figuring i have enough of the .040" Aluminum to make a couple mistakes but I would sure like to get this sheeting figured out without wasting any metal.

Pretty sure I have the order in which I will do the panels figured out.
1. Rear hatch its the smallest panel and by far the simplest with just the one bend ( where it kicks out at the bottom to over lap the tailgate)
2. The side/rear panels nice and flat with one nice simple corner curve. Easy to afix clamps etc.
3 Rear section of the Roof. 3 curves but all straight with square lines.
4 front section of roof. Compound curves and tapering lines
5 Doors weird curves to try to match. Thin sections around the windows. The need to not cause the bottom of the doors to get a tighter or looser fit to the tub.

I figure doing it this way will help me gain experience. And a side benefit i can better estimate how much epoxy will be needed for the bonding.


Edited by Mark W. - 11 Mar. 2023 at 10:31pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2023 at 2:30pm
Well that was an education.  I just finished JB Welding the .040" sheeting on the rear hatch.

I precut the window opening
I pretested all the clamps and blocks and had them staged.
I then scuffed up both the frame work and the Sheeting with 80 grit paper
I cleaned the two surfaces
I bought a new 10ounce package of JB Weld
I bought some 1 ounce plastic cups to mix the epoxy in.
I staged up a hand full of Popsicle sticks to mix the epoxy
I bought a couple new 1.5" Plastic putty knives to spread the epoxy.

What I learned. It took every bit of the 10ounce package of epoxy to cover the 494 square inches of frame work. I had to mix up 5) batches (5 fluid ounces compared the 10oz by weight of the epoxy) The little plastic cups were to small to mix fast I need a bigger container and to mix more epoxy at one time.

After using almost every clamp in the shop (and I have a LOT of clamps which the photo below will show) I'm guessing 1/2 the epoxy came squirting out the edges. In the future I will run beads of the glue rather then actually spreading it out like thick paint.

From the time I started mixing epoxy until I had every clamp in the place set was between 50 and 55 minutes. Clearing had I chosen 3M Panel adhesive with its 30 min working time I would have been screwed, The fact the an hour and 15 min from the start of mixing epoxy is still oozing out of the joints tells me I made it under the JB Welds working time.

Now I can stress hoping that the .040" Aluminum is thick enough to keep from any buckling or anything else that would show an uneven surface. I"ll know about 7am tomorrow when I pull the clamps which hopefully will not be welded to the surface they clamped LOL.

The heavy aluminum Angle at the top edge just below the hinge line and the 1.5" x 2" piece of 1020 steel at the bend in the sheeting where the hatch kicks out to keep water from getting in between the tail gate and hatch SHOULD be enough to keep any twist from happening in the hatch.

Next time I think I will mix up in a larger container then transfer it to some LARGE 60cc Syringes I have that have large holes and use them like a chalking gun to run beads of the epoxy.

SO here is my morning night mare:


Yes somewhere buried in all that Vise grip and C Clamp is the rear hatch to my hard top.

I'm going to need help with the roof section and possibly the rear walls to get it all done in time.


Edited by Mark W. - 18 Mar. 2023 at 2:33pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2023 at 3:29pm
I just used some SEM brand adhesive that has a 90min work time and 4hr set time, cures in 24 hours..

It was recommended by a body supply man as its cheaper than the 3M.

I'd recommend you 'get er done' closer to 60min but that still more working time than you had.

SEM 39747.....Multi-Purpose Panel Adhesive



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'48 CJ2A Lefty

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2023 at 9:50pm
mark, pardon me but you need more clamps sir LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2023 at 10:27pm
Thanks Roc I will look into the SEM Industrial Finishes in Salem should carry it they carry SEM products there. Reading up on it looks like it could be the ticket.

I'm not sure I could have found anywhere for more clamps!

I just finished pulling all the clamps off and its a good thing I did. I had left the Hinge attached to the Hatch and I ended up having to gently pry it open and then scrape a bunch of JB Weld that had seeped under it off the moving half of the hinge. A little Brake cleaner on a rag took care of the residue.

I found one of the lower corners had a little movement in it so it got reclamped and if it doesn't end up setting down I will carefully drill into the Micarta under the corner and put some Devcon 1 hour epoxy under it.

I was just barely able to cut the excess epoxy with an X acto blade to remove it. Another hour and it would have been to set up.

The great news is it appears the .040" is laying nice and flat on the frame. Now to clean up the window opening and the outer edges. And I'll have a shinny Aluminum rear hatch.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2023 at 5:46pm
I am so worn out LOL 2 hours of chipping JB Weld and Filing the outer edge flush with the 1/8" Aluminum layer on the perimeter of the Rear Hatch as well as digging a BUNCH of JB Weld out of the Hinge and cleaning that all up. This was before lunch. The an Hour and a half Filing the window opening to match the 1/8" Layer as well as getting it sanded down to 120/220 grit. and I am worn out.

I know I had planned on doing most of this work with a Laminate Trimming bit in my Router but the excess JB Weld squirted out filling the area between the over hang of the .040" layer and the edge of the 1/8" layer where the bit would have to ride made that idea moot as the bit never would have ridden smooth. And the fear of what that cutter could do with one tiny bump.

I decided to see what doing it the way I did all my Custom knife work BY HAND and I have to say worn out aside I am quite happy. I might be picking up a new Half Round #1 cut file if ACE happens to have one not that the one I have is worn out but its cut one heck of a lot of metal in its day and a new one has to be faster. I was stymied for a while trying to figure out how to perfectly sand the 6" D corners without any wow where it transitions to flats when id dawned on my to use the same 6"D contact wheel from my Belt Grinder that I originally cut the corners with and just wrap some sticky back 120 grit on the wheel. A bit cumbersome in use but it worked out really well in the end.

When you look at the Photo the surface of the Aluminum looks a little torn up that is the Plastic cover protecting the Aluminum it comes with exactly how it will end up looking will depend on what it looks like when I pull it off just before I prep the surface for Paint. I figure no reason to risk having to do any more work then I have to.

There will be Two High security Drawer/Cabinet type locks mounted just above the crease line (where the bottom flares out to help keep water from entering at the tailgate) And I might put a simple Stainless Steel Hoop type handle in the center. Eventually I will have either a pair of Gas struts or a rod that is hinged at the top that will tip out and fit into a nock to hold the hatch open.

The hatch rides against a 1/2" wide flange on the inside which is where the main weather stripping foam will be. I might also run some along the sides. And the Hinge will have about a 3/8" thick piece of foam sealing it. The hinge itself will be tucked up under the Rear rain gutter so I think it will be pretty safe from water falling down on it. I might if needed ad a simple rubber flap to cover the hinge at a later day if it needs it.

SO the first photo is a detail of one of the bottom corners showing the angled piece of Micrata that flares the bottom of the hatch out. The second photo is an over all shot of the hatch.



Next up are the Two side walls. I will try to do a better job cutting the window openings (I actually want to leave a tiny bit more material then I did on the Hatch) And this will be when I learn about curving the .040" I plan on clamping it to the Vertical edge of the Hatch opening and then basically rolling the whole side wall until the side is laying flat on the Layout table. I'm also going to do something different with regards to the clamping I plan of using pieces of wood 1" x 2" x various lengths with long dry wall screws into the top of my layout table to do the clamping I did some stuff like this while building the tub it worked very well.

OK maybe nap time.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2023 at 11:01pm
Well the next big pucker is coming up. I just checked the cost for the 1/4" scratch resistant Polycarbonate and its just short of $600

The dead bolt grade locks I want to put in are going to run me around $260 for four locks and matching keys WOW but everything else is RV grade and all based on a 1/2 dozen key choices.

OH well my Drivers bonus should be showing up in the next month or two. I can put in the fancy locks then.

I am glad I never kept track of what this thing is costing me. I never would have started I fear.

Still have a fancy GMRS antenna to buy as well as the paint. Which looks to be about $120 paint and activator. I am hoping the Epoxy sealer I have left over from the jeep will be enough to do the top. I'm pretty much going to paint the top inside and out. At least thats the plan right now.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote duffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2023 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Well hopefully I never have to find out if the top will make due in place of a roll bar

All it takes is one idiot on their cell phone.  Unfortunately, there is a very abundant supply of those.  I suppose it depends on one's perceived limits when off-roading, but I have always been of the opinion that the danger of being wheels up is more on-road than off.

Nice work as always.  Have you given any thought to building an airplane?
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2023 at 12:08pm
a flying jeep of course.

its totally you mark:



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2023 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by duffer duffer wrote:


Nice work as always.  Have you given any thought to building an airplane?

In early 1991 I was reading everything I could on home built aircraft I was taking ground school and flight lessons (I have 4 hours in my log book barely a start)I had what I wanted to build all picked out the wife was on board. Then the wife got pregnant and lets just say the budget changed a LOT so instead of the dream of building an airplane and being able to fly. I found and bought my 66 Chevelle and started to build the street racer I had dreamed of as a 21 year old.

Then our daughter was born and 3 days later she wasn't here anymore. That one took a while to get over.

The Chevelle progressed very slowly money being very tight with many thousands of dollars of medical bills to deal with. In 96 I gave up Custom Knifemaking as my occupation and started driving for a living. This greatly changed the budget.

In 2002 My Dad passed. Just before this he sold CHUG to me for $2.00.

in 2004 My Dads second wife decided to cash out on his house she bought from us and double her money so she told me I had to get CHUG out of her shed this is when I started working on CHUG

Some time in I think 2014-15 I made the decision to sell the Chevelle project to help fund CHUG One of the guys at work his dad was a big Chevy muscle car guy and he paid CAsh what I was asking and away it went

In the Spring of 2021 I got CHUG back on the road.

I built maybe 100-120 different control line model airplanes as a kid and as an Adult (I have maybe 2 dozen of them stashed around here in various places)

But the cost of building an Airplane and maintaining a pilots license not to mention fuel and aircraft up keep now days is beyond my assets and plans. 

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2023 at 8:50pm
Bight I have touched a Hafner Roto Buggy in 2003 we took a trip to England and in the Army Flying Museum in Stockbridge They have one of I believe two Roto Buggys left intact. I took a zillion photos and actually touched it just to make sure it was real as I had never heard of it before we saw it.

By the way it was one of the neatest museums I have ever been in and I have visited maybe 25 different Airplane and Military museums including Duxford.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2023 at 8:56pm
WOW I got the Drivers side wall glued up today. Way more work then the Rear hatch. I'm glad I went with the JB Weld an hour and a half after I start mixing its still oozing out of the joints. Which means its still leveling and moving where it needs to be. As long as it doesn't glue itself to the Sheet of fancy Hardboard I put under the side wall to make sure it all stayed flat and smooth. I have a few less clamps on the side wall then I did on the Hatch but the hatch was up in the air while the side wall is clamped down to the layout table. And I have like 24 wood blocks screwed down into the table acting as clamps and I have I would guess close to 100lbs of steel stacked up helping to hold down part of the curved section as I had no way to get a clamp there or screws long enough to use a wood block.


It will be tomorrow at least 2:00pm before I start pulling clamps. I'll be lucky to get it all cleaned up tomorrow I got to get ready for A four Day rabbit hunting trip with my son this weekend.

Oh I should say todays fun required just about a pkg and a half of JB Weld the 10oz size. They do it in ounce weight so that would be 15OZ by weight. by liquid its ends up about 6oz of glue.


Edited by Mark W. - 21 Mar. 2023 at 9:14pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2023 at 9:12pm
Where are you going rabbit hunting?
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2023 at 11:56am
Our base of operations will be ANA Reservoir RV camp grounds. We tend to hunt around that area and up towards Christmas Valley on BLM land.

This year hoping to call a couple Coyotes as well.

Was really really hoping to do this trip in CHUG but the Hard top beat me. Just not enough time. I guess I'm not like all the TV car shows where they manage to just make the unreasonable deadline for some guy willing to paying zillions of dollars for a car they have no idea how to work on.



Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2023 at 11:20pm
Well mistakes were made lessons learned.

On the rear taillight panel area of the Top laying the .040 over such a large piece of 1/8" and then clamping it along its edges FIRST left no where for the excess Epoxy to go but to the center. This causes about a .040-.060" smooth bulge down the middle of the sheeting. I could have avoided this with a  couple dozen 1/4" holes running down the center of the 1/8" Which would have taken 10 min and changed nothing in the finished top. Now I have a panel that is not as flat as it should be. OH well.  A good sized part of this area will have a large vent in it that will hide much of the bump.

Also it appears I could have done a little better job with the transitions from Side wall frame to the Corner Micarta blocks as I have a couple of bumps in this area as well. I can take about half of these bumps out when I prep for paint.

I bought a NEW 1/2 round Bastard Cut file from a DO it Best Hardware store local and it makes cleaning up the Sheeting to match the 1/8" Layer pretty fast. Its taking about an hour of work to get the perimeter of these panels dressed up nice and about the same for the window openings.

Not fun work but As its spread out I can deal with it. When I was Knifemaking for a living I might have sat on a stool for as much as 8 hours doing nothing but hand sanding knife blades flat some times down to 1200 grit. So I have some experience with this type of work.

I have decided to use MUCH less JB Weld when it comes to doing the Roof panel sheeting. Its just not required and seams to cause more problems then its worth. 

SO I am going to do something different. I will do the perimeter with JB Weld as the surface of the Micarta Curve blocks But the frame work in the middle of the roof and most the large center panel I am going to use Gray Make a Gasket. That will attach the sheeting with a little give as well as cushion the joint. The stuff flows much better then JB Weld.

So here is the Sheeted Drivers side wall. Again the plastic protecting layer messes with the optic's of the panel. The blue circles are places with bumps and the Green tape is a place the plastic is missing.


Now 5 days off for Rabbit Hunting. Then as work allows I will get the Passenger Side wall sheeted.

I have finally decided how I will make the Door windows easily and hopefully quickly removable and storeable.

I'm so scared of trying the sheeting on the Doors thats going to be interesting with all the angles and one area of curve in the metal. Thats why they come last.

I think I might still hit my goal of Painting the top come Memorial weekend. I want to Paint as much inside and out as I can.

OK back next week.




Edited by Mark W. - 22 Mar. 2023 at 11:22pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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