A little project update on Chug A Lug

OK to add to the story. The distributor is in place the oil pump is in place. I then actually put the Right fender on (it had just been hanging by 2 bolts thrown on when we thought we might have to bug out due to the forest fires) It was not an easy job. Even had to take the RF off. When I was in the pre paint stages I assembled the front clip and got everything lined up real nice then I drilled some 1/8th alignment holes in each joint so it would go back the same way. These worked very nicely. The caged nuts in the Grill were a PITA as they kept pushing back and angling keeping the bolt from threading properly.

I'm going to have a big problem with the Rock sliders hitting the bottom corner of the fender down by the step. Thats going to be a PITA to fix.

The blue welting I bought off eBay really made for nice joints for the fender.

I got the fender bolts snug then took a little 3X3" square of 1/8" plywood and a small hammer and tapped the bead down into the joint to get it nice an snug. Then finished tightening up the bolts. Worked out real well.

I had made some thick .090" Washers and Plates to back up all the fender bolts again these worked out real nice. Not a stock look but then we know how much I worry about that LOL.

The Left fender might not go on until after the engine start. Depends on if I can find a temp way to mount the Fuel Filter and pressure regulator that will mount to the inner fender. I'm looking at this next week as getting the Exhaust finished. I need to weld the main flange on the ends of the Primary tubes clean that all up make sure the Main flange is still flat. Then I have 3 gaskets to cut. I'm also looking at some sort of temp paint to protect the header while I get the engine running and in tune. Then the header and tail pipe will be going to a shop to be ceramic coated.

I also need to figure out the hood latches I am thinking about making some Stainless steel plates to enlarge the foot print of the latch so that it doesn't dig into the Filler in that area on the fender. its not thick but any little movement could crack this silly paint.

SO I got the main flange within about .002-.003" of flat. Pretty sure the Mr. Gasket Header Gasket material I will be making the gaskets out of will seal that. Especially since the slight dip on the flange is in the middle and the area around all 6 openings are at the same level.

I want to do a double check on the welds before I move forward. I'm thinking a few drops of WD-40 around the joints to see if anything migrates through should prove any where I need to touch up.

I ordered another jug of Lucas Break in oil. I am thinking I want to pull the break in oil as soon as I have the 20 min at 2000-2200 rpm on the cam. Then replace the oil and filter and run out the first say 8 hours of run time on the second jug that should get me plenty of break in time (it will be close to 500 miles or equal to with the first jug of oil). Then I'll switch to the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic oil 10w-30 and change out at 2000 miles. I am thinking with the filter setup I have I'll most likely run 3500-4000 miles on an oil change. I plan on driving a lot this summer.

OK finally 4 sets of gaskets for my Header and intake manifold (still need to make some Carb to Manifold gaskets.

and the whole wad

Interestingly enough while the main gasket took the longest as each one is tuned to fit the ports exactly which required a lot of file work. The round gaskets that go between the Secondaries and the Tail pipe were the biggest PITA as the 6 bolts are not perfectly on 60° as they should be. I might be remaking these once I see how they perform the inner diameter is larger then the pipe plenty of gasket coverage just not a smooth joint. I should have used my 2.125" Forstner bit instead of my 2.25" hole saw to cut the ID. I forgot the 2.25" pipe is 2.125" ID.

Dang it I wonder how much I have spent on this thing cause I can't find parts. today its the silly choke actuating spring and keeper thing. SOME HOW it just disappeared off the Carb. SO thats another $21.00 into the BLACK HOLE.

In truth I only ordered another one so I would be able to go out in the shop and see it laying somewhere I had looked 20 times before.

OK fancy stupid expensive PCV line finished. BUT I don't know if I like how it came out. So it might change. OK it changed and got a little cheaper except I already spent the money on all the fittings LOL.

OK the fancy fittings I ended up not liking the look of 1st try.

2Nd try didn't like it any better

And after I decided to make my own 1/8" NPT male to 1/4" NPT Female 90° adapter and to deepen the threads to get ride of something I really don't like exposed threads. It tightened up real nice.

The longer hose makes it easier to connect and disconnect as well.

The final version. I need to touch up the Red paint on the PCV it got pretty beat up with all the assembly disassembly.

Get out the hose and wash it off.

I am hoping to car show CHUG for the first summer which will be this Summer if things go well. After I get that out of my system it will be out in the Woods and desert to get dirty.

I have a bunch of people who I want to show what I can do. And the Local car shows and cruise in's are the way to do it.

I've never owned a car newer then 10 years old CHUG is the closest. I just want one nice one before its done.

Since you have addressed so many things on Chug how about a adjustable PCV valve.  It would allow you to control the crankcase pressure, impact idle and perhaps tune the vacuum consistency to the distributor.

This is an interesting read on the topic.

SO I been dealing with a big PITA when I made the tube rock sliders and their mounts I did it while the tub was off the chassis. This of course led to them not fitting exactly the way I wanted. So as the new owned of a 20 ton HF press I figured I would just bend the rear support arm to lower the tube to the 1/2" from the bottom edge of the body that I wanted and what the front of the tube was. THAT DID NOT WORK, so I had to on one of them cut the mounting arm and lower the outer section 1/2" then weld some nice angled sections of tubing to clean it up and make it strong.

I also had to deal with the tubes being about 1.25" to long as they hit the outer bottom corner of the Fender. This was fun cutting the tubes at an angle with them two arms in the way.

Anyway thats all done and while I sit here Pissed off at the Oregon State Police Firearms firearms background people (I bought a rifle on Dec 23rd and they delayed me. Its no 41 days later and still no approval And this is with my Concealed Handgun License in hand and NOTHING ON MY BACKGROUND TO CAUSE THIS) I needed something to keep my mind busy. So I went back to routing the Vacuum line to my distributor. And it turned out I needed a little dodad so that took a while

Hose routing Dodad all one piece of aluminum carved out of a block not rolled sheet.

The coupling nuts are required on the two end manifold studs as they are 1/2" Hex rather then a 9/16" hex which will hit the Primary tubes. And the Allen head bolts jamed into them just make them finished off. And in the case of the front one does double duty holding my Vacuum line dodad in place.