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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2021 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

OK so I had to chase the threads on the speedo cable attachment point on the transfer case a 7/8"-18T Die and can now attach the new speedo cable I got from Richard Darr.

As you’ve found out, Mark, the thread on the speedo cable adapter and the cable nut is a pretty fine thread, and in a difficult position. It’s very easy to cross-thread that nut, and too many people just cram it on down with a wrench or pliers. Even though the nut is soft metal, cross-threading it can damage the adapter threads, and when both are damaged it’s very difficult to ever get it started straight. When the threads are in good shape and clean, the nut will screw all the way down by finger, no pliers or wrench needed. Your cable, I believe, is for an M38A1, and does have a hex nut on the bottom. It’s made to be tight enough to be watertight. Others don’t need to be that tight. And it’s for sure that if the nut is cross-threaded, it won’t be watertight.  
  I’m not saying you cross-threaded it, at least not recently, but you or your Dad may have in the past, or someone else before. I just wanted to post this for the info to others who may read it now or later. Probably more than not, I’ve found speedo cable nuts cross-threaded, not just on jeeps, but on many other vehicles as well. It’s just one of those things that I’d like to prevent if I can. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2021 at 11:58pm
I'm INNOCENT INNOCENT I say!!! Actually Bruce this adapter came with the new transfer case from the guy who built it for me. The Transfer case Dad and I had is long gone rebuilt and off to some other Willys guy.

Richard just missed that the threads were messed up and it did not look cross threaded it looked like the edges of the first 2 threads were smushed over like someone tried to tap the cable nut on to it to help get it started.

No problem now the new cable is all lubed up and installed. The hardest part was getting the Grommet in the firewall well next to the contortion act I had to go through to get it on the back of the Speedo.

OH and the warning is a good one. laying on your back trying to get a stiff cable to line up right can be a very hard thing to do indeed.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2021 at 12:07am
Well crap I was going to be all busy like and see how much of the stuff I have yet to do done since I won't be able to spend quality time with Chug after to day until Sunday. And I got the Primary section of the Header on and snugged up. I got the intake manifold snugged up. And then I got to making sure the Weber DGV had the jets and such in it I plan to start out with and after going insane for about an hour searching again to find the forum post that one of the guy listed the results of tuning their carb with a AEM windband air/fuel Gauge and O2 sensor. I finally gave up and started tearing my office and all the paper work in my two Binder Manuals apart looking for the list of suggested jets. When I finally found it only to discover when I ordered Jets for the Carb I some how ordered the wrong Jets for the Mains. SO it will be at least Sat if not Mon. before I can close up the carb and get the rest of the tangle of cables and such connected to the carb connected.

I painted the Header sections with VHT Black exhaust paint and its a almost light absorbing Flat Black might have to decide if I like that as the guy who will be doing the Ceramic coating offers a very similar finish.

OH when I listed all the stuff I need to finish I forgot to mention putting on the front bumper! I have it off to reduce the radius when walking around the jeep. Bout time I put it on.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2021 at 12:55am
I don't know how significant it would be, but black things absorb and give off heat better than light colored things.  That's why brass radiators are always painted black.  So on that theory light colored shiny headers might take more of the heat out of the engine bay than flat black headers.  And again, I don't know how significant that would be, whether it would make any difference.
Bob

Flatfender wannabe
'71 Ford Bronco
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2021 at 1:13am
Had not thought of that though I know what you say is true,

The outfit thats going to do the coatings offers  Cermachrome, Cast Iron, Black Satin, Satin Silver, Titanium, Raw Steel and White.

I had been thinking about Titanium but will decide once I get to the shop and see samples.
The Black just looks nice compared to bare exhaust pipe.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2021 at 6:34pm
That took way longer then it should have.

OK so the Joint between the Primary section of my Header and the lower section (you know the one thats going to get all beat up cause it hangs to low) is a flange about 2" wide by 6.5" long made from 3/8" thick plate. Around each of the 4) tubes are 4) 1/4" x 3/4" Stainless socket head bolts. The bottom plate is threaded. These were made and threaded at the same time the holes lined up perfectly before and after welding the tubes in place.

It only took 2 full hours to get those 10) bolts in place and tight. Once the Oil pump heat shield and the Master cylinder heat shield and the Steering shaft and carrier bearing were all in place maneuvering room completely disappeared. I had to swap the Bolt head and lock nut for the Steering carrier bearing mount end for end ad there wasn't clearance for the header flange to pass on its way to meet up with the top half of the joint.

Then as I fought to get the Bolts tight the only way I could see to tighten the inside center bolt was to cut the handle off my 3/6" long Tee Handle Allen Wrench (couldn't turn it as it hit the Header tubes) and use a 3/6" 1/4" drive socket on top of it with a 1/4" ratchet. So now I get to buy one of those and I already ordered another one but with a Ball head to improve the angle I can get into the bolts on the inside. I'm going to dig around in my Taiwan junk took box and scare up a 1/4" drive 3/6" socket to weld on to the top of the new ball head shaft. I will also make a shorter version (this one has to be like 7-8" long to work) to be able to get to the inside rear bolt.

What really sucks is I am sure that to mess with these bolts again the Left fender will have to be off. I am making up the special tool because I know there is no other way to deal with those bolts so since I want any tool that I might need when out adventuring. These two long 3/16" hex drive bits will have to be in the tool bag.

Hopefully when I have to R&R the header for the Ceramic coating I'll know what to use and how to contort myself to do it 2 hours for 10) brand new bolts in brand new holes is just to long.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar. 2021 at 8:33pm
I have also figured out exactly how to gain more ground clearance for the header. BUT man will that be a PITA. I need to shorten the upper half of the primary tubes by about 1" the lower section just below the Joint by about 1/2" then make a set of new flanges and weld the tubes into them. Then I have to cut the secondary's and put a jog in them to make up for the shorter Primary tubes. And while I am at it I would need to rotate the secondaries slightly to more closely hug the Trans crossmember. Which would mean I have to also cut and rotate the Tail pipe just beyond the Joint to match.

About 3-4 days work I would figure and it would have to be done before the Ceramic coating is completed. So I wouldn't have time to do that until maybe NOV. and I am sure I don't want to run the header all summer and most the fall before getting it coated.

Well maybe who knows the way I do things.

OH current estimated first engine start is now MID April due to my unfortunate return to work.


Edited by Mark W. - 07 Mar. 2021 at 8:34pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 2:35am
Good grief out of some morbid curiosity I kept track of how many times I got on the floor rolled under CHUG screwed around with something then got off the floor had to walk to the tool room or the work bench or just pickup a tool 3ft out of my reach and then repeated the process.

19 TIMES

It wouldn't be so bad if it haddn't hurt the first time!

SO The Header is assembled

The 2° Castor Wedge is in place on the right side. I need to loosen the nuts a little and straighten it out a little it got a little angle to it during the 5 hour process of trying to get it in place (though this does include two trips to the Hardware and NAPA because the center pin in the spring pak was not tall enough to locate both the wedge and the spring perch. So I had to buy a couple of G10.9 8mm x 70mm bolts and nuts and a couple of steel bushings I reworked on the lathe to slip under the heads of the bolts so the head was effectively almost 1/2" tall. Then back down to NAPA cause I decided to put some Wheel Bearing grease in between my fancy Shock mount U Bolt plate and the Springs cause I know if I don't they will end up squeaking. And for some reason I had no plain wheel bearing grease.

Then it was a nightmare trying to get the 5/8" deep socket to fit into the Hole and around the Nuts on the U Bolts I finally gave up and after the third or fourth try ground enough off it to get it around the last bolt. (Possibly a design flaw on my part)

So now if I have any energy left when I get home from work one day this week I can go out and finish up the right side and start on the left. I will torque the U Bolt bolts down once both sides are assembled and all lined up.

That should only be another 16 or 17 times on and off the floor.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar. 2021 at 4:56am
So the main jets for my Weber came in and after a short day of only 9 hrs and 300 miles in the dump truck. I took a few minutes to install them and button up the top of the carb. Today was 12 hours so home dinner a Whiskey and coke and some NCIS then bed to start it all over again.

I'm trying to scare up some new U Bolt nuts I don't like reusing them so installing the pinion wedges is on stall for a bit.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar. 2021 at 10:21pm
Well that was a BUNCH of work. But worth it. I just finished installing the 2° Pinion shims in the front suspension. I used the Aluminum Shims Summit racing sells for $20.00 I cut them down in length to match the length of the spring perches on the D-25 and in width to match the width of the springs.

Oh I found the other U Bolt Nuts I had so that search got called off.

In my case with the fancy way over complicated Spring Plates I made it was a PITA along the way I discovered that using Lock Washers on these nuts was not a great idea as loosing them caused a huge burr to develop which meant the washers would have to be replaced and the nuts either dressed up flat again or also replaced (I replaced) so I took the original HD Flat washers that came with the U Bolts and Nuts and turned the outer diameter down so they would fit up into the recessed holes the nuts fit into. I actually had a couple of the Grade 8 lock washers open up when I tried to loosen them. Certainly not something to deal with out on a trail should you have to fiddle with the spring plates for some reason.

The Pinion Wedges did what I wanted they added at least 1° of Caster and made much more clearance for my Tie Rod adjusting nuts and the springs.

Glad I ended up with an unexpected day off work today to get that chore done.

I also have a tool recommendation. For years and years (before I started working on CHUG I have had a pair of cheep small floor jacks. They have always done the job kind of but in many cases I had to block them up to get them to lift high enough.

SO a couple weeks ago I noticed Harbor Freight had one of their floor jacks on sale the low profile three stroke version. $95.00 do I picked out a Red one and dragged it home. I used it a bunch on this Pinion Wedge job and I really like it. For the cost I think it was a very good deal. Now this recommendation is for a shop like mine where your working on one project and maybe being forced to work on the wife's car now and then. As to its suitability for a real mechanics shop I'm not going that far.

Getting closer and closer.


Edited by Mark W. - 11 Mar. 2021 at 10:22pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar. 2021 at 1:21am
I'm such a sucker for a discount. On Line Metals sent me a discount code for 20% off on almost everything. And I figured I would buy a bunch more of the aluminum I'll need for my Hard top. Its not all of it but the majority of the framing. The sheeting I am hoping to source locally to avoid what would be astronomical shipping costs.

I also finished up my special Header bolt tightening bit. Its about a 6" long section of a Bondhus 3/16" Ball end driver welded into a cheap 3/16" 1/4" drive socket. With all the PITA I went through to get those 10 bolts tight. This tool will reach each one and all I need to do is put a little sticky something on the tip to place the bolts in the holes. Total cost is less then $7.00 wish I had had it before I started. It will go in my on board tool bag.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar. 2021 at 10:51pm
Well I tried my best idea for trying to move the windshield about 3/32" to the left and it resulted in failure so I guess I live with it. The latches are a little offset and hard to latch (really not a big deal as I don't plan on lowering it I'll be running a Hard top all the time)

I was just hoping to have both sides of the top exactly the same but this won't be the first time I have had to build to fit. Our kitchen cabinets were built in place one board at a time cause the walls aren't square to each other and the floor isn't square to the walls. The Formica counter top started out as a huge cardboard template. As it was so many angles I couldn't measure it out.

Its not off much about 1/8" to the left and I think the left side is about 1/8" forward of the right. And I now don't think its the frame as much as it is the cowl.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2021 at 3:56pm
Given that our Jeeps were never intended to be built with a high degree of precision in the first place and most have probably been, at some point, in a spot that has twisted or bent them in some way over the many years, it's amazing that anything fits.

That said, I would only be bothered by 3/32 if I noticed it.
Then it would bug me until I either found a cure or learned to ignore it. LOL
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2021 at 4:50pm
As to the not built with precision idea I agree as to the idea that some how the tub got bent. The area between the Windshield mount and the top edge of the rear of the cowl/dash joint had no apparent damage when I did the body work. I also don't remember the windshield being off set prior to me tipping it on its left side the summer after high school. The only part of the Jeep that touched ground was the Windshield frame and the rear top bow pocket well the Mirror did but that just folded up against the tub.

I'm pretty sure 90% of this problem is with the Frame. And now that its painted and assembled its not something I am going to be able to fix.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2021 at 11:42pm
Mirrors mounted


in every way I can measure and eyeball them they are square and even. But with the heads pointed slightly different they look wonkie to me.

The Left is a normal flat 5" mirror the right is a 5" conical As I drive dump truck and have to use my conical mirrors for all sorts of maneuvers it just seamed natural for me to have the right side be a conical so I get a much larger view.

I at one time searched high and low for heated versions of the mirrors but while I could find a 6" Heated Conical as used on Big trucks no where could I find a Heated 6" flat mirror so I gave up. I had thought about using an idea someone came up with to heat their Toyota pickup mirrors using Snowmobile hand grip heaters. But the Idea of having to pry open the housings to get the little heating grid on the back of the glass seamed like to much work.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2021 at 1:15am
So today the NOS VC-110 Vacuum advance cans showed up. And they are like the one I already have with virtually no movement allowed by the travel stop. All of them the diaphragm works as it should.

So I bought two more of them and now that I have the one on my OEM Distributor and 5 spares I am going to tear one of them a part and figure out how to make the travel work and how to make it adjustable. It will be fiddly I'll grind back the stop tab to allow much more movement then attach a small block or L bracket to the arm that has a Set screw in it to act as the new travel stop. It will be a PITA to adjust having to tear it all a part to get at it but hey when you do silly custom stuff you do what you have to do.

I want to be able to run the timing spec's given for the 1961 FC-150 that this IAT-4405 distributor is the OEM. I'll adjust from there for power and mileage.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncamoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2021 at 2:02am
I'm not a badge carrying member of the Jeep police but after 50 years of having them as my friends, I notice things and some changes are to the best.
It's your Jeep so enjoy it.
john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2021 at 2:51am
Mark's modifications are well documented in the last 112 pages and are pre-approved by the Jeep Police.
The only part he missed was the 27 black and white 8x10 glossies with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one.
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