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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2022 at 4:22pm
Well I now know one thing for certain. The electrical system in CHUG has no phantom draw or leak.

Last time I started the engine was almost 8 weeks ago. And it turned over just fine and started up after allowing the electric fuel pump time to refill the bowl.

Pretty happy about that.

On another note even though I was off work for almost 3 weeks I haddn't gotten any work done on CHUG I used the time to clean up my office and get my LP collection organized as well some cleaning up in the shop.

My son came down for Thanksgiving through this weekend to do some reloading (he has bought a couple new firearms before Oregons new laws can go in effect) So I took the opertunity to have him help me reassemble the Hard top onto CHUG so I can get started on the rest of the roof and finish up the doors.

Hopefully in the next week or two I can have some new photos to show you. Work will be going slow as I seam to be back to work at least for a while.

I've cashed out this years Vacation and Paid time off and should have that money next week which will allow me to buy all the Lexan for the windows. That looks to be almost $600!!!!! OH well I want the security and weight reduction. Maybe having great big windows was not as great of an idea as I thought.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2022 at 5:46pm
SO I been working on the front section of the hard top for a few days now and WOW what a pain in the butt. First on the list of pains is the fact that everything has to be done up on CHUG up in the air so to speak. Next up is the multitudes of angles. The angle the door cuts in front the side to meet the windshield. The angle the top slopes down to meet the top of the windshield. The angle that is the top edge of the windshield frame. And then the pain that is trying to figure out how to handle the top edge being a cone. All the while trying to keep in mind things like mating surfaces and room for weather stripping. Then how to blend the top over and in front of the top of the windshield all the while somehow locking the windshield in place so it can't move back and forth when wind hits it.

SO lots of short work periods with many breaks to THINK.

The very front corners where the front upper door corner, the windshield and the top with rain gutter all have to come together is turning into a Rubric's cube of its own. Pretty sure there is going to end up being PC-7 Epoxy putty used in places.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec. 2022 at 12:14am
Took a nap after dinner and woke up with the answer to one of my problems. How to join one piece of 1/4" x 1" bar to another while making a compound angle. I'll post a photo of it when I get there.

I now have the leading edge of the top all fleshed out a little fine tuning and I should be able to start putting the roof ribs in between the back of the top and the front edge. Then I can try to figure out the details.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec. 2022 at 11:21pm
ok I have the drivers side all figured out save part of the very corner. Now I just need to disassemble it and duplicate them for the passenger side.. So pretty soon I can start rounding all the little Micarta blocks to make the curves.

I have also made a decision to change my CB radio to a President HR-2510 that has been converted to the CB channels. It also has SSB. And 35 watts of transmit power. Raising the front of the top allows me to hang this larger radio below the GMRS radio that I have planned for the overhead console. I'm thinking of adding a small amp to the stereo. This can fit in the space occupied by the Cobra 29 CB in the console now. I'm also moving the CB antenna to the center of the rear of the top. And going to change to a collapsible AM/FM antenna and up to the top rear edge of the top. Having a 7ft door opening to my shop / jeep parking area sucks.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2022 at 7:21pm
Well this is messed up. Turns out the Windshield frame on the Passenger side is laid back approx. 1/4" more at the top right corner then the top left corner. So in order to have the front of the top square I need to figure out how to bend a painted window frame. I tried opening up the pivot mount holes to help but that only got me some of what I need. I currently have a ratchet strap running from the corner of the frame to a door opening between the shop proper and the carport/garage I have cranked it past the position it needs to be in in hopes that it will some how move into position.

I really do not want to try to use the Top itself to force the windshield frame into plum. As that would put a lot of force on the right side Top to Tub clamps. And I sure do not want to build the top off set to accommodate the differences between left and right corners.

And what sucks even more is I built the upper door frames before this was known. And I can't get the Passenger side door on due to how narrow the stall the jeep is in and the Suicide door having to be almost 90° to the jeep to put the hinge screws in.

Always something.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec. 2022 at 7:48pm
  Always something. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec. 2022 at 6:53pm
OK I went ahead and did the only thing I could think of that wouldn't involve removing the windshield or screwing up paint (much). I lowered the pivot point of the right side about 3/16" that gets the top of the windshield within the "give" amount (The movement allowed with out any real force) of where it needs to be. So using a frame element on the top to push it that far will have almost no effect on the positioning of the top. I really didn't like doing this as I consider it a Bubba type solution but short of manufacturing some sort of hydraulic press brake to bend the mounting arm while in position on the jeep I am at a loss for how else to do it.

I can now get back to finishing the frame work for the front section and then hopefully get the doors done.

I'm currently dealing with the replacement of the Fuel pump in my pickup (under the bed) and some really fun problems with that. And a massive Tooth Ache that I finally get to see a dentist about tomorrow morning.

This winter so far has been terrible for progress.


Edited by Mark W. - 19 Dec. 2022 at 6:54pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2022 at 9:01pm
Well after much trial and ERROR I have come to the conclusion that hanging a huge President HR2510 radio under a little Midway MXT-400 GMRS radio in the overhead console of my hard top is not an idea thats going to flo very well. SO unless I have some sort of brain explosion that isn't going to happen. I explored the idea of mounting the big radio to the side of the GMRS radio. That  interferes with being able to mount a Sun Visor on the drives side and there is not enough room on the passenger side between the overhead console and the wiper motor. SO if I want a more powerful CB (it puts out about 25watts on AM and near 40watts on SSB) I guess I figure out something else. Maybe a low power Linear to work with my Cobra 29.

We had a nice two day ICE storm right before Christmas so I just been getting a little bit done on the top here and there.

BUT after visiting with my son over Christmas I have some new inspiration to get in gear on it. We are planning a big Rabbit and Coyote hunt in Mid to late March. So the top will have to be at least ready for paint by then. I am hoping to do the painting over Memorial Weekend





Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2023 at 7:25pm
Wow the frustrations of custom design and building.

So I have been working on the stuff that will go in the overhead console in the hard top IE

10) 3/4"D LED lights 6 White and 4 Red (to save our night vision when doing stuff with our telescope)

 5) lighted rocker switches (Rear White Dome, Front White Dome, Rear Red Dome, Front Red Dome, and the cooling fan for my GMRS radio)

The Midland MXT-400 GMRS radio (40 watts)

12V power port

dual 1.2 and 2.1 USB charging port (I would have put in a hotter one but this was left over from my console build.

A Digital Clock unit that will also give me interior and exterior temps as well as another Voltmeter

And last but not least a 6.5" x 6" storage compartment I think I will use to carry pens pencils and a couple note books I use to keep track of some of my collectables.

Working on it upside down has screwed my up 3 or 4 times. Trying to make sure how to wire everything up and where to route the wiring so it can be serviced if need be. Making sure the cooling fan is blowing the correct direction (this went very well until I noticed since I was working upside down the way I had the tiny fan mounted I would not be able to get at the mounting screws. SO back to the misc Stainless steel screw can looking hoping praying I had another 4) 6-32 screws as the ones I used to mount it the wrong way were now to short.

And last but not least the little drawer lock style latch (no key just a wingnut looking handle) for the tip down storage tray. That out of the blue a couple weeks ago my mom gives me something left over from her days living in an RV. Only thing was it was PERFECT for what I needed. SO of course it cam without the Jam nut to hold it in place. A trip to ACE hoping I could find one in the 1/4 Million drawers of nuts and bolts they have...OH NO only way to get one was to buy another Drawer lock $9.49 for a frecking NUT!!

I've said it before but you have to be nuts to try to build this stuff.

I have figured out a real nice way to lock the windshield to the hard top using the two tabs that would normally hold the top rods above the doors on a rag top. I am going to make a couple of turnbuckle like things that will pull the windshield back against the Micarta Stop blocks I have on the ceiling joist of the hard top (I know whats he talking about. There will be photos later showing all this.

OK break over back to the Shop


Oh and on another note while the son was down using my reloading gear I had him help me see if my long rifle box would even fit in the back of the jeep. Firs try was through the rear hatch NOPE about 3" to long (Only place it can sit is across from the top of one wheel house to the other right behind the Roll Bar.) So second try was in through the passenger door opening. OK almost then my son says Hey if we take the passenger side Fire Extinguisher off its QR mount it should fit. YEA it does. So I can safely haul my Savage model 12 VLP DBM varimit rifle, my Remington 870 20" 8rd 12ga shotgun and one of my .22 rifles for going Rabbit and Coyote hunting in March As they will all fit into the bog box.

Now where all the camping stuff is going to fit I have no idea. Once that 8" x 10" x 52" rifle box was sitting in there it sure looke to take up a LOT of room. LOL



Edited by Mark W. - 03 Jan. 2023 at 7:33pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2023 at 7:58pm
You're probably gonna really be surprised how much distracting light all those lighted switches and assorted warning lights are gonna put out......talk about ruining your night vision.

Last jeep I ever used any of those in, I started ' de-illuminizing' after about the second night.

Just saying.....

Your mileage may vary. Lamp



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'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2023 at 8:24pm
The warning lights I have between the Tach and the Vacuum gauge are Brights, Fog, air compressor, backup lights, and are very small LED's that don't seam to be at all distracting while driving at night. I can also turn down the lighting on my gauges As I am using a mid 60's GM type headlight switch with a rheostat. 

As to the lighted rocker switches they are above and behind my head when driving so not a problem. And when we are using the telescope and wanting to retain our night vision the vehicle is not running.

I do have 2500 miles on CHUG with a bunch while dark.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2023 at 9:24pm
Forgive the intrusion.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan. 2023 at 9:00am
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

You're probably gonna really be surprised how much distracting light all those lighted switches and assorted warning lights are gonna put out......talk about ruining your night vision.

Last jeep I ever used any of those in, I started ' de-illuminizing' after about the second night.

Just saying.....

Your mileage may vary. Lamp




I think you have a good point. Any extra light inside takes away from one’s ability to see outside. I hate driving my wife’s car at night. Large bright screens that have to be dimmed down to near useless before they quit interfering with my night vision. It throws a pretty good circle of light with the headlights but, if the headlights are legally adjusted, anything that appears in that circle at highway speeds is already hit.  

Putting a dimmer in was a smart move. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan. 2023 at 2:47am
Time for a flash back this is the day I dragged CHUG out of Dads shop in 2004 when his second wife gave me an eviction notice. And how it looked when I got it back on the road 16+ years later.




Edited by Mark W. - 05 Jan. 2023 at 2:49am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2023 at 7:06pm
Some photos of what I been doing. I know working on the fancy part of the overhead console before the front section of the top is fleshed out seams out of order. The thing of it is that its SOOOOO much easier to work on something like this before your having to hang like a monkey upside down in that tiny vehicle. I will never forget the huge PITA it was to put the new headliner in the wifes 67 Mustang coupe. And  that was with all the seats out of it. And I was a dozen years younger then.

Anyway. All the dome lights, Switches and dodads are in place. I have about 1" maybe 2" of extra length on the exterior Temp probe (I want to mount it under the CB antenna mount that will be in the center of the rear edge of the top where it should be both protected and not likely to be effected by wind).
If I remove the inside of the little compartment I can access most of the lighting wiring I have to figure out a couple of junction boxes one either side of the top to connect all the rear lighting to the switches.

I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. Once I have this bolted in place I can get the other ceiling ribs in place and start finishing off the area above the doors.



Above the Midland MXT-400 40 watt GMRS radio is a small clock like unit that will display Time, inside temp, outside temp, and volts. To one side of it is a 12V power port the other side a 1.2/2.1 dual USB charger.

The tiny computer fan I have setup to move air past the big cooling fins on the radio is near dead silent.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan. 2023 at 6:31pm
Frustration................ I am working on the wiring going from the Tub to the Hard top. This involves 4) conductors a 12ga common ground. A 14ga common power to be used for the Clock, Dome lights and charging ports. And a set of conductors for the Midland GMRS radio.

The first big problem is that these wires have to come down the Drivers side door pillar and are kind of in the way of where I am going to put a pair of aluminum channels to store the Drivers door window when its not in use. I've elected to either have the window in place or remove it depending on my mood. And I have decided to have an Aluminum channel above and below the rear side windows to side the door window in for storage.

SO I got super lucky and in my huge pile of misc. Aluminum is some hat channel shaped strip that came off of a easel the wife brought home from work years ago. (the same easel that had a piece of 3/4" x 1" rectangular tubing that perfectly solved a big problem I had in spacing above the rear hatch) I then super glued the 4 wires inside this channel (its barely 1/4" tall) and used 4) 10-32 screws with their heads over lapping the flanges of the hat channel to hold it to the Door Jam. Worked perfectly.

I also made a little 4 conductor junction block from Micrata and some brass screws to mount to the Hard top to Tub Clamp that fits right at the bottom of the Hat channel and on the Door Jam. I even made a nice Micarta cover to hide the screws ans connectors.

And then the fun parts comes I have to put connectors on the short pieces of wire coming out of the hat channel the exact length to fit where the little brass screws are so the wires will run nice and straight. Of course I have to pull the drivers seat out to drill holes. And the 12ga common ground wire connection and the 14ga common power wires go well enough. When I get to the Ground wire for the Radio some how I get the short 1/4" long brass screw cross threaded and end up stripping the hole out. So now I have to figure out how to fix this in place or remake the whole junction block to exactly match the original as the position of all the screws will have to be in the same place or the other wires won't fit.

so far the options I have come up with are two either coat the hole with super glue and retap to 10-32 or if I can get the little connectors over a 12-24 screw then just hog the hole out and retap it for 12-24 and get another brass screw. I really really don't want to remake the little Junction block.



Time for a break.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2023 at 4:46pm
Problem solved I had some Brass rod just the right diameter to center drill and thread 10-32 which caused the threads to show a ridge on the outside of the resulting tube. So it basically made a miniature helicoil After some dressing up and drilling the damaged threads out to a #7 hole. I epoxies the threaded insert in place and we are back on track.

I am finding out the my fancy Clock in/out thermometer/volt gauge thingy is going to be a PITA to adjust as its come with NO INSTRUCTIONS nor can I find any written down on line. And it appears it only displays in Celsius which is a bit of a pain. I'll just print out a little conversion chart and stick it somewhere. Until I get the hang of it. I already know 0° is cold and 35° is HOT so the rest should be easy LOL. Now setting the time that might be fun.

I have the whole overhead console wired up (I have two dome light to switch wires to install once I put the thing in place permanently.

I'm going to have to dig into the center console as I need to upgrade the Radio power supply cables I had not planned on the radio drawing up to 10 watts (it runs 15 watt fuses) so the wire needs to be up graded from the less then 16ga stuff I had pre run.

Back to work 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2023 at 4:55pm
I follow your build with interest. Thanks for sharing it.
Sometimes I wonder how they built the Space Shuttles.
1951 M38
1951 M100
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