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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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cpt logger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 9:08am
Just to be clear, I am going to ASSuME that you meant that you are very happy with Richard's work. You are recommending the workmanship of Washougal Classic Jeep in Washougal, WA. Right?

So, you could NOT be happier with their work. The way you said it leaves some shadow of a doubt. I know, I know, I am being picky here, but this drives me nuts! Again, just to be clear, they are good folks! Yes?

It is a wonderful feeling when the pretty, shiny, clean parts come back from the machine shop. I look forward to more updates as they happen. 

Thanks, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

 
Mike. though not as nicely machined as Mark's example here is an alternative if you are needing a heavy duty one......it's what M38s come stock with.
 
This one is on 'that' auction site but they show up at most swap meets.
 
 
 

Roc - thanks for the tip. Not sure I need "heavy duty", but it never hurst to use a little overkill when doing a total rebuild…


'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2015 at 6:36pm
Just wanted you to know that it was available as an off the shelf part....a little more 'precise' maybe than the standard piece. Not quite the piece the machined one is I'm sure though.
 
 
 
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'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb. 2015 at 4:24am
Thanks, Cpt Logger. for some bizarre reason I seam to have some sort of Typing impediment when it comes to contractions. I find myself leaving off the 'nt all the time especially in chat. I guess I'm some sort of idiot savant. Or maybe just an idiot LOL.  I have gone back and corrected the mistake.
 
And just so everyone is clear working with Richard on this was a joy and should I ever have another engine or gear box project I would not hesitate to have him handle the next one.


Edited by Mark W. - 06 Feb. 2015 at 5:03am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2015 at 2:49am
Mark, glad to hear that. I now know of a good shop out your way. All of the shops that I used to use out that way, have either moved, changed hands, or went out of business.

I still have friends & family asking who I would recommend for mechanical & machine work. Odd, as I have not lived in the PNW for over 25 years. 

Thanks again, Cpt Logger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2015 at 1:57am
UPDATE time. since I am a little bit short on cash to buy the last of my internal engine parts I pickled the block and head to prevent rust. It will only be a couple weeks until I can get it put together.  Just waiting on the tax refund (already been close to a week)

SO I been working on my Saginaw Steering conversion. As some of you know from my thread on Saginaw steering I am putting a Saginaw 525 24-1 6.5 turn manual box mounted with the top bolt flange right at the level of the top of the frame. This allows the input shaft to pass under the front cross member (my frame is an early CJ5 Frame) I'll be running the steering shaft so it passes just under the outside of the left motor mount. I'll use a steel coupler at the input shaft to a Double D shaft I'll machine from some nice 3/4" 1020 shaft material I have. As soon as the shaft is past the motor mount I'll run it through a Heim Bearing and then right away it will go to a U-Joint and a short section of shaft to a second U-Joint and to the end of the column just past the bearing I will mount on the firewall.

Any way enough of the plan. I will be running a strut from the housing on the output shaft on the steering box to cross over and attach to the frame rail on the opposite side. To do this I had to make a clamp to go around the housing (dang hardware store didn't even have one close) SO I scared up some 3/4" thick 1020 cold finish I had left over from some Belt grinder I used to build. And after a day and a half of head scratching this came out.





It works out pretty well I may have to slightly adjust the width of the groove the 1/2" Rod end will fit into. And I want to add a pair of little set screws to lock it in place on the housing since the housing has a slight taper (wow was that fun trying to match)

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 1:10am
Photos tomorrow but a little up date. I spent today sandblasting a few things and getting a few others painted (can't waste good weather) So now the Transmission hump cover and the two beauty rings for the shift boots are painted and ready to go when the time gets here.
 
I sandblasted and Phosphate coated the Frame to Body mount brackets I need to add to my CJ5 frame so that I have some place to bolt the tub in all the places the tub has to be bolted to the frame. The left side bracket under the tank bolt hole was missing as were the two that catch the lip at the bottom of the raiser. I still have to locate and install the two grill corner brackets. But since I currently have the frame upside down to drill holes for the Saginaw steering brace (output housing to right frame underside) I figured I would do those when I wouldn't have to stand on my head.
 
I got a nice 1/2" thick block about 1.25" wide and 4" long to weld into the frame on the right side as a captive nut for the right side of my Steering box brace. Now I have to decide if I want to buy a 1/2"-20T left hand tap so I can adjust the brace like you would a tierod. I have a few Left hand Taps but of course no 1/2" fine. Not like I'll find a lot of use for it after this brace is done.
 
I need to scare up some .375" ID steel tubing 3/4" to 1" OD to make the actual brace out of. and of course the two Rod Ends.
 
I need to locate the spacer that will go inside the frame between the boxing plate and the outside of the frame to run the one upper steering box mount bolt. Its going to be fun as its right at the very top so drilling the hole for it with the curve in the frame corner is going to require some sort of drill jig.
 
So I'll get some photos of the pretty new painted parts and the new brackets later and post them here.
 
I'm getting really close to having all of my frame modifications and fabrications done so hopefully here soon I'll be getting everything welded up. I heard a rumor that my drivers bonus at work should be given out next week so I'll be able to have the welding done then off to the sand blaster and after a weekend away from home I can get some Paint on the frame and start building a Willys.
 
Should be getting on assembling the engine within the next week or two as well.
 
Going to be some dramatic changes once that frame gets painted.
 
 
 
 


Edited by Mark W. - 15 Feb. 2015 at 1:31am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 3:43am

I hesitate to ask but why would it need to be adjusted?

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 4:11am
Oh actually a good question. The clamp tightens by action of the 1/4"-28T socket head bolt. As it tightens the clamp around the steering box it also tightens the slot the 5/8" wide Rod end fits into. SO if tight on the clamp is to tight for the Rod end then I will mill or file a little off the sides of the slot to open it up. Adjusting it to fit the Rod end. 
I also designed the clamp so that I can also go up to a 5/16"-24T bolt should I find it needs more clamping force. I doubt it will since when its tight I can't move it rotationally with a hammer blow. And the force acting on it will be linear in line with the brace so no direct force acting on it will be trying to loosen the clamp. BUT you never know.
 
I will also have a safety washer between the clamp and the pitman arm so that should somehow the clamp come loose it wouldn't be allowed to interfere with the movement of the pitman arm.


Edited by Mark W. - 15 Feb. 2015 at 4:12pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 4:23am
Dang. I guess I really underbuilt mine.....that's alot of thinking, hope mine never loosens up.
 
 
 
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zuma58 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 5:01pm
I had everything done by Washougal Classic Jeep in Washougal WA. I couldn't be happier with how Richard handled my engine and rebuilt my gear boxes. So at the point of a guy who just picked up his stuff I couldn't be happier. He's very good at what he does. I have seen his finished restoration work and its very nice.

Anyone in the area would be ahead to talk to Richard if they need an Engine machined or (this is his specialty) Gear boxes rebuilt. www.washougalclassicjeep.com IMHO

Mark, is this the Richard in Washougal who has a jeep junk yard? I haven't met him yet but have talked to him on the phone a few times, I am looking for a better tub and it sounds like he may have a few. I need to get up to his place and take a look, I didnt know hw does machine work as well, this is cool!

Edited by Zuma58 - 15 Feb. 2015 at 5:03pm
Steve
Long May You Run!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2015 at 9:28pm
Zuma I don't know if you would call what Richard has a junk yard I would say the majority of the 20 or so Jeeps around his place are possible projects. But we didn't really talk about what used parts he might sell.

I will say he's connected to everyone from his machinist to doing parts testing for OMIX-ADA so if you need something he's an excellent place to start looking. Let him know I recommended him. I promised him I wouldn't stop talking about him.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:09am
OK a Bunch of Steering box mount photos. I mounted it lower then some guys do. But I wanted it to run under the motor mount instead of through it or above it. And I didn't want to cut into my cross member. This way its a nice straight line to pass just under the motor mount. A simple spline to 3/4" DD coupler will attach the Shaft to the box. Past the motor mount it will go through a frame mounted bearing and then to a U-Joint and a short section of shaft then another U-Joint and to the bottom of the column. This should give me about a 22.5-25 degree angle on the U-Joints well under the 30 degrees they are rated for so no problems with binding. There will be a firewall mounted bearing at the bottom of the column. So the column will be very well supported at the same time the 3 piece shaft will have a safety effect as it can't push into the drivers chest in a wreck.

I need to figure out the bolt for the top ear of the box (I have a temp made from some all thread in the photos) I want some sort of button head because the tire might get close to the frame in that area.  The curve of the frame is so close it makes a clean bolt head a problem. There's a hidden spacer inside the frame to hold the boxing steel or the frame from being crushed by the bolt. And another that spaces the boxing plate near the cross member.  It will be welded in place on the outside of the frame where it steps down to pass through the frame. I might end up using a Socket head nut on the upper steering box bolt its really hard to get a wrench on it.

Anyway enjoy feel free to critique and ask questions.





How do you like my taped on Motor Mount. Remember this is a CJ5 Frame so the left motor mount was not setup for a 2A engine mount plate. Originally it was a cobbled up mess. I got a proper 2A mount mount a while back and cleaned it all up and will be welding it in its proper place.


Thinking about drilling a couple drain holes in the bottom of the frame horns to help with drainage. I might also just notch the boxing plates. I don't want water to get trapped.



Yes that is Original Black paint on the frame along with Orange over spray from dads paint job.


This shows the Right frame mount for the steering box brace. Inside the frame is a block of 1020 steel threaded for the two mounting bolts and the 1/2" bolt that will anchor the Rod end on this end of the brace.




Bonus Fat guy working on Body mount brackets Photo feel free to download and print a personal copy for your shop wall. Please no poster sized prints I sell those.



Later,


Edited by Mark W. - 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:26am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote windyhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:35am
Ha! nice shot.Clap  I used the same box on my 3b setup, I like the feel of a Manuel box.  Question, do you have any play in the box? Mine only has about 2000 miles on it but if I can rotate the shaft about 3/16" back and fourth without my pitman arm moving?  I'm wondering if I got a bad box or if it can be adjusted.  I did mess with the screw on top but it didn't seem to help.

My mount is very similar to yours, and I to mounted it so the shaft would just clear the crossmember (a little diff as I have a tube crossmember on the 3B) Looks good!


Edited by windyhill - 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:41am
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'65 CJ5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 3:50am
Windy Speedway motors has a page on adjusting the boxes let me find it for you. Mine is pretty tight I expect to have to loosen it a little bit. My box was NOS when I bought it had never been installed. I have a really nice used one as well I am keeping as a back up or for a future project.

Saginaw 525 instructions

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-32204.pdf

Hope it helps
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote windyhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2015 at 5:07pm
Thanks. I get a little bit of "death wobble over 45mph sometimes and everything else seams tight.  I'll try the instructions and adjust it a bit it's been a while. 

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'53 CJ3B
'59 CJ6
'65 CJ5
'67 CJ5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2015 at 3:53am
SO not really an up date but I am not sure what else to call it.

I'll take another couple days but I think I have run out of stuff to get ready for the welder to come work on all the stuff on my frame.

If I can't come up with anything else to do soon. I'm going to call him make and appointment Buy him a couple cases of beer and then the day before he shows up I am going to sand blast every joint I want him to weld up. So its super clean for him. Then I have to figure out what order to do everything so nothing ends up welded behind a boxing plate or something.

Then a day or two to smooth some of the welds and it will be ready for the sand blaster and Paint.

Hey I guess I need to buy the POR-15 I decided that using 15+ year old unopened POR-15 just isn't worth the risk. And I'll need to lay in a supply of Primer and the Chassis Black I want to use.

In about 3 weeks I could actually be starting assembly. Instead of working on parts and pieces.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2015 at 5:29pm
That is good news! I like your style. Keep up the good work, & thanks for sharing. 
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