A little project update on Chug A Lug |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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[QUOTE=Mark W.]
YEA some nice guy at Grizzly tools after making sure I knew that if their lathe wasn't the same as my lathe and the parts did not fit I would have to pay a 10% restocking fee (if they don't fit I'll either modify them or toss them) He then proceeded to tell me that had all the parts I wanted in stock. Total cost with shipping and handling would be like $31.00 YEA and they should be here in less then a week Double YEA. I also found Grizzly to be a nice company to deal with and I like their tools and prices. I have an older 9" Grizzly lathe/milling machine combo and the split nut stripped out on the lead screw, ordered it on line and had it in a couple days. Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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Well I drive truck as well. an 18 spd Road Ranger these days. Some of you most likely don't remember what my actual shifter looks like so here's a Photo. It looks slightly different in that now there is a 1.25" extension to the Cane with a corresponding Micarta tube between the body and the base of the Mushroom knob. And the Knob on the electrical switch (used to activate my Locker) is now matching the other knobs I will be using which look a LOT like original Willys knobs. The Tee handle is my hand throttle. top of the Mushroom is like 2" D
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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Did you make the T handle? Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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No that is something from my pile of stuff not sure where it's from .
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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SO now 4+ days working on the OD and the OD linkage. I now have a
clean functional linkage made up that works pretty well. The only thing
is I have to bend my Shift Cane I made to better clear the 2wd/4wd lever
and the Huge Knob thing on the tranny Shifter. I got some photos this morning when I finished up the last connection. I wanted
to make sure it worked the way I wanted before I finalized the length of
the push/pull rod. I ended up using a Piece of 1/8" wall 3/4" angle iron for the push rod. NO FLEX I
have Hiem Style Rod ends on both ends of the linkage so they handle any
slight off angle as the Push/Pull Rod moves back and forth. I'm going to be able to bend the Cane to closely match my Tranny Shift Cane (which is a little unique I think dad modified it) I'll wait to do the bending until I have it installed with the tub in place so I can see how it interacts with the switches on the dash and most important the E Brake handle. MY Red Shift Ball is supposed to arrive today but with Christmas who knows. Anyway some photos. First up my new poster for the shop Overhead overall like view you can see how I tried to keep things as inline as possible View from the front Linkage at the bottom of the shift cane. Can't see it but the block that steps the linkage from the 3/16" T tool steel plate thats attached at the Hiem Joint to the Angle Iron pushrod has a curved cut in it to clear the Boss on the transfer case. I could have notched the transfercase but that would have been more work and less joe pro. OD end of the Pushrod. I could have welded the steel tube to the angle iron but then if something warped or broke I would be stuck having to have a welder to fix it. Between the tube and the Heim joint is a piece of G8 Threaded rod cut from a bolt. And a couple of nylon washers to allow me to get the angle on the Heim joint just right. I miss calculated the clearance over the OD case when I made the little block that slips over the Shift Rod on the OD unit so had to add 3) washers to get the clearance I wanted. OH WELL. End view on the little block The 1/4"NF button head goes through the original clevis pin hole and is threaded into the block. And I'll throw this one in as well. My Brake light switch. Seams to work pretty good. Not sure how much gear oil I will loose out this one port without a cap on it maybe I can put some neoprene foam in there to slow it down. OH and another bonus photo MONSTER CLUTCH the optional 9.25" I scrounged all the parts to be able to use. Edited by Mark W. - 24 Dec. 2018 at 6:44pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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For the reverse light switch, couldn't you machine a cover for both "holes" and thread it for the switch that way it is all sealed?
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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The 2nd/3rd Shift rod is enclosed with one of the stock mini freeze plug like caps. And the Rev/1st rod comes close enough to the end of the tube that only the very end of the switch is inside the tube. When the Rod is in the reverse position the Shift Rod is almost flush with the end of the tube. The seal would have to be between the top of the switch (the button like head) and the wall of the tube and there just isn't room. I'm not to worried about how much gear oil might escape it will be minimal. That does bring up something else though. I'll do a post in general to talk about it though.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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Dennis I actually went back and looked and there is not a cap on either side nor is there space for a cap on either side in the rear of the Shift rods. I have some spare caps and they are much to big for the rear. look like they would fit perfect in front. Except Richard Darr who built my Transmission for me already has them installed.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Can you cut in an oring on the very end of the shift rail and keep it off the detente. Should solve any leaking issues. Or you could center drill the rail for a smaller rod that would protrude through drilled plug.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I’m interested to see if all that linkage will fit under the tub. Mine rubs and I have the flimsy, skinny flat stock rod that Herm sent me.
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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Yea not going to worry about the tiny bit of leakage at the rear of the shift rods. smfulle That has been a BIG worry all along this process. I do have one thing going for me though. I am doing what amounts to a 1/4" to 5/16" body lift on my tub due to using Polyurethane body pucks. Also my OD shift Cane is mounted about an 1/8" lower then the Herm Linkage plus my Moment (the distance from the pivot point to pivot point) on the bottom of the arm is almost 1/4" lower that may help some as well. I made a Backup light switch for Mike S that is the same switch held in the same position (the bracket is slightly different shape. And I know he said he had no trouble with clearance for it. And my pushrod is at least 1/4" below the switch. Like anything that is a one off prototype I won't know until its all assembled if its going to work. But like I say some of this would be near impossible to create once the Jeep is together. So I do my best if it doesn't fit then I guess I either shim the Tranny cross member or add to my tub lift. Or figure out another way to do something I have already done twice (this is the second version of the linkage. Edited by Mark W. - 24 Dec. 2018 at 10:46pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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Hey be sure to read up the page I been adding a lot of stuff last couple days My OD shift ball came in LATE last night. SO since we take a break from the Kids place between Breakfast/opening presents and dinner I figured I would see how it looked. Well of course like all these plastic balls it had a nice sharp mold line running around the center. A few min on the lathe with some 400 grit sand paper and the ridge was gone a little while longer with 800 grit and it looked pretty smooth and then I took it to my Buffing machine (wall mounted 8" fully cotton buff with some green rouge and that got it nice and smooth. Then I put it back on the lathe and polished it out with some Novus Plastic polish. I found a brass compression fitting nut to modify so I could get the ball down tight without having to cut off any the threads I made on the Cane. SO this is how it came out the Red turned Orange which I like since I will have some Orange accents on CHUG (Seat Belts, Pipping on Seats, Stripe on Wheels) and now OD shift Knob. I have figured out where I will bend the Shift Cane when the time comes (still want to check E-Brake location etc.) The tape is the upper end of the bend and where I will turn the Cane straight up so it mimics the Tranny shifter I had a little freak out. I thought ok I have time to get ready to assemble the Tranny mount and get setup to attach it to the Cross member. SO out come the little box with the complete Engine and Tranny mounting kit I bought maybe 12 years ago. And I dump the box out and WHAT is that? No way that huge Transmission mount will fit on my T-90. SO I start looking at photos on line. And realize I am missing a piece of the mount a Plate that goes between the Tranny and the Top of the Rubber mount!!!!! DANG IT all the left over and unused pieces are packed away in buckets and Milk Crates piled up so they will be out of my way. PITA to dig all that out hoping to find that plate. Then I start looking at the various shelves and nooks and crannies I have finished (read clean and painted) parts. And right there with about a 1/16" of Dust on it is the Plate all nice and painted LOL. OK next crisis bring it on.
Edited by Mark W. - 25 Dec. 2018 at 10:06pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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NOT my best morning. I might have help to put the tranny etc on the engine this weekend so I thought I would hurry up and get the engine set into the chassis (its bee sitting here on supports attached to the cherry picker for more then a week all ready) Thats when things went SOUTH First thing I see is the Left Bell housing mounting ear is VERY CLOSE to the front Master Brake Cyl reservoir banjo fitting. In fact it might be to close depending on the angle the back of the engine ends up when the tranny is sitting on the cross member. I'll have to loosen the right motor mount to allow the back of the engine a little right cant to even allow the tranny to slip in place. If it turns out I have interference I'm not real sure how to fix it without rebuilding the whol fancy clutch and brake set up I built. I can do some wiggling by how the Banjo is pointed and thats about it. I may be screwed. The other problem is much easier to deal with. The fancy spin on oil filter setup I made putting the filter down low on the right side. Has the Filter right directly over top of the Front axle U-Joint Yoke with less clearance then the distance between the Bumper pad on the axle and the Rubber bumper on the frame. So if I slam down hard on the front end the bottom of the filter would be hit by the U-Joint yoke and I'll be it wouldn't make out well. This can easily be fixed with a couple of Aluminum parts allowing the Filter to mount about 2.5" higher then it is now. I might end up loosing the little brace that went to one of the Oil pan bolts in the process but I can live with that. I'm thinking this is the part of the Hot Rod show on TV they don't show the viewers! OK back to fixing before I have to get to the drinking part of this episode.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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OK Oil Filter problem solved. I basically raised it to a point there is now almost 5/8" more clearance between the bottom of the filter and the corner of the Front axle Yoke then the clearance between the Bumper pad on the axle and the Rubber bumper on the frame. More then enough safety IMHO. Cause if I hit hard enough to compress that 1" thick Polyurethane bumper 5/8's of an inch the engine might just fall out the bottom of the chassis. The clearance between the Front Master Cylinder Banjo fitting and the lower left mounting ear on the Block/Bellhousing I'm just not sure of the distance I would have to move the Master Cylinder to be outside of the ear is just not possible. I could move the Master Cylinder forward even more but this would just cause multiple other problems. I'm going to see how it plays out once the Bellhousing Tranny etc is mounted up. Unless the engine raises up higher then it is now I will be OK TIGHT but OK. Hopefully I can get the tranny in the chassis this weekend and see what the deal is. Fiddle fart pop what fun. Momma told me not to go customizing it would catch up with me some day LOL. OH P.S. I figured out how to keep my fancy shift knobs from getting dinged up while working around them. I'm going to pickup a couple pairs of little kids socks and use them like Golf Club covers so I don't have to repaint the Knobs (like I just did)
Edited by Mark W. - 28 Dec. 2018 at 8:04pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3654 |
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Don't lose faith in your work.
I'm working on refurbishing a very early Hollywood Kustom for a show in a few months, and the quality of your work is far better than anything I've seen so far. I waste far too much time watching programs on the new Motor Trend channel that are nothing but commercials from self centered well funded individuals with crappy ideas and no talent. I wonder how many thousands of cutoff wheels, thousands of gallons of Bondo, and hundred of sheets of medium density fiber board they go through in a year. All the important stuff arrives in boxes ready to bolt on... |
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jalbrecht55
Member Joined: 29 Apr. 2013 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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I had a similar issue with the MC brake banjo fitting not having enough space. I ended up finding a large threaded brake fitting that fit the MC and also worked with my 3/16” brake line. I found it in the premade brake line selection at Napa.
I found that I had to reposition my dual MC multiple times as I assembled my chassis. First I had to reposition to work around my Ross steering box (not an issue for you), and again to not interfere with the belhousing/engine ear, and yet again to get the pedals lined up close enough to the body tub holes. And when it was all said and done the hat channel on the tub slightly overhung the MC making it very hard to remove the MC cover.
2nd item maybe you mentioned this and I missed it, but does your oil filter adapter have a flow restriction/orifice in it? (Hopefully yes). |
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'47 Willys CJ-2A -- - www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690670
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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My Oil filter is a Bypass style it works exactly the same as the canister type that almost all of our 134L had. Mine is just basically the last filter setup used on 134F's In the stock position the filter was mounted upside down in the same place it is on a 134L. Since I don't have a Generator it allows me to use that space for the filter. I buy special NAPA #1704 or #1050 filters. The normal Chevy Ford Dodge filters won't even fit the spin on adapter I am using which I got from Walcks as a replacement for the 134F set up. So my answer is yes LOL
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7980 |
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And Thanks Joe I won't be giving up I might be loosing some hair. SOME HOW this Jeep is going to be back on the road by the end of summer. Money is no longer a condition of the rate I can get stuff done. I got the money I need in the bank. If I don't head back to 65 hour weeks before April I should be down to the little stuff by then. Time to get back in the shop.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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