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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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LuzonRed47 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan. 2019 at 12:44pm
Truly a thing of beauty, thanks for sharing Mark.
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334
CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive
1953 Strick M100 trailer
Serial #18253
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Craig M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Craig M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan. 2019 at 3:04pm
Mark have you ever thought of running a coolant line through the intake to us as a body warmer a lot of snowmobiles have one with a valve on them to control carb icing issues. looking bad to the bone
hoping I can get one of those custom header flanges.
 
Snojet slice & dice on the ice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan. 2019 at 3:54pm
The manifold is made from one designed for a MG 1500cc engine. It was a closest thing I could find to something that would fit a 134L. I had to made it approx. 7/16" wider between ports and then make the top plates to deal with having screwed up the carb mounting hole placement. Then I had to add a bunch of material around one side of the mounting flanges to be able to reshape it into what would work on the 134L. I then added a pair of 1/8NPT ports to the spacer that I used to widen it for my Vacuum gauge and PCV. I never liked the idea of having the PCV air running into just one side. Kind of unbalances the mixture having oil fumes on one side and not the other.

I wasted a huge amount of time working on a DIY manifold before I happened upon this solution. Maybe as much as two full weeks when you include the design and planning part. But I now have a really cool 1/4" thick aluminum box with two big holes in it so it can't hold anything to sit on my aluminum scrap pile LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2019 at 12:21am
WOW this third section of the header where two pipe go under the cross member and two go up over it while having to gain either 4" or 51/2" depending on which tube is kicking my butt. I ave made 3+ mockups and its just to hard to guess at the fine angles. I think I am going to have to dive in and start tacking things together and see where it ends up. Nightmare.

back later

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan. 2019 at 3:03am
Sometimes I am my own worst enemy. I jigged up the top section of the Header this morning and before I knew what I was doing I had started to tack weld the tubes together. Then before I knew what was happening I had #1 tube out of the jig was finish welding it and after looking at my beautiful mess. I went right into the grinding room and threw a new 80 grit belt on the 2 x 72 Belt Grinder (one of the machines I used to make hand made knives way back in the day) And I had most of the weld ground off. I touched up a couple spots and then went to a 220 grit belt. Looking pretty good.

SO then I switch to a little file work and strips of 150 and 220 grit sand paper run over the tubing like I was shining shoes. Then to the 180 grit flap sander to blend.

Came out looking pretty dang good. A couple little pin pricks a few thousands deeper then the surface. But nothing to bad. I might go back and spot them in.

And pretty soon I had tube #2 pretty much done. Again with a little stuff to back fill.

And now my Back is screaming obscenities in at least three unknown languages. I do get the jest of whats its trying to say.

I figured I could screw around trying to find someone to pretty weld this up or I could just fall back on my skills (after all if I can grind a $1000.00 Knife out of Stainless Tool Steel how hard can it be to grind some welds on tubing and not go past 18ga LOL. SO I'm doing just that.

I'll put up photos tomorrow if unless I can't get out of bed tomorrow (not good to work on belt grinder on DRUGS) A hot shower a half a muscle relaxer and I should be able to finish the other two tomorrow.

Pretty sure I will need to grab some more welding gas its always something.

Once I have this first section of the Header done I can then attach the 2nd section and get under and see where I have to go and just start building towards the back of the chassis. Trying to guess how everything was going to fit was headed me to trouble.

This is just as much fun as I thought it would be. LOL 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2019 at 4:07am
OK so my back is done as are the top section tubes for the header I need to grab some more Welding gas to start putting the flanges on.

Here's a couple snaps of what they look like




I  think I am going to hit a couple spots tomorrow where I have tiny spots in the surface. Not for cosmetic reasons but just in case there is a flaw in the weld. I have to be real careful not to chew up any more tubing thickness grinding.

Right now they are at a 220 grit finish which is where they will stay. I will most likely put some cheap BBQ paint on them to protect them while I finish building and get CHUG running then soon as winter hits and I am busy building the aluminum hard top I'll send them off to Jet Hot.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2019 at 4:09am
Oh and that old thing about if you need a grinder your not a good welder. Cause as good as I am grinding I can be almost any kind of welder LOL. 14 Years of grinding and finishing Hand Made knives finally paid off.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2019 at 6:51am
I touched up the welds on my Header Primary Tubes. Then I ground them smooth again, then I flap sanded them to blend the 220 grit grinding belt marks, then I went to strips of 220 grit sand paper and hand sanded then until they are as good as my back can handle.

I then put every thing back in the Jig I set up and commenced to very nicely weld the 4 in line flange on the bottom of the tubes backwards!!!!!!! Never knew it until I went to bolt up the bottom half of the Primary's and the holes wouldn't line up. %&@_$&$^%%%!@+#)**** Good thing I just have the bottom section pressure fit together I can flip the Bottom part of the Flange around (should only take 20 min) Tomorrow I should be closer to having the third section of the Primary tubes figured out. I bolted up the bottom section where all the tubes make a 90 and head for the back of the Chassis. And while I do have to put a couple 45 degree bends in #1 and #2 to get them to line up They are pretty much at exactly the right height I should be able to keep about 1/4" clearance with the bottom of the Transmission cross member and still stay at or above the level of the skid plate. I have toyed with the Idea of putting an Exhaust skid plate between the frame and the Tranny skid plate. But I seriously doubt I will do it.

I'm going to have to go back and make a couple of 2 hole flanges so I can take the #3 and #4 tubes apart since two of the tubes go up over the cross member. This part will not be a lot of fun.

OK more photos when something cool or different happens.

I have to work most of if not all of next week so I guess  CHUG is going to have to wait for more attention. Hopefully I'll get some good hours I could use a few bucks in the Willys fund.


Edited by Mark W. - 26 Jan. 2019 at 6:59am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepN95YJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2019 at 1:20pm
Awesome work! I love learning how people use their skills to complete their projects
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2019 at 5:36pm
OK woke up this morning and a HUGE problem popped into my head. The calculator I used on line to guesstimate the length of my primary tubes. Gave me 1.09" ID x 56" long tubes. So this morning I got to thinking how would that relate as far as volume go compared to my 1.375" ID x 48-50" tubes. Turns out I am going to be WAY long. My Primary's should be closer to 34-35" long SO now I have to figure out how to gain 5.5" on one of the tubes and almost 4" on the other and do it all before the Tranny crossmember.

The first section of tubes are 15.09" (#2 & #3) and 15.84" (#1 & #2) And since the tubes are stacked wrong # 1 and #2 are together as they head away from the 90 degree turn and #3 and #4 are together But they need to be #2 and #3 then #1 and #4 as they enter the 2 into 1 collectors.

Looks like I have a bunch more figuring out to do. I knew going at this one section at a time was going to be the only way to not totally screw up.

Wish there was a TRI Y guru to ask questions. I got a Question floating out on the H.A.M.B. discussion board so maybe someone knows something that will help.

Back later off to cuss up a stream and pull my hair out YEA
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Craig M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2019 at 7:57pm
I think it should pull good
Snojet slice & dice on the ice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2019 at 1:05am
OK Interesting day so far. I think I taped together about 15 different ways to try to get what I needed to make Tubes #1 and #4 the same length and both as close to 35" as I could get them. Right now they are 35.385" and 36" I can easily trim to a final length should I decide to go closer to the 34-35" idea. But the differential of .615 is going to remain the same. I can live with that. .615 into 35" is only a  1.75% pretty dang close.

I also went and figured where the 1.75" OD Secondary tubes would have to travel since now the pair of 2 into 1 collectors are well ahead of the tranny cross member. And that look like I will have to 45 degree them both out towards the Frame rail but that they should with little trouble run above the Skid plate Height. I will then 45 degree them back towards the center of the Chassis ahead of the Spring Hanger bracket where they will meet in the last 2 into 1 collector and turn into the 2.25" OD Tail Pipe to go up over the Axle and then make a right turn to the Muffler and on out the right side.

An interesting side effect of having to do this moves the #4 tube much farther away from the MC then before. As in order to gain the length I needed to balance them I had to actually head the tube towards the front of the Chassis for a couple inches before looping it back. So right at the 4 in line flange its pretty close (about .75" ) to the very end of the MC but right away the Tube itself turns almost directly away from the MC. I am sure this will help heat management.

The tubes are also quite a ways below the MC more then 4" which is pretty good.

I've been looking at various exhaust systems mostly on CJ5's with V8's and most of them appear to hang lower then what mine will. Also looking at the MB style exhaust where the muffler sits under the Pass seat I'll be higher then that.

Like I said earlier I had maybe two minor scratches on my Skid plate when I pulled it. And I don't plan any rock crawling past the stuff I did in High School so I think I will be OK. I know it will be well able a Stock Side step.

It's amazing all the variables I'm having to take into consideration as I attempt this. The next step is to do the same thing with Tubes #2 and #3 and one of the things that has popped up to worry about is the Front Spring Hanger Bolt and Nuts which seam to want in on the fun. SO I have to work around them. Luckily I think I am going to take #2 and #3 out of the 4 in line flange and run them towards the center of the Chassis I seam to have the most room to maneuver that direction. I am pretty sure I will end up with an imbalance in the length of the secondary tubes. But its my understanding that has much less effect on my performance hopes then uneven Primary tubes would have.

I will have time to wait for some 1.75" OD Bends to show up since I am working next week. Sadly they are making us park our trucks at the gravel pit we are hauling rock from so that screws me out of about 2 hours a day I get to sit in the crummy with a bunch of other smelly guys arguing about the heater.  OH well I can bore the crap out of them showing photos and talking about CHUG after years of they actually warn the new guys not to ask me about my Jeep LOL.

Or they tell the new guy to ask me and then laugh their asses off while I bend some kids ear for 4 hours.

MAN I can't wait to get to that simple Tail Pipe LOL.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2019 at 1:29am
My grandfather used to work for the UP railroad and the crumb box was a caboose.
Not to send you off but some headers run different length pipes to increase scavenging.
uncamonkey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2019 at 4:58am
This could be true but the kind of Headers that do that are not TRI Y. so not for me to worry about.

SO I got a little extra shop time tonight as the wife was out with the son and daughter playing Harry Potter at some party at a Restaurant (way not my thing) So I now have 3) of my 4 tubes within .615" inches of each other satisfactory clearance from the Oil Pan, MC, Front Spring Hanger Bolt, Frame, and what ever else wants to be in my way. I have plenty of clearance to angle the 1.75" tubes coming off the little 2 to 1 collectors out towards the Frame and under the Cross Member. I should with a little luck have that fourth tube figured out by lunch tomorrow.

Looks like I still have about $100 in materials before I am to the end of the tail pipe. I have a small Muffler that I'm going to use to start I might upgrade depending on the sound etc.

I over bought based on thinking I needed to go up over the cross member with two of the tubes. So I'll have a few spares of the 1.5" Bends.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2019 at 8:37pm
OMG what a PITA I am working on the last tube trying to get it to match the other 3 in length (within say .5 to .75") and I can either end up 3" to long or 2-3" to short. I know there has to be a combination of curves and straight sections that will end up where I need to go but dang is it hard to find. Been at it 3.5 hours already. I guess I have all the time I need. I really want this to work out. The other three are within .615" of each other. Anyone got a tub designing computer with nothing to do?


Being restricted to the 2.5" center line radius of my tubing is a fun limiting factor. As is everything in the way. I have to take the tubing out to the engine side of the flange which is where the tubes for #3 and #4 are I can't take it to the left as that puts it in the path of the front left spring. And I can only go so far towards the center without getting to close to the oil pan.

I think I know why know one else has done this before.


Time for lunch then I think I will go beat on the Chimney I am removing upstairs to make more room in the wifes crafts room. Maybe swinging a hammer will help.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2019 at 12:14am
Originally posted by Mark W. Mark W. wrote:

Maybe swinging a hammer will help.

It will if it’s big enough 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan. 2019 at 12:27am
Well I'm done swingin the hammer and all it did was make my back hurt more. I have now tried 3 or 4 more attempts at that damn tube. I got another route in mind maybe after a beer and some Pain pills I'll go try again.

Good news Kind of. Is the dispatcher brought over the maps for our rock haul I got roped into for next week and its a decent drive. Some nice long stretches so that will be nice. And its supposed to run all week so should be at least 40 hours so take homes about $150 more then my unemp check! OH well it will put more in the 401K and make a loan payment (I can borrow against my 401K and I get the interest on the loan) Maybe a Week away from CHUG will help and Once I get this FRECKING tube figured out I will need to wait for the 1.75" and 2.25" OD bends to show up before I finish the exhaust out anyway.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1988YJ7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2019 at 1:40am
All I can say is Amazing!
I know you'll figure out the exhaust issues just like you have every other one off part you've created on this rig and I'm looking forward to the finished product.

Keep the cards and letters coming, and as everyone else has already said, keep the PICs coming.
Matt Miller
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