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'48 CJ2A #204853, Pietermaritzburg, South Africa

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Mike F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct. 2018 at 2:24pm
Hope you can start the new year driving it. From all I’ve seen it will as nice as any around. your craftsmanship and attention to detail is at a high level. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov. 2018 at 4:16pm
I picked up some painted parts this weekend from the painter! There were a few scuff marks on the windshield inner frame, so he agreed to keep that and touch it up. I still walked away with the windshield outer frame, the grill and some smaller parts like the hood rain gutter.

I spent a happy day reassembling some parts onto the windshield frame like cowl seal, canvas top 1/4 turn fasteners, inner frame bumper stops etc, and also the headlights and park lights into the grill. 

Normandy Blue is one of those colours that looks different in different light conditions! It can look almost black in low light conditions, but in bright sunlight or with a camera flash the blue really comes through. 

Here is the grill as it currently sits on the frame:



When I use the camera flash the colour changes to this:



Love the contrast with the Luzon Red wheels!

Thanks for checking in...

Mike
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov. 2018 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:


Thanks for checking in...


Thanks for letting us in Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2018 at 2:59am
I cannot wait to see this Jeep when it's all together.  Blue is my favorite color, and Normandy blue is probably my favorite shade of my favorite color!  Thumbs Up  Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 3:16pm
I've been ticking away on a few things while I wait for more body parts to be painted.

 I don't have access to the world famous Grill Welt Pliers Exchange Programme, so I deviated from "factory correct" and went with countersunk machine screws. I think they will do their job just fine.





While I am waiting for more painting to be finished, I decided to tackle a job I have been putting off for some time. When my jeep was together and being test driven before being stripped for paint, I noticed that my fuel tank was seeping through pinholes in the metal, and causing the paint to bubble on the outside. The pinholed section was the rear facing vertical side panel. 



The obvious solution would be to line and seal the tank, but some PO had already done or tried this, and done a poor job. The lining was failing and coming off in sheets internally. I knew this because I had retrieved pieces of lining from the sender unit hole while I was previously cleaning it out. I don't think it would work to try and re-line over a lining that is already failing. 

I thought about a new tank altogether, but at $500, it is a bit pricey. 
$200 new tank
$200 shipping
$100 import tax and duties Ouch

My only solution was to try and cut my existing tank open, and gain access to the inside to clean the old lining out, repair the pinhole section, and reline and re-seal afresh.

I cut open the pinholed panel, as I figured this was the worst panel anyway.



You can see where the liner is cracked and flaking off the inside of the tank. It wasn't doing much sealing in that condition. And the fuel was then seeping out the pin-holes!

You can see also where some sealer had never been applied on the top of the tank.
Interesting to see the pickup tube as well in the inverted bend so that you are not drawing muck directly down from where it might be sitting on the bottom of the tank.

I had to cut out the mid way baffle as well, to get to the portion of the tank behind that. Then it was down to chipping out the liner. MAN WAS THIS TOUGH! The deeper you get the less angle you have to work with. Some came off in sheets, but much of it was properly adhered and had to be chipped off piece by piece. It took me the whole day, but I have most of it off now.




Clearly the tank was rusting behind the liner. I now get the chance to clean that up too, which I have started.

This is where I am at now.



I'm just going by feel on this. I've never done a repair like this before.

I need to finish the interior cleaning and final prep work, then roughen up the interior with sandpaper to accept new lining. I've found the correct stuff and ordered it. Then I'll have to make and weld in some internal braces to somewhat replace the interior baffle I cut out. I'm thinking 4 x smaller braces rather than 1 large sheet as before. Then I'll paint in a first coat of liner, say 2/3 the way up the tank. This will give me the best chance of making sure I get into all the nooks and crannies with a nice even coat. Then fabricate and weld in my end piece. Then do a last coat of liner, poured in the filler neck and swilled around the tank as evenly as I can. Concentrating on the end piece that is receiving its first coat, but the rest will get a second coat that won't harm it.

That's my plan, and i'm committed now cos the tank is cut open! LOL

I hope that it all works out as I am planning. Otherwise it is back to the $500 new tank option. Ouch Man I'm hoping that's not required....

Thanks for checking in. More as it happens!
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 3:48pm
Mike,
I don't really understand all this stuff, but I thought that part of the baffles job was to keep the fuel from all going to one side of the tank in an off camber or steep climbing situation and causing the pickup tube to suck air. 



Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 6:06pm
My experience with "Kreme" and similar gas-tank liners is, if the tank is much larger than a small or medium-sized (1.5 to 4 gallon) motorcycle tank, and/or has extensive internal baffling, then it's a coin toss as to the liner material really coating all surfaces and doing its job. There's also the question of the tank liner's integrity against the new gasoline blends. Cutting out one of the tank panels, as was done here, really shows inconsistency of this stuff in doing its intended job. Fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump required!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 9:55pm
I've had really good look with Red Kote. It stays flexible and has done a good job with the tanks I've done. 

I've used the cream stuff too. But I found it worked better with small motorcycle tanks without baffles. 

Take a look at Red Kote if you can get it. I like the stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 2:56am
I wonder if you could galvanize it somehow.  On the other hand, if you can weld it back together right now, why worry about rust?  Next time it starts to leak, cut it open, replace the bad metal, and weld it up again.  That'll be in, what? Thirty years or so?  Smile

I'm really liking that blue!  Thumbs Up

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 8:36am
Thanks guys for comments and input. It's good to get a different perspective and to have your thinking challenged!

Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Mike,
I don't really understand all this stuff, but I thought that part of the baffles job was to keep the fuel from all going to one side of the tank in an off camber or steep climbing situation and causing the pickup tube to suck air. 

I've thought about this a lot overnight Stan. Yes, I did lie awake for an hour or two. Thanks a lot! Wink

The way I see it is this: the baffle is installed from left to right across the tank. Lets assume a low tank level, say only 1/4 full....  on a severe right lean the fuel would run to the RHS of the tank which is where the pickup is located anyway - so no specific benefit. On a severe left lean the fuel might run away from the pickup, but the left/right baffle would not help this, so no benefit either. On a severe upwards angle (hillclimb) the fuel would run to the back of the tank where the pickup is located, so no specific benefit here. On a severe downwards angle, the fuel would run to the front of the tank and away from the pickup. In this case the baffle might slow the rate of drain to the front of the tank because it temporarily confines the fuel to the rear portion of the tank? IDK. There are two smallish drain holes in the bottom of the baffle, one on each corner. You can see one in the pic above. These might slow the rate of drain towards the front of the tank so that you could avoid sucking air when you otherwise might have? Again, IDK. It's an interesting theory. But if the baffle was to be properly effective in this job you would think the engineers would have done the same with a right angled baffle from front to back, to similarly confine fuel to the pickup section of the tank on a severe left lean??? Seems a little silly to engineer half a benefit but ignore the other potential half of the benefit... 

How about this as a theory? The baffle obviously provides structural support. But it must also help considerably to stop the fuel sloshing around in the tank. A kind of stilling effect. And therefore help the sender to provide a more steady reading? Otherwise every slosh of petrol on an uneven road would show up as a jumping needle on the fuel gauge.

I'm not planning on doing the type of hill climbing and rock hopping that you are fond of. So I might try and enclose the sender unit in some kind of 3 sided baffle to minimise the float jumping around on the road, but I'm not going to go to town on trying to minimise the fuel draining away from the pickup on a camber. To get any benefit here you will need a full width baffle with small drain holes to really restrict fuel flow within the tank, and this means my re-lining efforts will suffer due to me not having access to the other side of the baffle - and that is my primary goal right now.

Make sense?

Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:

My experience with "Kreme" and similar gas-tank liners is, if the tank is much larger than a small or medium-sized (1.5 to 4 gallon) motorcycle tank, and/or has extensive internal baffling, then it's a coin toss as to the liner material really coating all surfaces and doing its job. There's also the question of the tank liner's integrity against the new gasoline blends. Cutting out one of the tank panels, as was done here, really shows inconsistency of this stuff in doing its intended job. Fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump required!

All valid points. The stuff i'm planning on using is designed for lining of industrial fuel tanks, so it is up to snuff. If I minimise the internal baffles I will also have access to the inside of the tank for most of the first coat, so I can ensure full coverage with a brushed on coat! I can also ensure proper surface cleaning and prep. You have to wonder how many linings fail through lack of access to ensure proper surface cleaning and surface prep. All of these issues are addressed now that I have access to the inside of the tank. For my final coat on the welded in section, the product can be thinned up to 20%, which I plan on doing. This will really help to get full cover when I swill it around in the closed tank. Or so I hope Big smile

In South Africa we do not have blended fuel, so that is not a consideration (for now). 

I have a filter between the tank and pump, and another ceramic element glass bowl Carter between the pump and carb. I'm not planning on removing either. Apart from their obvious use, I think they look too cool!

Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

I've had really good look with Red Kote. It stays flexible and has done a good job with the tanks I've done. 

I've used the cream stuff too. But I found it worked better with small motorcycle tanks without baffles. 

Take a look at Red Kote if you can get it. I like the stuff.

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don't think it is available here. And I've already ordered my stuff. I'm hoping that with the thinning of up to 20% allowed, it will flow around the entire tank nicely. The two coat system I'm planning on gives me two chances to get full coverage!

Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

I wonder if you could galvanize it somehow.  On the other hand, if you can weld it back together right now, why worry about rust?  Next time it starts to leak, cut it open, replace the bad metal, and weld it up again.  That'll be in, what? Thirty years or so?  Smile

I'm really liking that blue!  Thumbs Up

I admire your optimism Mike. But without a lining why wouldn't it start rusting from week one? Wink
No, I do not want to go into this tank more than once.  If you are lining, the tank simply provides the structural support and the lining provides the seal. I don't then have to rely on my dodgy welding skills to provide a perfectly sealed seam! Remember that I had to chip off some well adhered lining that might have been sealing up some pin-holes that I might now have exposed! Can you imagine if I weld everything up and find out I have new leaks in the tank from areas that were previously sealed? Shocked

I'm going with the belt and braces approach for now, and if I do my surface prep properly and get full coverage it should last a long long time, no rust!

I'm also loving the Normandy Blue - can't wait for the rest of the body to get done!


1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec. 2018 at 3:00am
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

But without a lining why wouldn't it start rusting from week one?


That's why galvanizing would be the better way to go.  How and where to get it galvanized is a whole other issue...  Wacko
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2019 at 8:23am
A bit more progress over the December holidays when I had some leave from work. Mostly put towards getting the new engine together.

NOS cam bearing installed.
Rear cam plug installed, together with oil gallery plugs.
NOS camshaft installed.
Valves lapped. New valves and springs installed, to go with the new guides and NOS tappets and adjusters. I reused the locks and spring retainers. 

So my valve train is pretty much done and installed.

Love working with NOS parts!













I also removed the manifolds from the current engine in preparation to install them on this new engine, and that was the right time to replace the brass bush for the heat riser shaft that had fallen out. Of course this means cutting the flap off the shaft, removing flap and shaft, replacing the bush, replacing the flap and the shaft, and rewelding them. A real PITA for such a small job, but it's the only way!

My crank and flywheel had an issue where the tapered dowel bolt holes had previously either been drilled out, or is it possible that this crank and flywheel are possibly not even from a CJ2A? In any case they measured roughly 1/2" parallel sides, which meant that the tapered dowel bolts I had were useless. I ended up buying and using the special 9/16" upgrade bolts, but of course that was another 2 months wait for these bolts to arrive. They arrived in the New Year. These are being drilled and reamed now and I hope to pick it all up later today. A second issue was that the standard pilot bushing, which was also a 2 month parts order (came in with the flywheel bolts) did not fit into the hole in the centre of the flywheel! The flywheel hole was too big, so the bushing just fell through! You know the standard Willys dance right? One step forwards, two steps sideways, one step back, one step forwards....? I know that dance very well.....

So I had an oillite bushing custom made to size and installed.

Bottom line is that I finally have a crank that can be bolted to my flywheel, and the flywheel has a pilot bushing in it. Seems like those things shouldn't take more than an hour to achieve, right? It's taken me about 4 months..... LOL

If I pick up the crank/flywheel assembly later today as I hope, I will take it for balancing on Monday. Then it can all be installed over the next week or two. I am getting a lot closer to having a brand new engine to put into this project!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2019 at 10:50am
Nice work!... and yes, there is nothing like everything being new, and clean, and fitting properly... 

4 months?! Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan. 2019 at 12:17pm
4 months? Until the project is complete?

Hopefully not too far off that. I have everything I need now to finish this new engine. And I can transfer all the "peripherals" such as oil filter, manifolds, thermostat housing, oil fill tube etc etc across from the old engine to the new one. So maybe this engine will be complete by the end of January or early February, and installed in the frame.

I haven't been putting too much pressure on the guy doing my bodywork painting, because I don't want to rush him and I have have had other things to do. But I think I need to start enquiring.... I want to get the body on as soon as the engine is in!

I've just heard from the machine shop that my 9/16" reamed crank flange and flywheel are done, so I can go and pick those up after work, and get them balanced on Monday Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan. 2019 at 5:13am
Slow progress is better than no progress...  Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2019 at 11:50am
The good news is that my flywheel is on the crank with the special 9/16 bolt upgrade kit, and the crank has been balanced all the way from the crank nut on the front to the pressure plate on the flywheel at the back. I hope this will result in a nice smooth running engine!

I have one head stud thread to repair, and then I can finish the assembly of this new engine!

I have chivvied up the painter as well. Renovations to his house are complete, so no more builders dust floating around. He is working on prepping and painting this entire week!

I hope to show some real progress in the next few weeks or so...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2019 at 9:27am
More progress to date: The crank is in, rear main seal is in, all four rods and their pistons are in too. Engine turns freely!






I guess I now need to get the old engine out to get the mount plate and oil pan off. I only have one each of those. Then I can finish this one up and get it in!

On another note, I have been wondering what to do for running in oil. I finally decided to get some ZDDP additive and add it to regular engine oil to boost the zinc levels. Then I stumbled across Castrol Classic Oils - specially formulated oils for older and classic cars. Fewer of the modern detergents, higher zinc levels, and made to suit the engine manufacturing tolerances of the time. It's imported, but at least it is available here. All the other ones mentioned on this site are just not available here. 

So I bought some of their special running in oil, as well as regular SAE 30 for a few oil changes once I am up and running. They even come in the retro tins, and I got an old style 1 Qt measuring jug and funnel to complete the kit.



I'm hopeful I can get this engine in and running towards the end of the month, but with a baby on the way, work and my other hobbies, I have a lot of other things on my plate at the moment...

Thanks for checking in. 

1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2019 at 1:39pm
I LIKE those cans!

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